Mxjd619

So I took the stator apart to look for physical damage and try to find a cause for failure, also just gain more knowledge on this topic while I'm at it. Everthing looks pretty good. I tested continuity from the ends of the red and green wire to were they actually connect to the stator and it both showed good. Does this mean there is some sort of break or more realistically a short in the actual wrapping ?

Hey guys throwing it out there. Who has an OEM stator that they wanna part with? I know someone out there has one laying around.

is there a way i can test continuity for the stator ignition side then ? the lighting side which i believe are the white wires with traces show good, but i am told these are completely separate from each other correct?

Hey guys, just finished my complete rebuild but i have no spark. My question is should i have continuity when i test the stator red and green wires on the plug end? Even if it shows incorrect ohms should i have continuity or will both ohms and continuity show bad? id rather fix a bad connection to the stator then replace it. Thanks for the help

This is the strangest conversation about radiators Ive ever read.

^^ well said

Thats a nice mx build man, very well done.

There at the shop now. This guy does alot of the bikes at the track. Hes an older dude, has built some fast engines. I will def be looking them over for my own piece of mind though. Ill keep ya posted

looks like FMF with diff tips like zilla said

banghead150:1

Im a satin fan myself but either will probably look good. I had a swing arm painted black (gloss) with purple and it looked sick.

If you can get another picture of these i might be interested in taking them off youre hands

those look nice man

I have that same set. I bought industry truck paint from the tacker store, mixed with hardener, and a gloss agent ans sprayed 2 coats from my gun. they came out really good. My frame is powder coated candy green and i think what i sprayed is pretty close to the hardness. But you can prob get those powdered for like 60 bucks.

Thanks for the advice guy, I'll just drop them off at the shop Monday and that will be that.

so the real question is are there any companies that sell OEM quality cylinder sets out there for my budget or at more reasonable prices besides ordering directly from Yamaha themselves for 500+ a jug?

Bp has a set i think thats like 300ish. I figured if the new ones are "As Good " as OEM then ill by them as a kit and just get the stock ones bored and sell them, ill make my money back probably.

I crashed it and long story short, lost radiator fluid and broke both pistons on the exhaust side.Finished putting the case back together cause there was crap everywhere in the case. Ready for top end now, My budget is like 500, if i cant get away with buying new for that then ill take it to the shop.

Its standard 64.00 stock.

Hey guys, deciding weather or not to bore out current cylinders as they are scored up from an accident, or just by new. My question is are all the cylinder kits available on amazon, Ebay, etc.. They all seem to just be the Niche Cylinders with various piston kits and gasket kits that determine how much they sell for. I can find what looks to be the same (niche) cylinder +piston kits from 200-500 depending on if it comes with weisco products or some cheap crap. So i saw a couple older threads on this but nothing that really helped. Anyone have experience with any kit sold by ebay, amazon, 50 cal racing, etc. Its 120 for me to bore to next size prob, 64.5 or 65. Are these cylinders worth they 200 bucks regardless if the pistons are crap? Doesn't seem to be to many people that have messed around with them but any help is appreciated guys. To bore or not to bore.