OneBADBanshee05

Do you have any pictures of what your talking about?

The only time that I used the Toomey perfect jet kit is when it came with a Toomey exhaust package. If you have a set of stock needles I’d put them in and start with the e clip in middle. What premix ratio are you using? I understand that this is a PITA. Being impatient is going to make the job go slower and cause other issues and If it starts to get you upset then just step back and take a break for a few minutes and regain your thoughts and try again. At one time everyone on this site went through what your doing now and it’s just a learning curve and once you get it down packed then it becomes easier down the road.

Sounds like you got a great deal on some new 28’s. If you don’t mind me asking. Where you get them at ? I’m putting a banshee engine back together for someone and I’m doing a carb upgrade on it. PM me the info. Thanks.

Your float height should be set at 20-22 mm and in inches 0.80-0.88

The needle has 5 grooves on it. Stock location is the e clip on the middle groove. When you move the e clip up towards the rounded end it will get leaner and down towards the tapered end it will get richer. Make sure you also recheck your float height after messing with the carbs that can also effect your jetting. It can cause it to either get to much fuel (Rich Condition)or cause it to starve for fuel (Lean Condition).

First off I would get rid of those pos Vito’s red needles and order the perfect jet kit straight from Toomey Racing. Toomey’s needles work a hell of a lot better then vito’s junk. Then I would start with the 27.5 pilot and either somewhere between a 290 thru 310 mains with air screw 2 turns out. Just remember to do either the pilot jet circuit or main jet circuit one at a time and have plenty of patients. Also make sure outside temps are stable because that plays a major role in getting it jetted properly.

If I was 20 years younger and still doing Atv Mx I’d stanch this up in a heart beat.

An old but, very interesting topic.

I would say go with a 28mm Keihin pwk carb setup. They have a excellent throttle response and would be better on fuel mileage over your larger carb setup. Unless your not worried about fuel mileage. Then you can speak to the company that you are buying the 410 kit from and see what they recommend for that setup.

Just checking to see if you made any progress? If you didn’t go with any builder yet. I might have something that you might be interested in to get you up and going again. Send me a pm for more information.

What type of riding are you doing?

Check out the BansheeHQ sponsors section. There is a couple of engine builders in there.

According to my boss he doesn’t even know. He said it’s what ever the company orders and I looked on the drums that it comes in and they are unmarked. All I know is that it’s a blueish green color.

What you need to do is sit down and figure out what your budget is. Then you can build your banshee how ever the way you want. What’s most importantly is reliability. Just try and stay away from buying the jap crap parts.

The cheapest oem crank that I found by just doing a quick search was $428 through RMATV. If you go that route then all you have to do is pay someone to true and weld it. I wasn’t going to buy a crank because the one that was in the bike was perfectly fine. So I decided to just rebuild it and have it trued and welded. What ever parts don’t get used during the rebuild I’ll just hold on to them for a future project. As for what it’s going to cost me for the labor. I bartered with the guy on the labor.

Depending on the previous post outcome I’ll probably be going the same route with my own 04 banshee either next fall or winter. I’m keeping my banshee as a stock stroke ported 350. I don’t need anything crazy either.

It all depends on the style of riding you are doing. In some cases going to a 4 mil build would be useless. I’m working on a 2001 banshee for someone right now and I am upgrading the top end. The owner didn’t want to balls to the wall power. So I sent HJR his OEM cylinders and I’m having HJR port the cylinders with a play/dune port job, I’m also having then bore and hone the cylinders and a piston kit. As for the crank I’m having a local guy rebuild the OEM crank. I bought new oem rods, oem bearings and seals and O-rings and he’s going to true and weld it for me so I know it’s done right. I’m also upgrading his water pump and head with Chariot performance products.

I know that this post seems senseless and all, but damn cut the guy some slack. It seems like he is trying to add some spark to the site here. SMH.

@the boris- I’ll have to ask my boss what the stuff is called. I’ll be doing another set of pipes in the next couple of days the same way. I might do some before and after pictures.

Sunoco 93 mixed with Motul 800 t2 off road @ 40:1. Then sometimes Sunoco Supreme 112 mixed with Motul 800 t2 off road @ 40:1 I can buy it cheap from a friend in the 5 gal pail.

I forgot to mention that you could also contact Duncan Racing and talk with them because they are known for building race winning banshee’s that have raced TT/ Flat Track, Pikes Peak and Both Baja Race’s.

There’s a whole lot of stuff that comes into play when trying to achieve this ideal and some is good and some is not so good. Yes, the psi is very important roll. You would also have to install some kind of fuel pressure regulator because If there’s to much psi then your taking a chance of either blowing up your carbs and turning your banshee into a rolling fireball or the pump would dump unused fuel into the engine at lower rpm’s which would cause the unused fuel to either hydro lock the engine or it would wash the crankshaft bearings out. You would have to almost design something like a EFI system which would have to work off of an ECM which would have to control the timing of spark and fuel pulse. If I was trying to achieve something like this I would experiment with a windshield washer fluid pump at first to see if the pump would work with gasoline and how long it would continue to work. You would have to design or hook up a secondary fuel on /off switch. If the windshield washer fluid pump would work I would see if it would work off of the lighting system on the banshee where if you are just riding around you don’t used it and while under on the track using high rpm’s you could just flip the headlight switch on and it would pump extra fuel to the carbs. It’s just a real touchy situation trying to achieve this goal. It’s a trial and error type of thing. Just my $0.02

*Update* I put the pipes and silencers back on and she runs really smooth now and has a very snappy throttle response as well. Just buy cleaning out the carbon build up in the pipes it’s like I woke up a sleeping giant. I took it for a rip on Sunday to do a plug chop by my house and the plugs have a lite coco colored center. So, I’m happy with the outcome and I hope that my neighbor is just as happy. I also changed the pre mix from Castor 927 @ 32:1 to Klotz R-50 @ 32:1 with 93 octane.

A couple of things could be the cause of your problem. You have to check the squish between the tops of your pistons and the coolhead domes. Your pistons could be slapping the domes. You might have to get a different set of domes or have to get a set of custom cut domes to make up the difference of your milled cylinders. You also my have to get a thicker cylinder base gasket. You timing could be advanced to much if it has a adjustable timing plate.

Item that is listed FOR SALE is no longer available. Thanks.