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RZ cylinder conversion


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Hi guys,

 

I have read almost all of the RZ350 post 's (not all because there are A LOT) and I have heard all of the arguments about wether its worth it or not and all i really want to know is if there is a step by step thread on the subject? If there isn't i have to ask why? i am considering this swap and I want to know how to do it before I dive in. I am building a trail banshee so it needs to have great lowend but I like to go fast so I need it to unwind in the fields. If there is a better/easier/cheaper way to go I will but I would really like to gain the torque I need for the woods. Please if anyone has a step by step repost it if not thanks anyway.

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Hi guys,

 

I have read almost all of the RZ350 post 's (not all because there are A LOT) and I have heard all of the arguments about wether its worth it or not and all i really want to know is if there is a step by step thread on the subject? If there isn't i have to ask why? i am considering this swap and I want to know how to do it before I dive in. I am building a trail banshee so it needs to have great lowend but I like to go fast so I need it to unwind in the fields. If there is a better/easier/cheaper way to go I will but I would really like to gain the torque I need for the woods. Please if anyone has a step by step repost it if not thanks anyway.

 

From what I have seen... converting to an RZ requires not only the PV cyls but all the electrical with it... The few I've seen that work properly were complete setups pulled from running motorcycles...

 

There are serval cylinders out now that produce good torque and a broad powerband... They are kind of the new trail and dune cylinder for low/mid power.... I'd check them out with a site sponser.... produce more torque and hp and save you a lot of headaches because they're basically bolt on to your banshee bottom end... 68mm bore nikasil cast cylinders from 4mil up to 10mil, they may even have stock stroke out now???

 

Hope this helps you

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From what I have seen... converting to an RZ requires not only the PV cyls but all the electrical with it... The few I've seen that work properly were complete setups pulled from running motorcycles...

 

There are serval cylinders out now that produce good torque and a broad powerband... They are kind of the new trail and dune cylinder for low/mid power.... I'd check them out with a site sponser.... produce more torque and hp and save you a lot of headaches because they're basically bolt on to your banshee bottom end... 68mm bore nikasil cast cylinders from 4mil up to 10mil, they may even have stock stroke out now???

 

Hope this helps you

 

 

thanks, I've already got a +4mm stroker 115mm long rod crank and it helped out in the woods but i still had to have the tranny a gear lower and in higher rpm's to get the out of corner power i wanted. I've owned my banshee since 1998 so I am well aware of the power trail manners of it and have made do with it but now all my friends have upgraded to 4 strokes and while I can still win in a flat out drag I feel out gunned in the woods. my setup is 4 mil 115mm stroker long rod, .060 wiesco 795's, timing plate set at +4*, k&n with pro flo adapter, dyno jet kit, boost bottle, fmf fattys w/ power core 2's, 3/8 " reed cage spacers and stock reeds and cages.

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my setup is 4 mil 115mm stroker long rod, .060 wiesco 795's, timing plate set at +4*, k&n with pro flo adapter, dyno jet kit, boost bottle, fmf fattys w/ power core 2's, 3/8 " reed cage spacers and stock reeds and cages.

 

Are you running a 4 mill un-ported stock cylinders?

A good porting will help your power.

Most people will say that your boost botle is not going to give you anything so you can dump that.

If you have stock carb´s, there is no need for spacers.

Also a set of ProCircuit pipes will give you a better low-mid than the Fattys.

Better reeds like Carbon Tech lows or Boyesen Duals will help your power in ported stock cages.

 

I have a 350RD(RZ) Streetbike and a ported Banshee with bolt-on´s. The Banshee has a better power everywhere.

 

-Pasi S.

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step by step conversion for PV cylinder..

 

1. consider that a rz setup is the way to go.

2. consider all the bullshit you will need to find and buy and then where to mount it all

3. wake up and realize its not 1990 anymore and the aftermarket has boomed on banshee's and you dont need leftover crap for the 70's

4. purchase a 535cc PV cheeta and wreck it into a tree because it makes nearly 75ft lbs of tq

5. wake up in the hospital with the biggest grin on your face ever..

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi guys,

 

I have read almost all of the RZ350 post 's (not all because there are A LOT) and I have heard all of the arguments about wether its worth it or not and all i really want to know is if there is a step by step thread on the subject? If there isn't i have to ask why? i am considering this swap and I want to know how to do it before I dive in. I am building a trail banshee so it needs to have great lowend but I like to go fast so I need it to unwind in the fields. If there is a better/easier/cheaper way to go I will but I would really like to gain the torque I need for the woods. Please if anyone has a step by step repost it if not thanks anyway.

 

By having done the project 2 years ago, let me light you up:

 

first of all, I did the project because I wanted a strong trail engine with an amazing top end ... thurs me this set-up rock. I don't say it's the best numbers on dyno, but the overhaul power curve is awesome. I never ride a banshee with that kind of smooth power range and still able to rev to 10,300 rpm. And honestly no body I know passed me with this set-up ... FYI: I 'm not doing drag race on friday evening ... I ride with my buddies and girl friend. As Jim (Passion Racing Engine) explained some time ago: you can still get better number with ported Banshee cylinder because the exhaust port is wider, but the RZ350 have a better usable powerband. My set-up is very lineair from idle to 6000 RPM and then explode to 9,8000 and easily over-rev to 10,300. My old set-up was banshee play-dune port with T5, PWK 28, 20cc coolhead & Vforce2 and it was an open switch or nothing, if I can compare.

 

For you info stock banshee is some thing as 41 HP and stock RZ350 Canadian cylinder (31K) made 59 HP at 9000 rpm (published by Yamaha). See what I mean, once modified ... I expect mine very close to 70 HP if not already done. I need to run it on the dyno to confirm.

 

here is the list of stuff I used:

 

Engine:

RZ350 1985 cylinder

11 ports design, 4 mil (by Passion Racing Engines, need to post pic, the porting is amazing)

RZ350 Pro-design head with custom domes (by Passion Racing)

Brand new welded crank, 58mm stroke

Wiseco piston 65mm

ported case (by FAST)

Tommy Blaster B1 flange for pipe adaptor (inside diameter matched to the exhaust port)

Paul Turner High Rev pipes

 

Intake:

V-Force 2 cage with new reeds

BOSS intake with cross-over

Keihin PWK 33mm carb, for hot summer: 155, 40, 4clip, 1.5 turn

K&N filter

 

Electronic:

Zeeltronic programmable computer (timing advance and power valve opening)

power valve servo-controller (came from the exup valve of a Yamaya R1)

RZ350 stator and flywheel

RZ350 voltage regulator/rectifier

Battery eliminator (condensator)

 

Tranny mod:

a modified RZ350 shfit drum with a bearing on the stator side (from WCR)

RZ forks with roller pin

modded shift shaft (from FAST)

Shift star mod (mull engineering)

shift pro lever (with bearing)

magnum clutch basket

cascade pankage bearing

 

others:

power valve cable and housing

custom wiring harness

prodesign water impeller

YFZ450 front caliper

YFZ450 front shock

and lot of time invested

 

this may not be the cheapest way to make good HP, but this engine is always open up to 10,000 rpm. 100% happy with this set-up.

Here in Canada, RZ350 parts are way more common and easier to get. Or see often on ebay and you will find every thing. Martin

Edited by Thewhite
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anybody want some RZ stuff? I got 2 complete bottom ends and 2 sets of cylinders with the powervalves. (original bores) You need the rest of the operating gear.) I'd rather sell to members that Ebay. Let me know..... :cheers:

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For you info stock banshee is some thing as 41 HP and stock RZ350 Canadian cylinder (31K) made 59 HP at 9000 rpm (published by Yamaha). See what I mean, once modified ... I expect mine very close to 70 HP if not already done. I need to run it on the dyno to confirm.

 

 

 

If you wanted to make about 70HP with powervalves......You could have just bought a 472 4 mill Cheetah from Trinity Racing. :rotflmao:

Their stuff tops out at about 70HP. (68 to be exact) <_<

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For you info stock banshee is some thing as 41 HP and stock RZ350 Canadian cylinder (31K) made 59 HP at 9000 rpm (published by Yamaha). See what I mean, once modified ... I expect mine very close to 70 HP if not already done. I need to run it on the dyno to confirm.

 

 

 

If you wanted to make about 70HP with powervalves......You could have just bought a 472 4 mill Cheetah from Trinity Racing. :rotflmao:

Their stuff tops out at about 70HP. (68 to be exact) <_<

 

this was also an option, but at that time I begun the project my intent was to use my old intake stuff (filter, PWK28, prodesign intake and Vforce) with the new cylinder to save money. Cheetah doesn't work with stock reeds. It finally end with all new set-up from the filter to the pipes. Jim (passion racing) recommend to use bigger carb and I found that it was impossible to run RZ cylinders with T5 pipe.

 

I never run a 4 mill Cheetah engine, but i was told that the RZ cylinders are more linear if compare to a cheetah. The RZ PV opening is controlled by computer via servo-motor, the opening is drived by the RPM. The Cheetah is exhaust pressure operate, it more tendency to open or close in a single stroke motion.

 

I had to sell my truck in 2009 to buy a home and my last banshee engine blow about a month earlier ... since I had no more truck to haul the shee and the engine crank was blow I began the RZ cylinder engine project.

Edited by Thewhite
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Hi guys,

 

I have read almost all of the RZ350 post 's (not all because there are A LOT) and I have heard all of the arguments about wether its worth it or not and all i really want to know is if there is a step by step thread on the subject? If there isn't i have to ask why? i am considering this swap and I want to know how to do it before I dive in. I am building a trail banshee so it needs to have great lowend but I like to go fast so I need it to unwind in the fields. If there is a better/easier/cheaper way to go I will but I would really like to gain the torque I need for the woods. Please if anyone has a step by step repost it if not thanks anyway.

 

if you are very interest for this set-up get the following:

 

RZ35 cylinders + head+power valve cable and housing (300$)

Zeeltronic programmable computer (300$)

power valve servo-controller (came from the exup valve of a Yamaya R1, 25$ on ebay)

RZ350 stator and flywheel (250$ on ebay)

RZ350 voltage regulator/rectifier (25$ on ebay)

Battery eliminator (zeelltronic, 30$)

Paul Turner High Rev pipes or Rocket pipe

custom exhaust spigot or Tommy Blaster B1 flange for pipe adaptor (I had to enlarge the ID to the pipe inlet and press some sleeve on it to match the standard bansheeexhaust OD)

 

and contact me, I will explain how I did it. Wiring is pretty simple if you get the Zeeltronic programmer (PV and timing in one module with about 20 wires)

Edited by Thewhite
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For you info stock banshee is some thing as 41 HP and stock RZ350 Canadian cylinder (31K) made 59 HP at 9000 rpm (published by Yamaha). See what I mean, once modified ... I expect mine very close to 70 HP if not already done. I need to run it on the dyno to confirm.

 

 

 

If you wanted to make about 70HP with powervalves......You could have just bought a 472 4 mill Cheetah from Trinity Racing. :rotflmao:

Their stuff tops out at about 70HP. (68 to be exact) <_<

 

 

i'd go out on a limb and say a properly setup pv cheeta even a stock stroke 65mm would be much easier to use and make power than the rz junk..

 

yes i dealt with one of these it was a neat motor but after fighting electrical issues with it all the time it wasnt worth it plus all the extra do do to make it all work sucked..

 

NOW maybe using a litium battery, and a proper programer/ cdi for the electrics would change my mind on one.. BUT after dealing with other designs using pv's i think i would rather waste my time on a two stroke shop pv setup in a modern cylinder.. using the same other items.. a more modern pv setup with proper pipes, electrics and controll based on rpm AND engine load would be very cool. i think it could be done with carbs with tps sensors..

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Do a search under my name. I did a compete RZ conversion back in 2006 and the quad has been absolutely flawless. Motor work was done by Patriot Racing/MX mods, estimates horse is 72 and torque is around 45lbs. Compared to my other banshee that has almost the exact same mods the RZ is insane to ride.

 

Mounting all the electonics isn't that difficulte. Put the servo on the right side of the frame up by the ignition coil, battery eliminator on the right side of the aribox on the frame. CDI mounted to the back of the airbox, rectifier and the PV control motor where the current banshee CDI and voltage regulator is held. Clean set up.

 

You won't be dissapointed.

 

To be honest, the RZ has great low end but you will need to experment with the external gearing. I use the RZ internal gearing with a 14-41 external gear combo.

Compared to stock gearing on a shee with this set up 1st gear on a RZ feels like between a 1st and a 2nd on the shee. This the same feeling till you get to 6th.

From 5th to 6th the gearing seems close. People say the RZ motor with the Powervalves smooths the power delivery I feel just the opposite. The set up the

Dan at Patriot Racing set up with just flat out rocks. Motor pulls much harder than my other shee. Not mellow at all.

 

Yaxy

Edited by Yaxy
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