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Posted

Well I just put my clutch back together last night. Put the cover on, did a leak down test, passed. Sync my carbs, using the carb windows. I have tors box, so I adjusted the idle speed like the clymer said. Turned my air/fuel screw two turns out, then adjusted the screw on the tors box. I don't have a rpm gauge, so I just try to hear what idle should sound like. Put yamalube SAE 10-40 all purpose performance four stroke trans oil in it. It seems to seep a little oil out of the cover screw where the foot peg is at, can't get it tighter cuz I'll strip the head of the screw. So I can't get it to quit seeping, but it never showed up in the leak down test. I torqued my clutch springs screws 7.4 ft lbs. It had an 3/16 even gap when I pulled the clutch in. Now the problem is, it won't run like it did 2 weeks ago. It would pull so hard that I can pop up the front 1st thourgh 3rd gear, now it barely comes up in first gear. It seems to have power, but not what I had two weeks ago. The only thing different is the trans oil I put in it. Is my clutch slipping? Also before I took it apart, it used to die when it was first warming up, from neutral into first gear. I would have to throttle it a little so it wouldn't kill it. Now I can engage into first, and it dosent kill it, it gives it a tug like it's in first, but not like it used to two weeks ago. Carbs are clean, I shook my gas tank before I ran gas thourgh it. Is it running too rich? Do I need to mess with the air/fuel screw more? New clutch springs? Confused here. Any help/suggestions appreciated. Thanks. Adam.

Posted

One more thing, it starts up first kick, and when I throttle it, it doesn't stay high in rpms, but doesn't go way down like if I just kickstarted it. Hope that makes sense.

Posted

One more thing, it starts up first kick, and when I throttle it, it doesn't stay high in rpms, but doesn't go way down like if I just kickstarted it. Hope that makes sense.

 

 

Could be a few things. if its staying reved up i would say that it is too lean. what is your elevation, main jet, idle jet, air box setup, motor setup, pipes.....I would turn your air screw all the way in and back out 1.5 turns and see if that fixes the lean rev.

Posted

Could be a few things. if its staying reved up i would say that it is too lean. what is your elevation, main jet, idle jet, air box setup, motor setup, pipes.....I would turn your air screw all the way in and back out 1.5 turns and see if that fixes the lean rev.

 

Stock engine. Bored .80 over. Elevation is 1300. Fmf fatties.. And honestly my brother jetted it and he jetted it rich, I think 300 main and I can't remember what the pilot is or clip...I tired calling him but no answer...anyways...stock air box, no lid.....and it doesn't rev on it's own, just when I throttle it...also it could be rich, cuz when I pull the choke out, it should rev higher, am I right? Cuz it dies when i pull the choke out

Posted

when u pull the choke it will kill it if it is hot and jetted correctly.the choke richens the mixture,so if its hot and pulling the choke makes it run better,its to lean,more than not on the pilot circuit when that happens.choking it richens the mix when cold so it starts easy,but im sure u notice when it warms if u leave the choke out,it will die,it gets too rich.300 main is high,u should be like 280 at 1300 ft.also,i will put money that the change in oil did it.drain and fill with the regular fluid u use.

Posted

when u pull the choke it will kill it if it is hot and jetted correctly.the choke richens the mixture,so if its hot and pulling the choke makes it run better,its to lean,more than not on the pilot circuit when that happens.choking it richens the mix when cold so it starts easy,but im sure u notice when it warms if u leave the choke out,it will die,it gets too rich.300 main is high,u should be like 280 at 1300 ft.also,i will put money that the change in oil did it.drain and fill with the regular fluid u use.

 

So trans oil has that much effect? I'll go back to my old one. Ya when I pull the choke it kills it after it's warmed. But there are time I'll go out after work, and not even pull the choke out, and it starts up on first kick...is that a sign of running too rich?

Posted

yes trans fluid can effect it that much......if it used to be atf type F that you were using it is pretty thin.........then you step up to a way thicker 10w-40 and its that much thicker when its cold so it can drag on alot of parts. Its not BAD for your stuff.....it just changes the charecteristics of your bikes performance somewhat. also it could be how you adjusted your carbs.

 

and a leakdown will not show you if your going to leak trans fluid. it will only show you if your going to leak pressure form the cylinder ENGINE CASE. where as the transfluid that your talking about is on the outside of the engine case and leaking from the clutch.

Posted

So trans oil has that much effect? I'll go back to my old one. Ya when I pull the choke it kills it after it's warmed. But there are time I'll go out after work, and not even pull the choke out, and it starts up on first kick...is that a sign of running too rich?

its supposed to kill it if u pull the choke and its warm.sometimes when its warm u wont have to use choke,but i dont think thats the case.i know u synched by using windows so this shouldnt be an issue,but are u sure u did that right and the slides arent in backwards.cutouts towards rear looking thru the airbox u should see the half moons.if its starting cold with no choke,that puts me in that direction.what size pilots u running?i suppose it could be rich,but even that is the low circuit and doesnt affect top end but slight.if u are 2 turns out,go 3.if its worse,u are lean,go back in.same as the other,if u run it in to 1 and it gets worse,its too rich.id check those slides,unless u never took them out.play with air screws,1/4 turns at a time once u figure out if ur lean or rich.

Posted

its supposed to kill it if u pull the choke and its warm.sometimes when its warm u wont have to use choke,but i dont think thats the case.i know u synched by using windows so this shouldnt be an issue,but are u sure u did that right and the slides arent in backwards.cutouts towards rear looking thru the airbox u should see the half moons.if its starting cold with no choke,that puts me in that direction.what size pilots u running?i suppose it could be rich,but even that is the low circuit and doesnt affect top end but slight.if u are 2 turns out,go 3.if its worse,u are lean,go back in.same as the other,if u run it in to 1 and it gets worse,its too rich.id check those slides,unless u never took them out.play with air screws,1/4 turns at a time once u figure out if ur lean or rich.

 

Ya the slides are in right, cut off towards the back....I just noticed I didn't screw down my tors box all the way banghead , and I should have used my carb sync tool to sync the carbs. I messed with the two big screws on the tors box, just by sound to ear. So I need to use the tool, then put my air box back on, then adjust my air screws. My jetting is 300 main, 27.5 pilot, 3rd needle clip...it should run like it did two weeks ago...then I'll pit in the oil for the trans I had before. I just can't seem to get it to quit seeping out of that one screw...I'm gonna take it apart and spray gasket sealant on my gasket...anyone ever use a tachometer to determine rpms?...and what does a slipped clutch feel like? Thanks all for the replys! Adam

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

a slipping clutch you can hear and feel. in gear under load (on the throttle) you will hear the rpms rise but you wont feel much pull from the bike.

Posted

- Put yamalube SAE 10-40 all purpose performance four stroke trans oil in it..

-The only thing different is the trans oil I put in it. Is my clutch slipping?

 

 

This is the way how I burned my clutch in my RD/RZ350 street bike!

If I were you , I would change that oil as soon as possible.

 

-Pasi S.

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