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Posted

wassup hq.. ya might of rememeber me as the fool who put the oil inb the crankcase to prevent rusting bearings anmd didnt take the oilk out and did the wehole build.. well yea that me.. wassup again.. well most oif the oil is gone it doesnt smoke as bad as it use to....its gettin there.. well as ya might know i did a top end rebuild wiseco pro lite 65.00 everything else is stock besides the fmf pipes...

.. ok. well i just install my tors eliminator.. tap the two carbs for the idle kit.. install v force 3s and i threw in some reed spacers i had laying around yes i used 6 gaskets in total someone told me about it and i caught it quick... anyhow this thing takes 100 kicks to start it now.. i have some air bubbles coming out of the tube on the bowls.. both bowls leaking gas u can say. i try to open and look inside it looks good i try to bend the bowls downward some and it seem to leak alot less..im 1-1/2 out on the idle mix screws.. and im about 1 1/2 out also on the idle kit from the tors..when i dop get it to start it crackles and pops in every rpm. it wont idle for it dear life. itll rev all the way up but popping and cracking... it has a 280 jet in it with brand new needles.. how ever when i did the jet swap and use the fmf needle i notice there were about 2 inches longer then the fctory needle.. should i try moving the clip downward a notch. its in the 3rd clip.. has like 7 spots on each needle.i also order a timing plate and the puller for flywheel.. but i couldnt seem to get the flywheel off and fucked up the puller...i check my pickup gap and its more then .010 maybe like 020 or so...the flywheel seems to be ok a lil dirty but, itds still round and both tabs are still on the flywheel .. lol. but yeah man this thing wont run man it runs but pops everywhere.........any help anybody. im running 93oct 32.1 castor..

Posted

A couple of quick things to check come to mind. Check to see if your slides are in correctly. Look into the filter side of the carb and you should see a half moon shape on the bottom of the slides. Also check to make sure the bowls are on the correct carbs. The bowl with the brass pin in the bottow of the bowl should be on the carb with the choke. Next check to see if the choke tube is hooked up between the carbs. There is a little black vacuum tube that connects the two carbs together.

Posted

:shootself: u know what come to look at my slides are in backwards..does the idle screw with the tors kit push against the ramp on the slide? cuz if so then there in right or is it possible to reverse thwem and still have a ramp to push against on the slide?

from the air filter side which is the front of the carb . it should be flat on that side or vice versa?

Posted

The idle screws should sit on the ramp part of the slide, and the cutouts should face towards the back. It is possible that you may have swapped the slides side to side, as I remember they are unqiue to each carb. Also, keep an eye on the bowls, they are also unqiue to each carb, there is one with a small brass jet in the very bottom and that goes on the side that has the choke knob.

 

Good luck, carbs can be a bit troublesome until you get them figured out, but it's not that bad, and the thing should scream once you get them dialed in.

Posted
:headbang::headbang::cheers::clap: thanks guys. the shee is screaming now.it starts up 1 kick cold with no choke.... i had rthe slides in back wards.. it doesnt smoke any more it doesnt sputter anymore it idles like a champ. if finds the idle like champ after a full throttle pull..... without u guys ill be spending big money with a atv mechanic.... thnx guys.. ill keep ya posted on everything else.. looking for a cool head, a billet impellar,and a modified shift star.. i have a timing plate also but i couldnt get trhe flywheel off.. and bhq tips on removing the flywheel.. i order the puller and fucked the puller......
Posted

:headbang::headbang::cheers::clap: thanks guys. the shee is screaming now.it starts up 1 kick cold with no choke.... i had rthe slides in back wards.. it doesnt smoke any more it doesnt sputter anymore it idles like a champ. if finds the idle like champ after a full throttle pull..... without u guys ill be spending big money with a atv mechanic.... thnx guys.. ill keep ya posted on everything else.. looking for a cool head, a billet impellar,and a modified shift star.. i have a timing plate also but i couldnt get trhe flywheel off.. and bhq tips on removing the flywheel.. i order the puller and fucked the puller......

 

Good to hear!! With the puller, you have to clean the threads on the flywheel really good so the puller goes all the way in. If the threads don't go all the way in you'll either fuck up the flywheel puller or the flywheel.

Posted

You should probably just take the pusher bolt out of the puller, tighten the puller as much as possible, install the pusher bolt with hand tools. DO NOT use an impact on it. Get the pusher bolt good and tight then whack it with a 2lb hammer. Just a good swift blow will do at the head of the pusher. The flywheel will sometimes shoot off the crank, other times it will just bump off a 1/4", then just keep tightening the pusher bolt until you can pull it by hand.

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