forSHEEzee Posted August 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 Compression test on both sides. If that's fine...figure out if a carb is plugged up, if one side is not getting spark, etc. Ok, after my compression test i'm getting 90 psi on both sides :: What now? Is it the rings? Do I need a whole new top end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 6, 2009 Report Share Posted August 6, 2009 If you're doing the compression test correctly, and with a good, quality tester...yes, tear down time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forSHEEzee Posted August 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 If you're doing the compression test correctly, and with a good, quality tester...yes, tear down time. I borrowed it from autozone...Is that good? what am i looking at as far as rebuilding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankieSquid Posted August 7, 2009 Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 dude you got to make sure your doing the compression test right. When you have the compression tester in keep kicking till the needle wont move anymore. I had to kick for a good moment for me to get a good honest reading. Theres a thread on here somewhere on the proper way to compression test ur shee. Good luck bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forSHEEzee Posted August 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 dude you got to make sure your doing the compression test right. When you have the compression tester in keep kicking till the needle wont move anymore. I had to kick for a good moment for me to get a good honest reading. Theres a thread on here somewhere on the proper way to compression test ur shee. Good luck bro And what reading were you getting, ended up with? I did try it a couple of times to recheck and got the same reading at 90psi..but i will try it again to make sure cus i'm still hoping i dnt have to tear it up. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washburn Posted August 7, 2009 Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 You have to push the throttle in all the way while your kicking to get an accurate compression reading, and you have to have the rite adaptor it should be a little shorter than the spark plug NOT LONGER! But now is the time foryou to rebuild and do everything rite. When your done with the rebuild Learn how to properly jet your carbs, keep your air filter clean make sure your not sucking mud/water/dirt into your motor, and it will last you a good long time. First I recomend buying a Clymers manual, then get a bucket with seprate compartments for all of the nuts and bolts you take off that sucker and label all of them. Thats how you learn. Keep it clean.Take everything to a reputable mechanic IE your Pistons,gaskets,head,clyinders to get bored and honed, and your crank and have him look at it to see if it needs rebuilt. Take your time and do it rite. Its pays off in the end, believe me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 7, 2009 Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 you have to have the rite adaptor it should be a little shorter than the spark plug NOT LONGER! It should be the same length as the spark plug threads. The gauge does not compensate for combustion chamber volume, it gives a true cranking compression reading. If the fitting is shorter, it could account for at least a cc of volume. 1 cc of volume can increase/decrease your cranking compression 8 to 15 PSI.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forSHEEzee Posted August 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 It should be the same length as the spark plug threads. The gauge does not compensate for combustion chamber volume, it gives a true cranking compression reading. If the fitting is shorter, it could account for at least a cc of volume. 1 cc of volume can increase/decrease your cranking compression 8 to 15 PSI.... i know the thread on the guage is a little shorter but not by much. If i am getting 92 psi should the engine at least start up? The carbs are clean and properly jetted now. What should i try before opening it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted August 7, 2009 Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 If it starts, it'll probably run poorly. And with that low of PSI...it'll be a real bear to start warm. Squirt some two stroke oil down the spark plug holes. Try the compression test again... The oil will help seal the cylinders, should spike the compression test. If the tester is worth a crap (Actron testers are garbage, I use a Snap On, but Matco, MAC or Craftsman make a fine one) 90 PSI is simply rebuild time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forSHEEzee Posted August 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 If it starts, it'll probably run poorly. And with that low of PSI...it'll be a real bear to start warm. Squirt some two stroke oil down the spark plug holes. Try the compression test again... The oil will help seal the cylinders, should spike the compression test. If the tester is worth a crap (Actron testers are garbage, I use a Snap On, but Matco, MAC or Craftsman make a fine one) 90 PSI is simply rebuild time. OK so its time for a rebuild. So where should I start? I want to do as much as I can on my own and I'm also on a budget of about 500. I do have a manual for guidence. The SHEE is a 2004 with not to many hours on it. Besides the FMF pipes and silencers, boost bottle and k&n that just got put on bout a week ago the bike is all original. It ran hard and I know it crapped out cus I ran it too lean. How do I tell if I need to bore it or just hone it? What kind and size pistons sound right? Is it possible for it just to need new rings? Thanks Again for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forSHEEzee Posted August 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 I'm taking my cylinders to a local machine shop. Its my first rebuild what size should i bore it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 7, 2009 Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 I'm taking my cylinders to a local machine shop. Its my first rebuild what size should i bore it? holly fucking confusing post, batman. only bore it out as much as it needs to freshen it up. the guy diong the bore/hone should tell you how much it needs. what's your elevation? what do your cylinders look like? have you cleaned your carbs out real good? sounds like a plugged pilot on the left carb. if that side cooked from running lean, there would be uneven compression. how old is the gas in the tank? i'm not saying it's not time for a rebuild; you're most likely due, but i think there's another problem going on that you need to track down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forSHEEzee Posted August 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2009 holly fucking confusing post, batman. only bore it out as much as it needs to freshen it up. the guy diong the bore/hone should tell you how much it needs. what's your elevation? what do your cylinders look like? have you cleaned your carbs out real good? sounds like a plugged pilot on the left carb. if that side cooked from running lean, there would be uneven compression. how old is the gas in the tank? i'm not saying it's not time for a rebuild; you're most likely due, but i think there's another problem going on that you need to track down LOL i'm just as confused, thanks for the reply. My elevation is 4000ft. I did the compression test a couple of times cus it seemed strange to be getting the same on both sides, thats the reason I havnt opened it up yet so i dnt know what my cylinders look like. The gas is only about 4 days old. And yes I cleaned my carbs real good and the pilots are brand new. What else can I chek before rebuilding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 8, 2009 Report Share Posted August 8, 2009 LOL i'm just as confused, thanks for the reply. My elevation is 4000ft. I did the compression test a couple of times cus it seemed strange to be getting the same on both sides, thats the reason I havnt opened it up yet so i dnt know what my cylinders look like. The gas is only about 4 days old. And yes I cleaned my carbs real good and the pilots are brand new. What else can I chek before rebuilding? new pilots can still get plugged. u run a small piece of wire through the pilot passage, or compressed air? u cleaned when it happened? check float heights? check reeds. good blue spark when you kick it? set pickup gap? i know guys having to clean the carbs as much as 5 times, and needing wire and compressed air to finally get all the junk you can't see cleared out. 90psi isn't too bad for 4k altitude. still, go buy the 12dollar head gasket and take a look @ your cylinders/pistons. u have 27.5's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted August 8, 2009 Report Share Posted August 8, 2009 X-2 on confusing post . Compression tester was " a little, not much" shorter does not tell anyone much. 1/8" or 1/2"? Could make a lot of difference on test. Did you put pipes on then begin jetting? If you've done everything else suggested so far take head off and do visual inspection. Post what you find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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