Rawnold

The rim on the bottom of the dome, I got domes from driveline performance they were cut to 66.50 but the fella that did my cylinders said they need to be bigger than your bore so he drilled out the rim slightly bigger 67.5 if I recall. pilot jet is 25, just checked it.. too low? e- also took out my idle screws. my left side carb threading seems okay as the bottom of the screws look good and it goes in smoothly by hand (5+ turns). but my right side carb threading seems to be going bad as I can only get about 1 turn in with the screw before I feel too much resistance to screw by hand. Can I tap my carb threading to make it better or if I tap will I have to make the threading larger therefore screwing it up? seems the nut was stripping the top of the screw that's where those shavings were coming from

ALSO the quad idles in N but dies as I drop first with no gas

Haven't looked at my piston tops as I haven been removed my head but I had the same guy who bored my cylinders open up my domes as well. So those domes should be good also. But how would I know if it's turning off because it's seizing? i will take off carbs again today and remove those idle screws to see what's going on. As for pilots like it said I forgot to check what it was before I put it back together. I'll let you know what they are today Just so you guys know my quad was idling just fine before I took off the carbs to adjust the jet e- no signs of deto on the plugs and compression is still 150 on both sides

Also noticed quad blowing out a lot of white smoke as I was pulling out of my yard in the low gears 1st and 2nd

What's the solution here? I definitely understand how a locknut works but it won't lock down, just keeps spinning. anyways got the bike to turn on and idle pretty decent, as soon as I dropped to first gear quad shut off. Had to throttle to keep it alive. So I took it out down the street to warm it up and revved it hard through all gears wot at 6th, then as I'm coming to a stop the quad shuts off on me.. gives me a very hard time to get back on, I kicked the hell out of it nothing choked it got it to crank but shut right off soon as I took off the choke. Turned off gas kicked bout 10x wot got it to crank on turned on fuel it shut off once again and then bam it's cranking on again. i rode back home pretty hard, almost wot and the quad felt boggy.. got home doesn't look like I over heated in any way cylinders weren't extremely hot. Spark plugs looked dry and dark brown on the electrode. Not wet and foulish like before. thoughts?

My idle screw threads seem to be stripped. Looks like the person who put them in inserted them wrong. As I screw out it's so stiff it begins to turn the nut behind it as well. And as I turn in I can see some metal shavings come out (pieces of threading) Am I going to have to replace this whole idle screw? If so could the threading on the carb also be damaged?

So I'm having a bit of an issue with my idle screw, got my air screw one turn from closed. but when I turn my idle screw the nut behind the screw turns too, I tried to tighten it all the way down but it doesn't seem to fasten down and I'm stripping the nut in the process.. what's going on here?? also left slide in the carb seems to be higher than the right slide. As I open the throttle wide open both dots line up fine. But as I open it and look through the intake holes I can see the left slide dissapear completely while the right slide is still slightly visible. pls halp e- I've watched videos on how to tune the carbs and it says that for the idle screw two and a half turns in from the moment you feel your slide start to raise. Thing is on my right slide I don't feel any slide movement as I adjust the screw and it's very stiff. As for the left side I start to feel the slide move as the screw it almost all the way in, only allows for about turn and a half from that point. So something seems to be wrong

Completely forgot to check what pilots I could open it up again real quick if need be

Just got the jets 300s and 290s. I put in the 290s to see if those are better, if they're lean I'll drop the 300s which should be dead smack middle. Needle clip is in the middle groove, should I leave it in that position or raise the clip one? Or drop one?

Last I checked I was at 1 turn out from closed. Not sure on the pilot jet I have to check that

Lmao I got u fam. I'll try cleaning up my windows as much as possible. When I'm in the higher gears quad seems to run good, it's the lower gears that bog especially 1st before I hit powerband. I can take the quad out for another ride and test it out at wot if necessary because I don't rly know how it operates at wot. I usually avoid hitting wot since I just rebuilt. plugs are black and oily not white at all that's why I assume I'm rich correct me if I'm wrong

Yeah I'm familiar with the carbs I know how to check needle adjustment, soon as I get my hands on the new jets I will also check needle position, let u guys know the current position & retune my carbs once everything is back together.. dropping down to 290 from 310 main jet thoughts? as as far as carb synching my windows are foggy and I don't have the tool would you fellas have another method?

I actually was thinking this too. But I always shake my tank before turning the quad on but it's done it twice after warmed up and everything actually runs fine when cold so I feel like my issue might be the jetting. I heard needle and pilot affects first three quarters of throttle main jet is wot so if that's the case my issue here is either pilot or needle?? Any other ideas

I'll let you guess guys know what position my needle clip is on when I take the carbs off the quad

What else would you like to know? My quad right after rebuild was 150 psi, CPI pipes pods on stock carbs 26mm stock crank 66.50 pistons, slight port work Just recieved the jets, should I try the 290 or the 300 first?

Sup fellas recently did a top end rebuild on my quad dropped from 180 comp to 150 got the bike running broke it in, changed oil and put in some fresh gas 32:1 ratio yamalube type r. Quad ran great last weekend no complaints only some low end sputtering on 1st and 2nd a bit slow on top end I felt but my buddy said that might be jetting. So I ordered 290 and 300s to try them out see if it helps he thought my current 310s were too high. now issue is this weekend I go out to ride it (still haven't swapped jets) and I go out warm it up and punch it down my road and feels about the same now when I get to the end of the road and start shifting down it feels like my quad is starting to shut off I would hit the throttle but the revving would sound strange.. the lower I shifted the worse it got until I hit 2nd or 1st where my bike would completely shut off. I put it in neutral gives me a lil trouble to start but once it kicks on it rides funky on first and second until the powerband hits then I can ride normal until I have to stop again. Should I check my needle clip position too ad adjust that? gas tank is full fuel seems to be flowing fine through the lines. Just swapped spark plugs cause they were starting to look a little foul, haven't got on the quad yet

Those were fresh plugs, but yeah I'm thinking it's rich too, my buddy thinks so also. He tells me I should drop down to a 290 main. I'm at 310 rn. As for the strange sound I googled it and I ran into needle clip position, should I mess with that before rejetting?

first two pics were as soon as i took it off and the third was after I wiped it

Took the quad out for a quick ride, rode 1-5 gears pretty hard. top gears ran great, noticed the sound the bike was making when accelerating was a bit strange (before powerband). Especially in the low gears, throttle response in those low gears isn't too great either, its hard to get the quad to move like I want it to in 1st, kinda like it has no power until the powerband kicks in. Got back home shut it off and plug electrode is black and the rim & threading were wet with black oil. Wiped it off and put it back in. Does this mean I am running rich? E- Will post pics of plug once I can get it to my email

swapped the tranny oil today, drained the rest of the tank, swapped plugs and warmed her up real quick. noticed a leak, I think its my right side carb, it looked wet around the bowl, so I'm gonna open it up check the gasket tomorrow hopefully fix that and take her our for a spin. I'll post the results & some pics of the plugs. Did 32:1 Yamalube R... Currently 2 gallons in my tank

probably what I'll run after a few more rides

Just took her out for another ride, let her warm up shut her off didn't see any leaks cooled up for about 5 mins turned her back on and went out. rode it a bit harder than I did yesterday, did runs from first all the way up to 5th but for some reason fifth gear kept bogging out on me, maybe i just wasn't in the right rpms to hit 5th... I am a rookie on these banshees but I am trying to shift it as good as possible without over revving the engine. Came back home shut her off after she bogged on fifth the second time. It was a total of like 10 minutes riding. Left the fuel ON to see if carbs would leak, and the right side carb when sitting on the quad is leaking out of the bowl drainer hose. so I'm hoping it's my float. I'm going to buy a caliper and adjust it before I go out again. Could this be why it bogged? Also, kind of looked like one side exhaust was smoking up a bit more than the other side (right side blew more smoke) Could it be my carbs aren't synced properly? The little windows are foggy and I can't really see the marking too well but it seems to me when I take off the pods and look at the slides that they're going up evenly

What's premix? If you mean the oil I'm using yamalube type R

Always was run with a lot of marine oil as per the guy I got it from "it's the best oil" lol.. even the 20:1 ratio is less but then what it was running before I got it ran 16:1.. but then again it was blown when I checked the comp. I just took it out for a quick ride today that was all. Wanted to get opinions and plus was limited by the weather.. I think I'm gonna finish the break in with this tank run it again tomorrow twice more a lil harder than before each time, then drain out the remaining gas and put a fresh tank with a 24-30:1 ratio still undecided. Sound like a plan?

Alright cool, good to know. As for the coolhead part I was foolin around I just figured the point of a "cool"head would be to reduce heat. As I'm sure it does but I can't tell by touch. As for coolant boiling I can just check this by opening up the radiator am I right? If it's boiling it will overflow if it's good it will be settled?