mercado111

Is shipping included in these prices? Any pictures?

I have a set of 28mm pwk that I can check the jetting on if you'd like? I am at work and can not check them until I get home. I was running them on a Patriot Racing Duner port, t-5's, V-force, +4 timing, K&N clamp ons and 19cc head. I was running these at sea level so jetting will be differnt if your elevation is different. This should get you in the ball park, but I would check with you builder he should be able to help.

I have a set of 28mm pwk for sale. 175 shipped.

Ok, 175.00 shipped. Anyone?

Have a set of 28mm keihin pwk carbs and K&N filters for sale or trade. i am looking for a rear Marvin shock set up for a +12" swingarm using stock linkage. I am asking $200.00 for carbs shipped anywhere in the lower 48 or a strait up trade for the marvin shaw shock.

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I have a set of 28mm keihin pwk carbs and K&N's for $225.00 plus shipping.

I have a set of t5's for 350 plus shipping and a set of keihin 28pwk's with K&N's for 225 plus shipping.

Here are some parts off my 350 dunner. 28 mm carbs t5

Everyone will have there own opinion on who is the best. I personally have a K&T built motor and a Patriot Racing built motor. I like K&T as my builder, no disrespect to Dan. There are other that may like A&S, Packard, or Port Magic and so forth. The fact is that all the builders talked about have good reputations and build fast bikes. You should give them all a call and talk to them about what you want, time schedule, pricing and reliability.

Do you have any pictures? Who did the work, I mean put the sleeves in and cut the domes?

Trade it for a 2-stroke, just kidding. You can port the head, replace the cam or valves, or lighten the bike up.

You can use wiseco 795 long rod pistons or blaster pistons with the 115mm long rod.

Your next step should be ether some v-force reeds or get your motor ported.

Here is a link to my ebay acution. It is for a set of polished K&T +4mm drag ported cylinders, K&T cool head with 18cc domes set up for stroker, and billet intake. [url=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=43977&item=7902361636&sspagename=rvi%3A1%3A1

I thnik your right meat. I have not gotton much feed back on the 485 set up. I dont want to drop 2g's into the 485 and it not make the HP i want. I think I will save up alittle more cash and go with one of the bigger set ups. Thanks everyone for your feed back.

I was refering to alky. My 35.5mm mikuni's can be switched from gas to alky and back by replacing the dump tubes. I was running a +4mm stroker drag ported with v-force reeds, 18cc domes +8 timing and my 35.5mm worked great. You did not state that you banshee was ported, so I assume it is not. I think running that big of a carb would be a little much. If you get some port work done they might work, but get with your builder and he will recomend the right size carbs to use.

To big. You need 28-30mm or stay with stock. 38, 39, 40 are for ported motors, thats my opion. I have 28mm on my girl friends patriot racing duner port banshee. They work great. I was only running 35mm on my +4mm stock set up.

I currently run shearer inframe and mikuni 35.5 carbs with my K&T +4mm. I was thinking of lectron or some mikuni 39.5 if I go big. I have never seen a 10mm run but have heard good things. But for all of the work that has to be done to get the 10mm in a stock set up, I dont know if it would be worth it. I mean it would seem easyer to go with cheetah or t-rex.

I was think of going with A&S. I've seen some of Dan's cheetah at glamis and they rip. I think they were all 535 or bigger. I have not heard much about the 485 that is why I asked for any info on them. I have seen a couple of 421 cheetahs. I was able to beat both with my +4mm. Dont want to pay 2g for only 10 more HP if you know what I mean. In S. Cali where I get gas the price for 110 octane gas runs 4.25 and alky runs about 5.25 a gallon. Hp numbers, you should see a around an 8-10% gain in HP with alky.

The price for the 485 cheetah top end kit runs about 2g's as well. The kit includes pistons, power valves, reeds, head, domes and cylinders. A +10mm stock cylinder set up is nice , but if I am going to get a +10mm stroker and have to trench the cases,I think I would go with a cheetah 535. Since I currently have a +4mm stoker crank I would not need to purchase a new crank if I went with the 485. What I am tring find out is HP numbers for the 485 and if it is worth the money or should I save a little more money and go 510 or 535. Any information on personal cheetah set up would be great. Thanks for the help.

I am looking into purchasing the 485 cheetah set up. Does anyone run this set up, if so any feed back on HP and overall performance would be great? I am currently running stock cylinder +4mm set up with about 90hp on alky. I am looking for more HP, about 110. If the 485 can not get me in that range I would rather save the money and stay with my +4mm set up. Any information on this set up would be great. Thanks in advance.

I have a set of 28's on my ladies banshee. I ran some clear hose from one brass fitting to the other. I tried blocking them off at first, but seen a picture of another banshee with them connected. They run fine, no problems.

I have shearer on my banshee and they rip. Do a search on this forum, I think there was a topic a while back that had some dynos on shear, cpi, FMF and t-5's. Dyno runs were pulled from Planetsand.

WTB some FTZ 35.5 mm Alky carbs. Or will trade 6 month old 35mm air stikers on gas and some cash. PM me with picture and price.