AKheathen Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 of course, the book could be referring to mm, as well, which would be .010"-.030".......kinda sounds like what i remember for clearance... one thing i considered, and actually decided to go with, is that if it takes almost the same amount to repair the crank, then, for a little more, you can build one up that is better than a new one. i'm actually waiting on funds to send 2 hr 4mill cranks out to get built up the way i want, with better parts all around. just gotta pick up the twister rod bearings, and i should be set for parts, but anyways, it is an option.... Quote
stroking Posted October 22, 2010 Author Report Posted October 22, 2010 where kind i get the max load bearing from ? Quote
stroking Posted November 23, 2010 Author Report Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) well i put in a weld stock crank,but it was only weld on the outside pins and well i think its coming apart again.....i used the same top case and a different bottom case this time. take a look and tell me what you think?...is it coming apart ? Edited November 23, 2010 by stroking Quote
stroking Posted November 23, 2010 Author Report Posted November 23, 2010 I though the hot rods crank came welded n trued? I got a new 4mil long rod hot rods crank with the original bearings that hotrods send em with.... Do i need to send it out to get welded n trued? stock stroke HR crank do not come welded...i dont know if they trued or not. the first crank in this thread was a HR stock stroke. Quote
sheefreak Posted November 23, 2010 Report Posted November 23, 2010 You need to buy your cranks from builders. I would not run a hot rods, weisco, vito's, etc.(all same shit) w/o welding both pins inside and out and replacing both outer bearings w/tz and max load bearings. It is generally cheaper to buy a crank from a builder w/everything done than to purchase one and have to send it off to someone to do all the work. And I would not run a set of mismatched cases either. Quote
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