Fr33zypop

I didn’t install the case saver on my banshee and have found it’s leaking quite a bit. It’s plastic but not sure if this is normal or if the messed it up somehow. Not sure if it needs a gasket or some rtv to help seal it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t install the case saver on my banshee and have found it’s leaking quite a bit. It’s plastic but not sure if this is normal or if the messed it up somehow. Not sure if it needs a gasket or some rtv to help seal it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I must of misinterpreted the needles to be why the carbs continued to allow fuel to flow, thanks for clearing that up. I guess I going backwards with the tune if I need to drop in the oem needles. I’m not a expert by any means to this stuff but with the clip in the leanest position and bogs at 1/4 throttle I probably need to drop my pilot jet. Since the needles have been the only change I’ll put it back to before. Other than a few extra kicks I never had issues. I’m pinning the throttle at times so that’s a thing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got this off Dennis Kirk Moose Carb Repair Kit - 1003-0660. The seat this kit had a little thicker o ring that could of been why it was leaking but that one I had in there was only in 12 months and little use. I'm going to put the old ones back in later this week and see how it goes. The new needles have 5mm stamped in them if that helps.

I was able to get some warm weather to work on the banshee. After getting parts for a carb rebuild I went with a full kit for the rebuild mainly I was concerned about the needles. These were the only thing since I’ve owned the banshee I haven’t replaced. When I got the rebuild kit and the old needles out I realized what were installed were not oem and much longer. I put the needles from the kit in and the clip in the middle. It fired right up but I saw it was very rich. I popped them out again and put them to the last notch to lean it out. It ran better but still very rich. I’m wondering if I should put the old needles in but I’m worried they are the reason my carbs dump fuel out from allowing gas to continue to flow. The carbs themselves show zero leaks from what I was originally chasing. Is there a max length for needles on the stock carbs? I had the clip on the top 2 of 6 notch from before and ran strong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the other day I opened the petcock and I could see gas fill the carbs and I've let it sit a few days and I haven't seen a drop. I haven't ran it in a while and its pretty cold up here so not sure.

I will try to loosen the caps tonight and try it out. I never thought about that. No heated garage and its in the 30s already here.

Replacing with OEM was the next thing I could think of. I think mine are plastic bowls but I will try that floating test.

So like take the bowls off and hold the floats up? Just want to be sure I understand.

Forgive me it my terms don't line up. I have put in a new brass part that is held down with a bracket and screw with a new one that has the o-ring, seat float. These were both new last year from FAST. My right carb was really bad last year until I replaced it but then this year I replace the left one. They both have a new needle as well. I checked that the one I had from the rebuild I saw a line around the tip of the needle and the new ones were smooth.

I'm just throwing this out there cause I don't know what else to do. My carbs will not stop fuel from flowing out the tubes. I have replaced everything in both carbs with new float needles and I have verified the correct height of the floats. The last owner sucked and ran a lot of sand through it. Last year I had the engine rebuilt about found many problems but it runs great now. After riding I see fuel in the fuel filter but it will all slowly leak out after a day or so. I have a feeling enough sand wore down enough the float isn't seating right. Other than a small bore and other minor mods like pipes, reeds, and a modified air box its pretty stock.

Happy to report with the upgraded pilot jet to 27.5 and the main down to 300 it’s running a lot better. I still have some tweaking on the aircrews. I have them at 1.5 turns out but the power at 1/4 throttle is weak. My sync tool comes Tuesday so I’ll dial it in then. Other that some thumb cramping and needed adjustments to the brake and thumb throttle to the left I’ve got this banshee dialed in. It’s a freak how fast thing goes. The area I ride has tight turning with a lot of body shifting to stay on and the throttle has been awkward to control. This billet ones super long but I’ve remounted it to help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet, thanks for the tip.I'll size it up once it get it apart haha. I think i've got access to a press if needed too.

As I was buttoning up the banshee after a hot weekend putting it back together I noticed the right wheel has a very small amount of play at the hub. I found some bearing kits and I'm not worried about getting them pressed but wanted a general opinion on upgrading hubs. I see I could get some RPM and lonestar hubs for a few hundo that would probably happen over winter but am I really going to notice a difference with just some the standard hub and bearing replacements?

The plot thickens!!! I took the needle jets out to check where they were and they were set all the way to the top. Ugh I can't wait for the new jets and other parts to get this back up and running again. I have the clip set on the third from the bottom now.

Omg after watching some YouTube’s about my choke plunger not staying open I realized my bowls are on the wrong carbs!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The floats are empty. Is the needle seat o ring under the brass that’s held down by the screw and bracket? I have new jets coming so after it’s back together I’ll see where I’m at. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*fine little line Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The tip look fine. I see a very fine little me but no indent. This is the leaky right carb. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this what your talking about? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I checked the floats and are right 21 mm. I noticed in my right carb doesn’t have a metal tube my left one does that goes around the gasket. Sorry for the newb questions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also noticed I don’t have splash guards on my main jet. Is that a big deal it’s missing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s some better pictures Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the best I have right now. Let me know if you need a better picture of the pipes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had some time to pull the carbs to 1 see why they leaked excess gas from the over flow and 2 to see what jets I have. The bowl was fairly clean other than the main jets had some sand build up. The main jets are 310 and pilot jets 25. I think I’m going to up the pilots to 30 and see how it goes from there. I still don’t know why the gas overflows but with the cleaning it may if helped. Im waiting on other parts to arrive with a sync tool before booting it all back together. I can’t find any information about my pipes to know what jetting they recommend so is there a ball park I should us to gauge my required jetting? I’ve got a open 2 to 1 aluminum air box with a knn and v4 reeds. It seems my 310 mine be under sized from the examples on the jetting faq page. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk