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JayFressh

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Everything posted by JayFressh

  1. Stock lights included, not pictured. First reasonable offer accepted. Make offer.
  2. What would be a fair price? Take into consideration the fresh top end rebuild.
  3. I am selling my 1998 Banshee. Reason being is I built it and it has just sat since, I feel it would be better off with someone who will ride it. Details : Location : Medina Ohio $3000 OBO 98 with title in hand, 2nd owner all work done has less than 1hr due to tuning and making sure the Quad runs properly. I bought the Quad needing work in 2000, I completely stripped the bike down, rebuilt it, and serviced any worn parts. The only ride time I have on it is shake down runs for tuning and to ensure the Quad runs correctly. -Rebuilt top end with Wiseco Pro Lite pistons, new wrist pins, and bearings. -Cylinders bored and inspected at Brailey Yamaha in North Royalton Ohio -New clutches and clutch springs, -new swing arm, and a-arm bushings -new 1.75 filters -TORS removed - new Galfin coated front brake lines - TAG +1 bar clamp and TAG T2 anodized blue handlebars - ITP polished rims with ITP hole shot tires front/rear no bends or rash like new - ProCircuit platinum nickel pipes with stainless cans. - Polished case - Billet brake res cover - Polished radiator running water wetter - Billet throttle cover - new NGK BR plugs - Painted hubs, calipers, and springs - Painted frame, GM iceberg blue with metal flake. Not a spec of dirt on the frame, as it has only been ridden on pavement since rebuild/paint - Black race cut plastics, front/rear fenders removed. (Full set of blue plastics can be negotiated in the sale) - Blue Yamaha seat cover I just had the Banshee tuned up, carbs cleaned, jetted and new filters. Here is a pic of the Quad as it sat a couple years ago, nothing has changed and I will upload new pictures soon. The dirt on the tires were pre-rebuild and have since been cleaned. I am pretty firm on the price given the market and condition of the Quad, this is a get on and ride, very clean Banshee. Bike is located in Medina Ohio accessable from I71 or I77. Call or text Justin 216-374-2268, serious inquires only.
  4. # 1- Size #6 Drill Bit # 1- 6mm X .75 Tap Found the size
  5. Tag T2's for $40 is a sweet deal I run the RM low bends with Tag +1 head set works good.
  6. I broke one of my CLutch case screws. I drilled it out now I need to know what thread size it is so I can go get a metric tap and get my shee back up and running. Anyone please help me with the thread size.
  7. Does anyone know what size drill bit and tap comes with an tors removal kit? I lost the kit and need to redrill and retap another pair of stock carbs. I know enough people have done this mod, hoping someone can help me thanks.
  8. I'm looking for 1 or 2 pairs of pro series carbon fiber reeds to fit Boysen Rad valves, or if anyone knows where iI can buy them new for cheap?
  9. Post a pic of auxilary ports in the intake box, I'm not familiar with this?
  10. Are they aluminum? If so polish, if not chrome. Your are bound to fail with paint.
  11. I say go with the Wiseco's. Whatever you choose port and polish your cylinders, I can write a DIY w/pics if you want. Pretty easy if you have the right tools and some mechanical skill.
  12. I can't let this thread go on anymore with out saying throw those TORS in the trash. Tapping the idle screw can't be made any easier with a TORS elimination kit most come with a drill bit. AS for the stock airbox you have options, my favorite and least restrictive is running KN's right off the carbs no airbox. This might be a no no if you ride the trails as your taking a chance with water entering your carbs somehow. You can modify your air box and lid, I've seen a couple techniques, drilling holes in your lid, removing lid, those are DIY jobs. If you want to keep your airbox stock, you can use a Pro Flow kit or something like it, KN makes a filter with a outerwear filter to keep water and dirt out. Alot of people do with out the snorkel too. Good luck Chief, you'll be a carb master soon enough, most banshee owners are, remember with any added air flow you'll usually need to add fuel flow, that means jets, play with those and you'll know what I mean about being a carb master all to well.
  13. I have to 2 sets of modified Boysen Rad Reed Cages but when I purchased them I didn't get any harware or reeds, I picked em up for $40 a pair so couldn't bitch. Where can I get he hardware to hold the reeds in usually screws? I will post pictures of the reeds tomorrow, so you guys can give me your opinoin on which ones I should run, one pair is gutted alot of open space, the other is open but thicker walls? Post pics soon, thanks.
  14. Yeah thats what I was thinking I 'm gonna get it use it as a MX bike while I finish my drag banshee.
  15. I'm about to buy my second banshee, the price is right $1400, for a 2000, If I remember correctly they did make a red and white banshee in 2000? I want to verify this though, I figure the engine serial #'s should have some code pertaining to the year? Also I have my 98 down to the frame and can't seem to see locate frame #'s, anyone know where they are? And if they have any information pertaining to year? Any other information that would help me determine if this is a 2000 would help. Now for the catch the current owner claims he has no title, I know 2000's are titled, he has a bill of sale, and is willing to have a new bill of sale notarized. This seems suspect to me, I know I can get it titled with a bill of sale I just don't want to catch a RSP case when I go to do this. I guess I really don't need a title though, I can always get my Ohio stickers on my 98 and swap fenders when needed. Any Ideas on how to check on the #'s if its stolen? Time is a factor as I'm going to buy on thursday. Thanks
  16. I just got 2 pair of boysen reed cages, anyone have any feed back about them? There not the the carbon fiber Rad Valves, they are aluminum. I'm having trouble finding info on the older rad valves. What kinda perfomance can I expect from these? What reeds should I go with?
  17. I can't sticky it! A moderator has too. But I'll get on it this weekend, I have a banshee In one piece right now, the other one well, hmmm It has the sterring stem only on it, waiting for me to put her back together.
  18. If I make a step by step technical with picture instructions can we please sticky it for everyone to view? How many more times must users ask this ?. Just a thought?
  19. Sure can!!! The TORS stay on the carbs but are disabled. Copy and Pass the TORS removal instructions on.
  20. go here > TORS and make sure you disconnected the right things. Like suggested before make sure slides are moving correctly. Also are you getting gas? Check to see you are getting gas. Check your plugs with the new twist throttle did ya just flood it?
  21. Hunted down the thread, he is another thing you can do with out, TORS. Props to the guy who wrote this!!! step by step for ya here you go: 1. unplug the wires coming out of the TORS carb caps. 2. follow those wires back to the wiring harness and cut the plugs off as close as you can and put a piece of small heatshrink tubing over the end of each wire and shrink it. then tape them into the harness. 3. unplug the TORS brainbox. its a small black box on the left side of the frame under the gastank. tehn follow those wires back and cut htem off and heatshrink them. 4. take the throttle cover off and remove the small switch in there and then unplug it. follow wires back... (heatshrink and cut like previous steps.) 5. buy a new clutch perch and lever the stocker is junk. also remove the parking brake while your at it and get a blockoff plate. then unplug the wire coming out of the clutch perch and follow those wires back and heatshrink and cut like before. 6. buy a TORS removal kit from Vito's performance or Toomey or Alba. then remove your old crappy junk TORS caps on the carbs and install the kit! 7. most important step! step back admire your work and sip at a beer. pour something flamable on the pile of junk you just hauled off and watch it burn! but cut off all the plugs first. those could come in handy sometime...
  22. Check your electrical connections. Do you still have your TORS on?
  23. Ok your trail riding.... Have you done the obvious mods yet? Start from the beginning, improve your airflow! Your best bet for trail riding is to go with the pro flow system, or something similiar like K+N. Ok you have more air now you need more fuel and a more efficient way to get it there, so straight out the air box to the reeds. A pair of after market reeds and reed cages, will take care of that. Take a look at porting your stock cages if your low on dough. Once you've done either of these mods you will need to change your jetting, this is agreeably the most aggravating tuning part of the banshee. Follow the flow here from the reeds we go to the cylinder ports. You can modify these by changing the way your fuel flows into the cylinder, round any sharp edges, this will alow a smoother transition for the fuel to flow into the cylinder. Shaving the head is an option too but whatever, the point is make the power before you think about putting it to the ground. With the listed mods above and the mods you currently have, I see know reason you shouldn't be tearing these guys up thru the trails, unless your buddies have heavily modded 4-strokes. Good luck list your mods, I'm sure we can think of a couple more ways for you to spank those 4-strokes and empty your wallet!
  24. A decent lower end with out taking too much from your topend would be to jump about two teeth up front. Leave the back the way it is. See if this works for ya.
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