Calling all modified banshee owners

[BenBB]

Not surprisingly I'd put the money in the Banshee (this is a Banshee site after all heh), with the money you're talking about spending it will blow the doors off the competition...

 

IMO if you're happy with the power the porting can wait, in this game the stakes are always getting higher so I'd save that for when the thumpers go big. Judging by what you said about your riding areas and conditions I would change your motor list to:

 

Fresh topend w/Wisecos (lighter forged pistons than stock)

Noss head OR shave stock head 30 thousandths (either way up the compression for lowend hit)

Timing plate or key or slot the stock plate (I prefer the free route but timing advance IS good)

T5's good choice there, opinions vary but they are good along with others

Clutch-only if it's slipping now or you notice it after doing the above, I wouldn't worry about it yet

Reeds (skip the impeller and shift star, even cheapish Boyeson dual-stage are better than stock)

Air filter adapter plate (I have an UMI Racing one they used to be cheaper than others)

 

As you've already discovered the Banshee's achilles heel is handling, but it wasn't designed to carve. I wouldn't fall for the 'long travel' thing, unless you're bent on the bragging rights, I don't think it'll make enough difference to merit the price premium. Here again you have alot of options depending on your budget:

 

Gforce +4 axle (definitely go wider on the axle)

+2 or +3 a-arms with Elkas (lots of options, Elka is a good choice among others for shocks)

Revalve rear shock (definitely better than buying new with little to no noticable difference BUT I'd only do it if your rear shock is leaking or blown or just rides like shit; you may also consider Elka's rear shock linkage)

+2 antivibe stem (if you're really tall and want the height it would be ok, I'd go with different bar bend instead, good grips and a steering stabilizer-again just my opinion but I think for the cost of that stem you would get better results with bars, grips and stabilizer, if you really wanted top of the line look at Flexx bars)

 

I'd take what's left, if there is any, and make sure you've got the little things covered, and the things that you might not think of, like tires/paddles (gotta get power to the ground), chain/sprockets (gearing makes a huge difference), temp gauge to keep an eye on how hot she's getting, a case saver (cheap insurance), brake pads/SS lines/YFZ dual-piston fronts (still gotta stop sometime), maybe moving the footpegs back 2" (makes a decent difference in handling), wheel/axle bearings (mod the axle bearing carrier when you change the axle so you can grease them), check the frame for cracks, helmet/goggle/boots, etc. etc. Good luck and have fun smoking the other guys

[RagunCajun]

If dont right, portwork can give your power all the way through the powerband. Increasing low end-mod as well. Mine did. That will net you more gains than any of the normal bolt ons imo. To do a top end, you need to take the juggs off anyways

[locogato11283]

id buy a yfz450 if it was me.

[ned]

benBB, thanks for the informative reply. My only reason for getting the long travel is I can get it for like 500aud more than a standard aftermarket setup.

 

Well it sounds like I'm going to be better off nodding the shee, which I'm glad is the out come cause boy do I love that sound and feel. Thanks all for your invaluable input. Watch out for my build up thread