J-Madd Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 dont know anything bout lectrons but not a fan of the gay ass fucking plastic idle screws in $350 in keihin carbs.bout a cockslap if u ask me. I agree with that. (Packard Lectrons are $600 btw) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 If you put a power jet on a Keihn and have the right needle in there, I don't see why the lectron is easier to tune. Simple...because even with the power jet you still have a main jet to worry about, a pilot jet and an air screw. Lectrons have none of these. I will agree with BigBoybanshee, if you're not drag racing...don't do it. I have a set for two years now with zero problems. I take that back, I did have my fuel pump overflowing one of the carbs after the first year. I am lazy and instead of putting a dual feed pingle in place and putting gravity needle and seats, I just went to a smaller pump. Once I got my carbs dialed in (took about half the day at the track, being a Lectron newbie) I've had to adjust them twice. Once when I got my motor back from HJR (his porting on my cub likes more fuel) and once for the last race this year in October (it was easily 30 degrees colder than our normal racing temps)... Otherwise...you can ask anyone at the track, my bike is always crisp, strong running and consistent. That being said...you'll get more support from Keihins or Mikunis. They're all good carbs. I really like my Lectrons, easy to tune and understand...and as I've said before, you not only have to understand how the metering rod works, but you MUST have the right one. Otherwise, you'll throw them in the trash. As far as the quality/hardware, mine are a few years old from Packard, top notch. I did replace the three screws up top with some phillips...but that fix did cost me about 75 cents. I hate slotted screws, they should be outlawed... I've had mine two years, love 'em...you'd have to pry them from my cold dead fingers. But...they are not for everyone...especially if you're not very good with carbs/engine tuning to begin with (Not pointed at anyone, just a broad statement...) camatv and one other guy told me in a single paragraph how to tune them (they both practically said the same thing, word for word). They're easy peezy lemon squeezy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 A lot of guys only recommend these carbs on drag bikes, because they usually dont have them tuned right. We tune em on the crank dyno, and it takes a little tweaking once in the bike. We see solid numbers that indicate the lectrons make 20% more power on the bottom end than the keihin and mikuni carbs do on all setups. It comes down to having the right needle taper though. Not something that most people get mastered. Drag applications only make it necessary to have 2 sections of the taper right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Amen. I believe in the science of the carb with the slide/metering rod being in the "shit storm" instead of before it. In other words...the needle/metering rod is exposed directly to the manifold pressure, instead of in front of it like a D slide, flat or round slide carb. On a trail/duner bike, needle selection and adjustment is even more critical....not many have the patience for it. And needles/metering rods are not cheap, mind you. But if you have the cabbage and are good at tuning or have a dyno near by to get your guideline/basline...I say go for it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Simple...because even with the power jet you still have a main jet to worry about, a pilot jet and an air screw. Lectrons have none of these. I will agree with BigBoybanshee, if you're not drag racing...don't do it. I have a set for two years now with zero problems. I take that back, I did have my fuel pump overflowing one of the carbs after the first year. I am lazy and instead of putting a dual feed pingle in place and putting gravity needle and seats, I just went to a smaller pump. Once I got my carbs dialed in (took about half the day at the track, being a Lectron newbie) I've had to adjust them twice. Once when I got my motor back from HJR (his porting on my cub likes more fuel) and once for the last race this year in October (it was easily 30 degrees colder than our normal racing temps)... Otherwise...you can ask anyone at the track, my bike is always crisp, strong running and consistent. That being said...you'll get more support from Keihins or Mikunis. They're all good carbs. I really like my Lectrons, easy to tune and understand...and as I've said before, you not only have to understand how the metering rod works, but you MUST have the right one. Otherwise, you'll throw them in the trash. As far as the quality/hardware, mine are a few years old from Packard, top notch. I did replace the three screws up top with some phillips...but that fix did cost me about 75 cents. I hate slotted screws, they should be outlawed... I've had mine two years, love 'em...you'd have to pry them from my cold dead fingers. But...they are not for everyone...especially if you're not very good with carbs/engine tuning to begin with (Not pointed at anyone, just a broad statement...) camatv and one other guy told me in a single paragraph how to tune them (they both practically said the same thing, word for word). They're easy peezy lemon squeezy. RE:tuning I was making the assumption that the pilots and mains were already pretty close on the Keihns, then just dialing in with the power jet. Main jet size, imo is not very critical with the power jet installed (as long as it is not too small), imo. I ran keihns on my 14 mil drilled out to 0.118" and the same ones drilled out to 0.125" (drilled them out by mistake, sort of - long story) and it ran identical e.t.s at the track even though the big difference in the main. Just leaned the needles out, and tuned with the power jet. I'm gonna run the Lectrons on my 10 mil anyway, but I'm still a hater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 I love mine and I think they are easy to tune. Camatv chewed me out cuz I still had my needles super rich when he saw and rode my bike. I leaned em out a bit and my 40HVs rock on my 4mil cub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 hehe well to say it was a lil rich i think is an understatement!!!. you were shooting raw alky all over those poor fools that were behind you on the road!> heck i couldnt even see straight for about 20 minutes at the campsite when you left !! you will get it figured out. if you go to lean just raise the needle up a bit!. i have got my 485 set up on alky 41.3/44's it smokes like a Gas bike now. its super crisp dosent load up at all. dont even have to "clean it out" on the line. the mileage gets a lot better when you get the alky bikes set up right. come to think of it i did notice that the old bucket gas 36mm ones i used on my budget built 350 bike DID have a lot of bottom end for being a bigger carb with a big ass port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 Todd...maybe you better stick to the 50's and 90's bud... LOL. J/K. I will say my bike has better bottom and mid (yeah, I know it's a drag bike) with the Lectrons than the PWKs it had. The bike felt slower because the top end hit wasn't as harsh, it was just smooth....but the time slips don't lie. Todd, on the needles go 1/4 to half turn at a time inwards (clockwise if you're looking at the slide/needle from the bottom) until it cleans out. You should be able to get your needle 90% close without even moving forward a foot. 1/4 to half turn is a LOT. Just make sure you have a set of digital calipers on stand by to make sure the needles are the same length. I try to get mine withing .03 mm of each other... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arm1 Posted July 27, 2022 Report Share Posted July 27, 2022 yamaha banshee lectron 34mm metering rod length Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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