What brand CDI

[zr2highrider]

I was riding out on my track the other day and my shee starts to cut out really bad. It acted like it was running one one cylinder, didnt want to go into the powerband, wanted to bog out, and wouldnt idle. I take it back to the shop and took a plug out to check spark. I got nothing. Stator ohm'd out and my coil was in the ballpark. (clymer repair manual says .42 max mine was at .6. Could this be my problem as well?) Checked all my connections and they are good. So here are my questions. 1: Could my coil be bad? (i bought this one last year) 2: I have heard of a "smack test" on a cdi to see if its bad (smack it with your hand and see if it works) does this work? 3: What brand cdi is best? Should I buy an aftermarket one that adjusts my timing? I bought a used one off ebay last year when i had this problem before. It was stock and now im having this problem again. Any advise would be great.

Edited March 16, 2011 by zr2highrider

[RedMonKey]

Have you removed the TORs on the carbs if they are stock?

[400sbc]

I was riding out on my track the other day and my shee starts to cut out really bad. It acted like it was running one one cylinder, didnt want to go into the powerband, wanted to bog out, and wouldnt idle. I take it back to the shop and took a plug out to check spark. I got nothing. Stator ohm'd out and my coil was in the ballpark. (clymer repair manual says .42 max mine was at .6. Could this be my problem as well?) Checked all my connections and they are good. So here are my questions. 1: Could my coil be bad? (i bought this one last year) 2: I have heard of a "smack test" on a cdi to see if its bad (smack it with your hand and see if it works) does this work? 3: What brand cdi is best? Should I buy an aftermarket one that adjusts my timing? I bought a used one off ebay last year when i had this problem before. It was stock and now im having this problem again. Any advise would be great.

 

1) when my cdi get fuck up on my shee it wouldn't start . 2) if your friend got a banshee too take is box to test 3) ive got a DYNA with adjustable timing and it's works really good (i run a lot of water, dirt, snow) never add any problem yet (2 years) 4) worst thing to do buying a used cdi ! i already do that before i buy my dyna, and same thing happens to me but i get stock like 130 miles away from my home!! hope it helps

[MikeNick]

If it turns out to be your CDI get another stock one. If you do some research on here that seems to be the best.

[zr2highrider]

Well, it turns out that it was not my cdi. Its my woodruf key on my crank. My flywheel nut came loose and threw my timing off so it wouldnt start. BUT when i took my cdi off to look at it, i did notice a large crack were the wires connect to it in the rubber. Regardless im going to get a new cdi and not a used one. So now my concern turns towards the woodruf key. Should i put locktight on the flywheel threads? Is there any other way to keep my key in the crank? Thanks for the advice.

[joetechford]

Well, it turns out that it was not my cdi. Its my woodruf key on my crank. My flywheel nut came loose and threw my timing off so it wouldnt start. BUT when i took my cdi off to look at it, i did notice a large crack were the wires connect to it in the rubber. Regardless im going to get a new cdi and not a used one. So now my concern turns towards the woodruf key. Should i put locktight on the flywheel threads? Is there any other way to keep my key in the crank? Thanks for the advice.

 

 

 

Well if i remember right.... the nut is self tightening as your shee runs so there should be no way for it too just back off correct? so if my memory is right then id say your keyway is either poor quality for keeping the key in or its worn out..... the key can be a pain in the ass to center just right when putting the flywheel on.... maybe thats the problem

[700vflash]

Been there, use some loctite!

[Snopczynski]

It is probably a bad plug or plug cap. swap caps to side or take them of and ohm test them.

[VooDooBanshee]

Well, it turns out that it was not my cdi. Its my woodruf key on my crank. My flywheel nut came loose and threw my timing off so it wouldnt start. BUT when i took my cdi off to look at it, i did notice a large crack were the wires connect to it in the rubber. Regardless im going to get a new cdi and not a used one. So now my concern turns towards the woodruf key. Should i put locktight on the flywheel threads? Is there any other way to keep my key in the crank? Thanks for the advice.

 

 

Same thing happend to me before. Use an impact (don't go too nuts) and use some red loctite on the nut. Make sure you tap that key into the key slot - don't just set it in.

[bansheesandrider]

Same thing happend to me before. Use an impact (don't go too nuts) and use some red loctite on the nut. Make sure you tap that key into the key slot - don't just set it in.

NO, don't use and impact wrench, you will either not get it tight enough or you will overtighten it and damage the threads on the crank eventually. The correct way of doing it is to make sure the key is properly seated and put some Loctite on the threads, and then tighten it with a torque wrench to the proper spec per the service manual. If you reead the FACTORY service manual it will tell you how to do this properly.

[zr2highrider]

NO, don't use and impact wrench, you will either not get it tight enough or you will overtighten it and damage the threads on the crank eventually. The correct way of doing it is to make sure the key is properly seated and put some Loctite on the threads, and then tighten it with a torque wrench to the proper spec per the service manual. If you reead the FACTORY service manual it will tell you how to do this properly.