KickStartMyHeart Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 I just got my new banshee frame back from powdercoat and I need to tap the holes to get all the powdercoat outta the holes. What pitch are the threads? I know I need a 6,8, and a 10 mm, but wasn't sure what the pitch was so I know what tap to use. If anyone knows, please chime in. Thanks guys, Imma post pics of the build process. I bought a new frame to have powdercoated so I can take a part off of mine and put it directly onto the new frame. I figured this was the easiest way to do it. If anyone also has any experience with a build and has any tricks to tell feel free. I'm not sure where to start though. Should I start at the front and work my way back or put the engine in first and then all the suspension? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crustydemon Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 I think they are mostly 1.25mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doorslammer Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 you'll probably need M6x1 M8x1.25 i didnt think there were any 10mm threads on the chassis? my last build i made into a roller, suspension wheels radiator, then motor. put it together the opposite way it came apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 you'll probably need M6x1 M8x1.25 i didnt think there were any 10mm threads on the chassis? my last build i made into a roller, suspension wheels radiator, then motor. put it together the opposite way it came apart. X2 except there are M10s for the foot pegs. I am pretty sure the pitch on those are 1.50mm. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellar Performance Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 m6x1 m8x1.25 m10x1.25 (foot pegs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted December 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 m6x1 m8x1.25 m10x1.25 (foot pegs) Azcustoms, you are correct. I looked in my manual and that is the size and pitch for all bolts on the chassis. I made some progress this morning, but got hung up on the tierods. I took my front tires off and got the shocks and a arms undone and was just gonna move everything to the new frame. I kept the castlenut on the tierod end at the steering shaft and beat on it with a rubber malet and couldn't get it off. Keep beating on it or is there a trick to get the tie rods off?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellar Performance Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 What I have found to be the most effective way without having a seperation tool, is to use a brass or lead mallet, and tap the side of the tie rod end or the tie rod plate while applying pressure to the tie rod (seperating). You can use a normal steel hammer as well, just do not smack it. All it needs is some small impacts (vibration) to knock it loose from it seat. Just be gentle and it will come right apart without any damage. A rubber mallet is absorbing the impact, so it really will not be effective. The same works for balljoints. Just some gentle taps, and everything comes right apart. Almost every time we try using a balljoints seperator, it just tears the boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted December 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 What I have found to be the most effective way without having a seperation tool, is to use a brass or lead mallet, and tap the side of the tie rod end or the tie rod plate while applying pressure to the tie rod (seperating). You can use a normal steel hammer as well, just do not smack it. All it needs is some small impacts (vibration) to knock it loose from it seat. Just be gentle and it will come right apart without any damage. A rubber mallet is absorbing the impact, so it really will not be effective. The same works for balljoints. Just some gentle taps, and everything comes right apart. Almost every time we try using a balljoints seperator, it just tears the boots. I never thought about that. When I replaced the tie rod ends a while back, I used a rubber mallet so I wouldn't mess up the threads. I loosened the castle nut at hit the castlenut with a rubber mallet. AZ customs, do you have a phone # I could call if I don't have any luck? I'm very intimidated by the swingarm and rear axle disassembly. I have a yamaha manual, but sometimes that isn't very useful to me. If someone can explain it prior to me tearing into it, that helps me a lot more. You can PM ur # if you would like to, if not, I totally understand. Thank you for your help thus far. I will keep this thread updated with the progress and pics of the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellar Performance Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 You can usually reach me at my shop number (520) 481-6946. I am there most of the time, but the office hours are Mon-Fri, 9-5 (Mountain Time Zone). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted December 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 You can usually reach me at my shop number (520) 481-6946. I am there most of the time, but the office hours are Mon-Fri, 9-5 (Mountain Time Zone). Well its time for an update. I got all the a-arms and shocks, tie rods and hubs all transferred over to the new frame. As of right now, I am working on the electrical. I have everything unplugged and the CDI box transferred over to the new frame. The engine is getting transferred tomorrow morning. At that time I will move the steering stem and handlebars over to the new frame and plug everything back in. The hardest part so far believe it or not was unplugging the CDI box!! Holy shit!!...I don't thing it has ever been unplugged and took longer than expected. I will snap some photos tomorrow to show progress. If anyone has any insider info on pulling an engine feel free to chime in. Im just gonna start taking bolts out and pulling the motor as of right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Well its time for an update. I got all the a-arms and shocks, tie rods and hubs all transferred over to the new frame. As of right now, I am working on the electrical. I have everything unplugged and the CDI box transferred over to the new frame. The engine is getting transferred tomorrow morning. At that time I will move the steering stem and handlebars over to the new frame and plug everything back in. The hardest part so far believe it or not was unplugging the CDI box!! Holy shit!!...I don't thing it has ever been unplugged and took longer than expected. I will snap some photos tomorrow to show progress. If anyone has any insider info on pulling an engine feel free to chime in. Im just gonna start taking bolts out and pulling the motor as of right now. The engine is in! Actually the engine was really easy. I left everything attached (electrical, clutch cable etc. ) i zip tied all of it together and pulled it out complete. I had my friend there helping me muscle it out, so it made it a hella lot easier. Today the swingarm and axle are going in. I think its easier to go a step at a time. This is my first complete build and honestly its not that bad. I tried attaching a pic, but its too big and I'm not that computer savy to shrink the file down. So if anyone knows how, lemme know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Upload your pict to www.imageshack.us resize it to fit message boards and hit upload. Then copy the top link once it is done. Open a reply on BHQ and then click the botton two over to the right from the smiley face above where you type. Paste the link in there and your done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Upload your pict to www.imageshack.us resize it to fit message boards and hit upload. Then copy the top link once it is done. Open a reply on BHQ and then click the botton two over to the right from the smiley face above where you type. Paste the link in there and your done. Ok, I got a dilemna!!! I got the steering shaft in and all the throttle and clutch cables connected and I realize that the steering stop on the frame is a lil bent and doesn't catch real well (allowing the front wheels to turn further than what they should). Now, with all that in and new steering stem bearings, how do I bend it back without taking all that stuff out? Also, with everything in and assembled, my handlebars will turn the full distance to the right, but when I turn it to the left, it gets tight and won't turn the entire way. I checked all my cables and everything and they have plenty of clearance. What could it be and is there something I'm missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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