Matt21

tl;dr...

$52, you pay shipping

Raptor Rally is just the event held over the weekend, the "raptor rally" is not involved with the actual hill racing. No classes, hill racing, run what ya brung, 2smoke or 4choke.

Are we talking about a Lonestar drag chassis or a Lonestar mx type chassis???

ttt

EVERYTHING IS SOLD

I'm still working on finding the brand of this tank, came with my Lonestar roller from Slipshot Racing... Most alum tanks like this are about $300.

No, I'll be away working... I can take some better close up pics if you want them.

Keeping them together.

JJ&A 28.5" hillshooter axle (chrome washers and lock nuts for wheel hubs. chrome allen bolts, washers, lock nuts for sprocket hub) axle was polished, needs a quick buff to bring the shine back. including lsr carrier $500 shipped Polished Aluminum drag tank with Pingel Valve: $300 shipped

So you asked Wildcard all those questions for no reason in another thread, knowing you were gonna use Ken anyway....

That post was a joke, lol

How old is the motor

They are not Ultralight tires correct.

uhhhh????

404cc is stock stroke 69 bore... Looks like a trinity motor to me.

SOLD

TTT for an Oregon nukka

yep and about another 5 for a hill chassis.

Mine is kick start, it's not hard to kick over just gotta get a feel for it. Most at the hill run kickers in case it dies on the line/hill. I fire the bike up at home before I leave, hard starting at first to clear out the purge fuel, but then it fires up first kick usually. I'm running 3 out the left... but if you want to run a roto start you will have to run 3 pipes out the right to get in there. If ur gonna have to have pipes made, do 3 out the right. Ignition new is about a grand. I haven't called around for prices on an msd yet.

I'm guessing you bought the 20mil DM that was on ebay right? cylinders need fixed and I can't remember the condition of the crank... I'm running an 18mil cheetah triple in a Lonestar hill chassis. I would run Mattoons 10plate clutch set up with Mattoon billet cover ( the billet cover is a must if you're going to kick start it and not use a roto start) and probly 2:68 straight cuts Mattoon cases, make sure to have the shift fork window put in Mattoon bearing support There is a lot of debate on what trans to run, every builder has their own opinion and so do a lot of personal owners, I'm running a Robinson now but want to try a billet 2nd 2-5 and see if it will hold. You're going to be in the 200+ hp range, so there is not a "right or wrong answer" this is one of those problems you will have to be prepared to deal with. As for the ignition, a lot of people have started running the MSD setup... I'm running a Twister modded triple ignition (snomo) currently but a switch to the MSD might happen someday. I would let a builder assemble the motor, so you know it's right the first time... a triple can be very costly if not setup correctly. Just don't try to cut corners on these motors or you'll fight it everytime. Pipes will need to be made, putting it in a hill chassis make sure the pipes will clear the frame. You'll need to run 2 pumps for the carbs most likely as well, 39-45mm to carb of your choice. You're gonna battle chassis setup too... but that's a whole other issue, lol

Buy used billet crank: $650ish (used at least 1 season most likely) Have it rebuilt after you buy it: $375 Total $1075 Running the used crank and have it let loose in ur motor after 4 rides: $1,000+ give or take depending on damage and motor size.... + the $650 paid already Buy a new Billet crank $1,200-$1,350 GOOD new cast cranks are an option for smaller stuff...

View this link and let me know if you are interested, can ship it. +8 nose dual a arm chassis... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=146439&pid=1299986&st=0entry1299986

These pipes are for a Big flange Cheetah, Twister Big flange and small flange DM (1.90") I would also like to know the Inside Diameter of the stinger tubes...