clutch creeping

[BellicoseBanshee]

Funny you mention that...are you guys adjusting that without pushing on it? (the arm)

I always push the arm by hand...adjust it till it just separates the clutch...then back it down to align just outside the arrows lining up.

 

I learned a long time ago don't go by the clutch lever feel...lots more leverage there.

I push on mine, he does not push on his (at least that is the way he did when we assembled his engine in October, 2007). He did his last assembly without my assistance...

 

Seems to work well for me, clutch is not burned or colored, and the oil does not smell when I change it (too bad, I like the smell of burned clutch oil). Plenty of minor adjustment on the perch as well.

[shanYE west]

I dont push on mine when I adjust it.. I unhook the cable from the actuator. After I set the adjuster screw. I'll push the actuator arm and check to see where it aligns.. just for future references. Now I have the old school pancake bearing and its a real pain in the ass to adjust the clutch... I have to take the pressure plate off to make adjustments... gets old really fast. I think i'm going to buy a new one this year..

[KaosBanshee44]

I had a buddy of mine come over and shoot the shit while i installed all of mine and he helped there at the end and did the same thing Dave is talking about setting the arrow a little to the outside on the stator side. I asked the same question and gave me the answer all of you are talking about with aftermarket clutches etc.

[lunatic]

I just dont see what the clutch (7plate 8 or 10 has to do with it? If you have enough adjustment at the (pancake bearing) to adjust the actuator marks up why would it have to be any where but stock? Its only going to open (spread the clutch) so far anyways? I got a 7 plate on my 4mill, a 8plate on my cranker and a 10 plate on my big motor and i set them all the same.