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Pancake Bearing Help


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Hey guys i need some help. I got to installing my pancake bearing i got from HJR and when i put the cover on and pull the clutch the cover pushes away from the case. When i tried to follow the Clymers and align the case arrow to the arm arrow i'd get a gap of about a 1/4"(pic 2). Then i jumped on here and found that you don't need to align the arrows just put the pressure plate on w/o springs and tighten down till the plate moves then back off a 1/4 turn and be done. Doing this i get less of a gap more like 1/8" (pic 3). i do have the clutch cable backed all the way off and the arm back against the left side of the case.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Didn't want to start a new thread so I'll post in here.

 

I recently put a torrington bearing in, and the first thing I noticed was that the threaded rod wasn't long enough. In my application, I had to thread it all the way into to the rod housing itself meaning I couldn't but the jamb nub on it. Do I need a longer rod? I know the rod going all the way in is indicative of a worn clutch, but I ordered and installed a new clutch along with the pancake mod. One thing I've noticed is that whenever I push my bike back down my driveway, the clutch puller has too much slack, but as soon as I push it forward or run it at all, it all comes back. So far, it's not really an issue, but is this bad? Should I; and where can I get a longer threaded rod? Did I fuck up somewhere when I installed it? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

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Didn't want to start a new thread so I'll post in here.

 

I recently put a torrington bearing in, and the first thing I noticed was that the threaded rod wasn't long enough. In my application, I had to thread it all the way into to the rod housing itself meaning I couldn't but the jamb nub on it. Do I need a longer rod? I know the rod going all the way in is indicative of a worn clutch, but I ordered and installed a new clutch along with the pancake mod. One thing I've noticed is that whenever I push my bike back down my driveway, the clutch puller has too much slack, but as soon as I push it forward or run it at all, it all comes back. So far, it's not really an issue, but is this bad? Should I; and where can I get a longer threaded rod? Did I fuck up somewhere when I installed it? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

that kinda sounds like something's loose in your hub/basket assy. was there any play when you were assembling it before putting the discs in? other than that, yah, some need the stock adjuster in there......did you put the ball back in it?

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Did you take the hub or basket off before installing the new clutch and pancake bearing? If so, are both thrust washers installed? This wouldn't cause the adjuster to hit the cover, however.; but it would make the adjuster stick far out of the hub.

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I decided to tear into it again and check it out. As far as I know, everything was installed correctly. The only thing I noticed was that I forgot to bend the lockwasher against the nut and the torrington bearing was on the wrong side of the flange of the adjuster housing. I still have to screw the threaded stud all the way into the housing and can't put the nut on it, but so far I haven't noticed any adverse affects.

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So I took my bike out today to make sure everything was on the up and up and I noticed something odd (since I've installed the pancake bearing fix) . Whenever I'm coasting in gear with the clutch pulled, I noticed that my clutch will have way too much slack after I put it in neutral, but if I rev it up enough, the clutch will go back to its original state. I'm assuming the adjusted is threading itself out and in since it doesn't have a jamb nut on it. Obviously, I need a longer adjuster rod. Any ideas where I can get a hold of one? Can I put the torrington bearing itself the stock adjuster housing? I'm going to start tearing my hair out over this damn thing.

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you might have the body on backwards.......if it's the kind with 2 cutouts on the shaft for a wrench, the cutout goes to the inside of the pressure plate, and you have to remove it to adjust. ayt least that's how mine, and all the older ones are.

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