rmarsh18 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 my banshee just doesnt make good power..it wont get up in the pipe...it just cruises around ..im in missouri with an elev of about 1000 ft...it has boost bottle cool head cpi pipes v force reeds and possibly a pistons....i 340 mains and 25 pilots open k&ns..the more i keep messing with it the more i m leaning towards an ignition issue as opposed to fuel choke makes it a lil worse....but it doesnt load up like too much fuel it just doesnt make power...thanks for any information...ps tryin to make the dunes the 24th so any help would b great..thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R. Rollins Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 These are "roughly" what I do when I have problems like that. 1st; I would make sure that my fuel mixture was 32:1 or maybe up to 40:1 2nd; I would check the plugs with a plug chop proceedure so as to ensure that your jetting is dead on. 3rd; I would check the cables and make sure that they are both lifting the carb sliders at exactly the same time. 4th I would do the below listed stuff. ________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________ Try and purchase yourself a Factory service manual or a clymer manual for directions on troubleshooting proceedures. Order yourself a good carb sync tool from fasttoys for $50.00 or E-bay for around $35.00. The tool can be seen in the top of the videos section of the banshee HQ for carb syncronization proceedures. I would start with a good cleaning then, take the carbs off and clean them up good. I would think that it is best to have a ground floor cleaning so as to eliminate alot of other things that you have mentioned. Next I would check all orifices in the carbs for any debris caught in any areas while cleaning. Dry them off well and put them back together carefully. check the floats to be sure that they are set the same and according to the book level. Note: As long as the carbs are off you can inspect the reeds on the cylinders. Put in two new plugs and tighten the carbs back onto the boots. Set the carb air screws and idle screws the same for initial settings according to the manual. Replace the carb tops on both carbs and ensure that they are set so that they lift at exactly the same instant when the thumb throttle is depressed. Hook up the fuel lines Check both plugs for spark first. If you have a good strong blue spark on both sides then install the plugs again and start the bike. Adjust the syncronization with your new carb sync tool and trouble shoot further for other symptoms now. You have just eliminated a big portion of most troubles with your banshee. If you are still having troubles after that take detailed notes and get back with the HQ. Ill bet that a simple cleaning and adjustments will clear it out if its carb related. This always works for me, but some of the other really detailed Banshee Masters here could dissagree on the order I did my things listed here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmarsh18 Posted April 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 i have ohmed out my coil cuz i feel that it isnt getting a good hot spark..like the coil is weak.....but i dont get a reading from coil to end of either cap...i was pretty sure i should get something.. but i dont..also if i pull off spark wire i get like 5.3 from end to end but nothing if i hook it back up to coil...any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R. Rollins Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 That would hack me off as well. Well do you get any spark when you place a plug in the cap and hold it next to the side of the cylinder and try and crank on it? Check both sides and if you only see a faint spark then you most likely have a very weak coil. You may also pull the stator cover and check to see that it is nice and dry and has not been drowning in water from some previous owner running it through a river and corroding the stator assembly really bad. Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2strokecook Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 my banshee just doesnt make good power..it wont get up in the pipe...it just cruises around ..im in missouri with an elev of about 1000 ft...it has boost bottle cool head cpi pipes v force reeds and possibly a pistons....i 340 mains and 25 pilots open k&ns..the more i keep messing with it the more i m leaning towards an ignition issue as opposed to fuel choke makes it a lil worse....but it doesnt load up like too much fuel it just doesnt make power...thanks for any information...ps tryin to make the dunes the 24th so any help would b great..thanks don't mean to jump in off subject but saw you were from missiouri, i up here by washington mo, you any where around i do have some used eletrics around if you close. good luck, where you ride? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Building my First Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Check the pulsor coil gap. Throw that boost bottle away. If that doesn't do it, it muct be those CPI pipes, especially if they small bore infrrames, I would trade those for a good set of Pro Circuits, I have a set! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Check the pulsor coil gap. Throw that boost bottle away. If that doesn't do it, it muct be those CPI pipes, especially if they small bore infrrames, I would trade those for a good set of Pro Circuits, I have a set! i gree with the pickup gap, but the rest of that crap is opinion. ok, i didn't quite understan how you got the 5.3 reading. was that the wire? primary should be .28-.38 (+ to -) secondary should be 4700-7100 (either cap to ground, or cap to cap, depending on the year) you can measure the secondary right at the coil, too. it's probably just in the jetting. do a plug chop to see where you're at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darthwall Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 ya definatly check the plugs and do a compression test on it to see where you are sitting! with those pipes you probably wont have alot of bottom end but get it about half throttle and it should open up alot what carbs are you running and is there any port work done to it? I had some problems kinda like what your going through and it turned out to be that one carb was washing a plug out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbcmudtruck Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 Where at in MO are you located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Building my First Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 i gree with the pickup gap, but the rest of that crap is opinion. Yea I was just talking shit. The CPI's are probably the most sought after pipes for the she, everybody is looking for a set including me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 With coil disconnected you should read in the range of 4-7 ohms roughly from plug cap to plug cap,I have 5 diffrent bikes in my garage rite now they read 5.3-5.5 ohms,If you get 5.3 with wires off replace wires and caps with aftermarket,just make sure wires are made for banshee type coil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 With coil disconnected you should read in the range of 4-7 ohms roughly from plug cap to plug cap,I have 5 diffrent bikes in my garage rite now they read 5.3-5.5 ohms,If you get 5.3 with wires off replace wires and caps with aftermarket,just make sure wires are made for banshee type coil ok? that must be a typo, or you didn't notice the little (k) icon on your meter. i just went out and double checked, and got the following- each cap >6k Ohms coil secondary ~5k Ohms cap to cap ~18k Ohms caps to ground = nothing if you cannot find wire- it's just standard solid core ignition wire. an auto parts wearhouse should have a spool. haha "building"- right over my head :shoothead: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeDan Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 ok? that must be a typo, or you didn't notice the little (k) icon on your meter. i just went out and double checked, and got the following- each cap >6k Ohms coil secondary ~5k Ohms cap to cap ~18k Ohms caps to ground = nothing if you cannot find wire- it's just standard solid core ignition wire. an auto parts wearhouse should have a spool. haha "building"- right over my head :shoothead: your are way rich on your mains IMO. i ran cpi pipes,pods,with stock carbs for 2 seasons. 300-310 mains 27.5 pilots,dyno jet or toomey needles middle clip Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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