zkaoskid Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 ok so two weeks ago i got my first banshee, she came with trinity IV pipes and 30mm oko carbs. it was running like crap so i got her home and pulled off the carbs. the right carbs needle was not in the slide, it was chilling in the needle jet passage. so i put that back in and changed the pilot jet from a 52 to a 50, the bike ran better, still breaking up bad on the low end. once you get thru half throttle she rips. there is a 160 main. so i got 48 pilots and put those in, big difference, but off idle she bogged real badso i took a look at the air screws and brought them to 1.5 turns and that took care of a lot of it but when you hit the throttle she boggs then opens up. should i go back to my 50 pilot and mess with the air screw? im located pretty close to sea level and its been around 35-40 degrees out lately where im at. i would of kept messing with it but when i brought her back from my test run she was idleing and then shut off. i went to kick it over slowly and she was all bound up but still moved a little, sounded like i did something bad in the cylinder. so i pulled it all apart tonight to find nothing wrong in the cylinders, took the side cover off just to start exploring this beauty and found two of the stator plate bolts where stripped, one had fallen out completely and the top one backed out and jammed aganist the stator flywheel thingy. so im currently working on fixing that mess and putting it back together. any suggestions would be awesome, the bike is pretty stock except the kn air filter, pipes, carbs, another thing, when i pulled the flywheel thing off my woodruff key came out and so did another woodruff key looking like thing came out. it was boogered up and i could not see where it came from. but it was in the "general" shape of a woodruff key but i know its not, and could this issue be effecting my low end issue being that i had a couple pieces bouncing around the area that deals with my timing? im still kinda new to quads to im trying to learn as much as i can thank you for any help you can lend. Quote
rdzbangshee Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 i would get a stock woodruff key and not use the two you got not good . jd weld and tap the holes you can mod the head and crank the timing up for some good low end to. Quote
DGFUNNY70 Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 I typical ride at approximately the same altitude that you are currently at with one exception the temperature is about 60 to 90 degrees. There are typically too needles used in these carbs the JJH and the N68A needle I have used them both and had similar results. My mods are in my signature for reference. I would say you don’t need a 160 main with only pipes, air filters for mods. 155 Main, 52 Pilot, Air screw 1.5 turns out, JJH or N68A is what I have used. Below are a list of what I attempted and the results. Clip position #3 1/4 to 1/3 of throttle bog 3/4 throttle is mediocre in my opinion. Clip position #4 1/4 to 1/3 of throttle bog worse than before 3/4 pulls like a freight train. Clip position #2 1/4 to 1/3 of throttle bike runs great 3/4 bad is very lean does not pull hard. I would leave the 160 main in use a 52 pilot with the air screw 1.5 turns out and try the #2 needle clip position and see how it runs. I would then adjust the main until you find the happiest medium between ¾ throttle and full throttle. If there is anyone else out there that has a better solution I’m all ears. Quote
camatv Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 sell the oko junk.. buy REAL pwk's get the needles from LRD ( if you can) and ride it i usually end up in the 45-50 pilot range, and 145-160 mian with this style carb NO bog NONE at all these lil carbs should bip bip bip all day long.. Quote
camatv Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 if messing with the needle position and the pilot is wrong or the main is wrong or the carb slide cut out is wrong it wont ever run well. in jetting i usually mess with the pilot and main as much as possible till it runs ver very well THEN mess with clip position. i usually leave the needle in the middle clip if after messing iwht it all and you just cannot get a good tune out of it the needle is WRONG. bogs are usually lean conditions. you want enough boost of fuel at low end and needle 1/4-3/4 to get the motor to rev then enough to get it to RPm and lean enough to make power.. Quote
Larry's Shee Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 Welcome to BHQ !! You can either mod your timing plate or get an adjustable one, billit is best. Obviously repair stripped threads.. Clean poles on stator , inside of flywheel, and lugs on outside of flywheel. Set pick-up coil gap after assembly. What are your plans while you have top end apart? Consider new rings while you have it apart. Quote
zkaoskid Posted February 13, 2011 Author Report Posted February 13, 2011 Welcome to BHQ !! You can either mod your timing plate or get an adjustable one, billit is best. Obviously repair stripped threads.. Clean poles on stator , inside of flywheel, and lugs on outside of flywheel. Set pick-up coil gap after assembly. What are your plans while you have top end apart? Consider new rings while you have it apart. well today im going to put it all back together and mess with it. the pistons are still fresh and i still see good crosshatch on the walls. i have the needles set in the middle and im going to put the 50 pilot back in and see if i cant get it running better. im not going to worry about any other mods till i get her running better incase i have to buy different carbs. i have a bunch of stock carb bodies that are kinda beat up but i dont have the caps and slides and all. and if i go and put money to the rebuilding the stock one ill probley just pick up a set of 28mm pwk. im not looking for a lot of top end out of this, im all about throttle response and trail and pit riding, we dont have any good wide open spots i know of in south jersey. ill update later tonight with what i come up with after messing with it. Quote
jasons Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 i run those carbs and have had no troubles. i only ride Glamis my mods and carb specs are in my Signature. no bogs whats so ever and she ride very clean and my plug chops are spot on. Quote
midlifecrisis Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 Im not sure how to do it, but apparently there is a mod you can do to the float bowls on the OKOs as well, to prevent them from starving the carbs of fuel. Maybe thats also part of the problem? Quote
sleeper06 Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 I have found those carbs to like big pilots,a set i recently tuned ended up with a 55 pilot,155 main,i find the air screw on these carbs lacking the proper jet circuitry or something.I would put big pilots in it and give it a whirl.A ported motor will pull fuel more effeciantly so if its ported it might end up in the 50 range Quote
zkaoskid Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Posted February 14, 2011 well i went you to mic the pistons and just check all my clearances and i guess i didnt look close enough at the pistons last night, the left side piston on the exhaust side was all messed up and i could see where carbon had made a trail down the side and the bottom ring was really tight in the ring land. the jugs were already at 66.50mm so im on the hunt for some replacement jugs redo the top end and then ill start the tunning process all over. i put helicoils in place and the stator plate is nice and tight and loctited them in so it wont happen again. not quite sure why there was a second "woodruff key" in there it almost looked homemade. the flywheel was really really tight coming off almost broke my tool. cleaned everything. put it all back together with no extra parts floating around this time. i also noticed my slides are kinda worn, i can see copper showing thru the plateing, so im going locate some replacement slides and probley switch up my needles. i think im going to get them ported before i throw them back on. Quote
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