stroking Posted October 18, 2010 Report Posted October 18, 2010 ITS a stock stroke H/R crank drag ported alky carbs +12 timing 125psi i never seen a crank bearing do this also what is the rod clearance suppose to be ? i got .035 on the side that the bearing went out on....clutch side. Quote
AKheathen Posted October 18, 2010 Report Posted October 18, 2010 with +12 timing, you are nutz for not running a trued/welded crank. how old is it? looks like it just failed. kinda hard to tell what is failure and what is collateral damage. if you plan on repairing that crank, you should check out that rod/bearing. at the least it needs to be tightened, but the heat marks say that it got extremely hot and is about to fail, unless it was from a rebuild. could be possible damage from lack of purging, or oil separation. just some things to think about.... Quote
700vflash Posted October 18, 2010 Report Posted October 18, 2010 Wow! What did it do to the cases? Quote
BANSHEE HP Posted October 18, 2010 Report Posted October 18, 2010 (edited) cheap bearings... and the side rod clearance should be like .020-.024 or so yours is coming apart. Edited October 18, 2010 by BANSHEE HP Quote
stroking Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Posted October 18, 2010 everything else is good to go....no case damage,when i was riding it kept bogging when i switched gears so i shut it down and tore it apart. the crank was VERY close to the case on this side too,so i think it was separating. Quote
Snopczynski Posted October 18, 2010 Report Posted October 18, 2010 I saw a bike with a wiseco crank do that. We had to replace the cases to get the thing to quit seizing. Quote
James-26 Posted October 18, 2010 Report Posted October 18, 2010 My engine is all stock except for my 65mm wiseco's. I run a true and welded crank. I had a brand new 2004 crank pull apart just like yours. Banshee is known for this. Your bearing was just cheap I bet. I like the OEM bearings but there are better options for higher HP banshee engines. Like AKheathen said if you reuse that crank you need to have the bigend rod bearing checked or replaced. Hell if I was you id replace that entire side, rod and bearing. Quote
stroking Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Posted October 19, 2010 im not going to use it again. Quote
stroking Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Posted October 19, 2010 I saw a bike with a wiseco crank do that. We had to replace the cases to get the thing to quit seizing. so you think the case may have something to do with it ? Quote
Snopczynski Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 so you think the case may have something to do with it ? possibly, you need to check the clearances around the bearings when installed in the case. If it is moving around, thats bad. Quote
700vflash Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 I have been looking up the clearances because I am going to be putting in a different crank and will be doing some measuring of my own. The CLYMER shop book say's the connecting rod side clearance is 0.25-0.75, as long as the crankshaft assembly width is within spec. Is this correct? Quote
No Limit Powersports Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 If that was oem bearing thats most likely your problem. The crank needs to be welded and a good bearing put on it. Andy M&M ATV Quote
No Limit Powersports Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 I have been looking up the clearances because I am going to be putting in a different crank and will be doing some measuring of my own. The CLYMER shop book say's the connecting rod side clearance is 0.25-0.75, as long as the crankshaft assembly width is within spec. Is this correct? LOL 1/4" to 3/4" of an inch i think you may have left out a 0 there. Quote
EvilBanshee Posted October 19, 2010 Report Posted October 19, 2010 by the time you get that thing fixed your better off buying a New one. Do it once and do it right as they say. Hot rods of vito's make nice cranks. not to crazy priced. Quote
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