White97Banshee Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 I know this has probably been covered millions of times but I have looked everywhere and cannot find a straight, definite answer on the subject: Does it matter what oil to use during break-in? I just put a new set of rings on and had em honed and gotta do the break-in procedure (also would like some insight on that) and I have been told by many people that it is a no-no to use any synthetic oil (Castor 927, Klotz, etc).. Is this true? I will be running Klotz Supertechniplate 80/20 blend and all the dealers I've spoken to say to use Yamalube and that the Klotz will be bad for the engine during break-in.. If someone could clear some things up for me that would be great! Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
278 Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 You want to run a a good quality oil in your motor. Yamalube, castor 927, and Klotz supertechniplate are all good ones that people run I'd say the 2 most popular are the castor or Yamalube. Use the same oil for break in that your going to run in your motor all the time for example... If your planning on running the Klotz, then use the klotz during break in. As far as break in goes, everyone has a different way of doing it. But what I do is fire it up and run it till it warms up to aperating temp. (usually like 5-10 minutes) but dont let it idle and dont rev it way up just vary the throttle. I repeat this about 4 or 5 times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 Run what ever oil at what ever ratio you plan on running after break in. Your Yamaha Dealer does realize that R2 is a Semi Synthetic righ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White97Banshee Posted December 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 Yami dealers round here all hire a buncha toolsheds lol they know nothing really about 2 strokes at all.. or bikes in general for that matter. I'll ask them about say a chain tensioner and they don't know what that is.. But thanks for the info guys! I'll break it in running Klotz at 40:1 like I usually run it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 Yami dealers round here all hire a buncha toolsheds lol they know nothing really about 2 strokes at all.. or bikes in general for that matter. I'll ask them about say a chain tensioner and they don't know what that is.. But thanks for the info guys! I'll break it in running Klotz at 40:1 like I usually run it. Yep just do a couple heat cycles, re torque the jugs, and head. Take it eazy for the first 5 gallons. Then ride it like you stole it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee199 Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 I just rebuilt my top end about a month ago and ran Amsoil Interceptor oil and almost 10 tanks later, no problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 I just rebuilt my top end about a month ago and ran Amsoil Interceptor oil and almost 10 tanks later, no problems My last top end I broke in with Quaker State oil from wal mart. Running any oil over another type is purely preferance. The only way your going to lock up an engine due to oil is when you FORGET to put any oil at all in it. I love the post where people claim/blame there engine failure due to what brand of oil they were runnig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 My last top end I broke in with Quaker State oil from wal mart. Running any oil over another type is purely preferance. The only way your going to lock up an engine due to oil is when you FORGET to put any oil at all in it. I love the post where people claim/blame there engine failure due to what brand of oil they were runnig. Unless you're using Crisco Or Mazola, type of oil is hardly, if ever the failure. Lack of oil...sure as hell is though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 I hate it when my oil makes my tires go flat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 I know this has probably been covered millions of times but I have looked everywhere and cannot find a straight, definite answer on the subject: Does it matter what oil to use during break-in? I just put a new set of rings on and had em honed and gotta do the break-in procedure (also would like some insight on that) and I have been told by many people that it is a no-no to use any synthetic oil (Castor 927, Klotz, etc).. Is this true? I will be running Klotz Supertechniplate 80/20 blend and all the dealers I've spoken to say to use Yamalube and that the Klotz will be bad for the engine during break-in.. If someone could clear some things up for me that would be great! Thanks in advance! I have heard that as well. I even went through the trouble of breaking it in on cheap oil that I use for my weedeater. I don't mess with that anymore. I have been told by several builders to just break it in on the same ratio and oil that you will be running, as mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 as stated, you will get different opinnions on break-in procedure. i'll give you a little insight as to how ring seating works......everyone knows that the rings will basically just cut into the crosshatch and form to each-other. now, what happens and how it does or doesn't cut is a different storry.......first, the rings cut by pressure pushing down around the inside of the ring. this is what the little chamfer on the inside of the ring is for. it applies a great amount of pressure while under a load only. unloaded, the rings apply less than 12psi against the cylinder, which is basically nothing. when you free-rev, or idle, it begains dulling the rings. now, the "take it easy" approach comes from a few different things...first, the older coarse crosshatch hones give off alot of material durring break-in and will be too much material at once to remove. also, there is cam/gears, etc to break in in 4strokes, and it's just a general engine habbit. and, there is the heat cycles to consider in order to retorque the head. now, i have my way of breaking it in....and i'm not the only one, but here it goes if your interested..........do your 2 quick heat cycles, retorque the head, and then go out and do a couple plug chops. your rings should be near fully seated when you are done with a couple passes. the heat cycles should take care of the excess material on a coarse hone, and should still be relatively sharp on a finer hone. it is my opinion that babying it for a tankfull is about the worst thing for ring seating, with all the free-running and almost no load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 it is my opinion that babying it for a tankfull is about the worst thing for ring seating, with all the free-running and almost no load. I agree. I heat cylced my motor this year on purge gas @ 28:1 4-5 times then took it to the track on methanol and beat on it all year. I smoked my crank last race of the year (it was way past due) but the pistons still look great...and the motor is on it's third year on the nikasil.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White97Banshee Posted December 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 Thanks for all the replies guys! They all really helped a LOT. I like the idea of doing a few plug chops and having it almost be done! I've had people tell me to run 3-5 tanks through and keep it off the pipes to break it in (like that'll ever happen!). I'm taking the 'Shee to Juniper dunes in eastern WA tomorrow and it's gonna be freezing cold and some good times as well haha. We'll see how well my bros newly built 240 blaster will keep up now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 don't forget to pre-jet for the ride, to account for the cold.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White97Banshee Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 (edited) Haha I know this sounds lazy and lame but I keep my 'Shee jetted 2 or so sizes too rich just so I don't have to bother with it when I go riding in the cold like that. And after I broke her in, she ran GREAT! Pulled real hard on a 660 with a high comp piston, stage 2 cams, pipe, k&n and jetting. Also left a piped/filtered YFZ in the dust. Kinda hard on the launch though with 1 tooth down on the front sprocket for treeshots.. The front end doesn't like to stay on the ground! Edited December 6, 2009 by White97Banshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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