vizmark Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 I need to tighten up the axle nuts after installing a new stock rear bearing carrier. Problem is I don't have the proper tools, so I will be using pipe wrenches. How are you guys (without the special tools) estimating the torque and tightening them down. The first nut is to be torqued at 40#'s. How freely should the axle rotate at 40#'s. After the first nut is set I am assuming I will just tighten the crap out of the second nut after applying some thread locker to both nuts. Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zach45 Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 just fucking tighten it up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nieskes Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 just fucking tighten it up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 You can't just tighten them up, they will come loose again. You need to follow the manual spec to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstaten24 Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 i just tightened mine up with a couple pipe wrenches and they work fine, never came loose on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 I made my own wrenches with some scrap cut to fit, two broken 3/8 to 1/2 socket adapters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulvafan537240 Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 I just tighten the hell out of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 you have to tightent the inside nut to the carrier just enough to take the slack out (around 40 ft lbs). Then tighten the outside nut to the inside nut (around 100-140 ft lbs). You then mark the inside nut and back the inside nut off and tighten it agains the outside nut so it moves at least 3mm. I can't remeber the exact specs. If you just tighten the nuts agains the carrier really tight, you will ruin the axle bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulvafan537240 Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 you have to tightent the inside nut to the carrier just enough to take the slack out (around 40 ft lbs). Then tighten the outside nut to the inside nut (around 100-140 ft lbs). You then mark the inside nut and back the inside nut off and tighten it agains the outside nut so it moves at least 3mm. I can't remeber the exact specs. If you just tighten the nuts agains the carrier really tight, you will ruin the axle bearings. So you want 3mm play side to side? I need to check mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 no, the nuts need to rotate more than 3mm when you tighten them. Read the manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) You can't just tighten them up, they will come loose again. You need to follow the manual spec to do it. Sorry to revive an old-ish thread but I can attest to this. I was just pushing mine around in the garage yesterday and found that mine had backed off until they were finger tight, even had Loctite on them. There must be a method to the madness indeed. Edited May 25, 2011 by bigblockbanshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KlotzBanshee Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Ha that’s funny, I'm doing this tomorrow. I just got done replacing the carrier bearings, spacer, and seals today. I just need to torque everything down. But I have all the right tools for the job. Go buy the wrenches and a torque wrench if ya can and save yourself the headache, they weren’t that expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Lol I actually just got done paying for the wrench set right before I posted that. I already have the torque wrench so hopefully I can get this thing torqued down correctly this time. Talk about having the rear end step out on you unexpectedly. The chain was probably the only thing holding tension on it and keeping it from going back through the carrier... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KlotzBanshee Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 The real bitch was getting the carrier and axel apart. Mine is a 99 and it had never been done. Rusty splines and siezed bearings...It took a ten ton press to get that fucker out! But I got it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) Ya I dealt with that 5 years ago when I tore mine down. It had been treated like the one it the right-side pic in my signature but the difference between me owning it and the previous owner(s) is that I washed it back down and cleaned it spotless after I got done with that ride. I guarantee you it had 8 year old mud caked up in places that mud shouldn't even get to lol. Edited May 25, 2011 by bigblockbanshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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