Jump to content

bore sizing


Recommended Posts

I'm new to the banshee and with dmfisher71 on this. The Banshee I bought has was rebuilt last summer, the pervious owner told me it had been ported for racing, I think .90 over is what he told me. I don't know what that means exactly or how much its been bored out. I would like to know because when I find its time to do a rebuild I'll know if I need to buy new cylinders and pistons first. I also don't know what 4mil means... read it a lot. Maybe the someone could start a thread with words, terms and acronyms... defined.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm new to the banshee and with dmfisher71 on this. The Banshee I bought has was rebuilt last summer, the pervious owner told me it had been ported for racing, I think .90 over is what he told me. I don't know what that means exactly or how much its been bored out. I would like to know because when I find its time to do a rebuild I'll know if I need to buy new cylinders and pistons first. I also don't know what 4mil means... read it a lot. Maybe the someone could start a thread with words, terms and acronyms... defined.

 

0.040" or 40 thousandths is equal to 1 mm. So 0.090" over is 2.25 mm over stock bore or 66.25 mm. 66.50 is the max to go on stock cylinders. The cylinder wall is very thin at that point. That means your looking at new cylinders or new sleeves likely next time your top end needs work.

 

SP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How would you measure what your cylinder is bored to... is it as easy as taking the head off and measuring your cylinder, or is it more involved then that..? I know the shop where the last rebuild was done I think I will double check with them before taking anything apart...

 

Further...

 

Are sleeves a cheaper option come time to rebuild...?

 

Are sleeves reliable?

 

If I just replace with new cylinders and pistons... what can I expect from a performance stand point going back to stock size...

 

Should I have to worry about replacing any rods or crankshaft components?

 

Would it require jetting...?

 

I know some very basic questions... I would think I have the correct answer for most, but I've learned, unless you've did it... trust but verify.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How would you measure what your cylinder is bored to... is it as easy as taking the head off and measuring your cylinder, or is it more involved then that..? I know the shop where the last rebuild was done I think I will double check with them before taking anything apart...

 

Further...

 

Are sleeves a cheaper option come time to rebuild...?

 

Are sleeves reliable?

 

If I just replace with new cylinders and pistons... what can I expect from a performance stand point going back to stock size...

 

Should I have to worry about replacing any rods or crankshaft components?

 

Would it require jetting...?

 

I know some very basic questions... I would think I have the correct answer for most, but I've learned, unless you've did it... trust but verify.

 

There will be almost no noticeable difference between the bored out cylinder and a stock bore cylinder. Very minimal. If you're going to buy sleeves and get the work done to re-sleeve you might as well just buy new stock cylinders and send them out to get re-ported for your 4mil. As long as you don't have a catastrophic failure your crank and rods will probably be fine. Just check for up and down play when you take the cylinders off. If you get sleeves, by the time you buy the sleeves, pay to have them pressed in, and get them port-matched to your previous porting and buy a new top end you're going to be into them as much as a new set of stock cylinders and a new port job.

 

- Jared

Link to comment
Share on other sites

might as well just buy new stock cylinders and send them out to get re-ported for your 4mil. As long as you don't have a catastrophic failure your crank and rods will probably be fine. Just check for up and down play when you take the cylinders off.

- Jared

 

If you port new cylinders for a 4 mil your not going to use your stock crank. (Wasn't sure if you knew that but based on earlier questions I didn't want you getting confused). No re jetting for new top end. Only performance gain would be higher compression from a new top end.

 

SP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...