machinegunbanshee

Ohm. That is the setting. It measures resistance of what electricity passes through. Learn how to use your new tool. Im not going to explain it to you on my holiday. Check with your new manual that every thing is within specification

Lol cool man! You got a multimeter?

I cant understand what the fuck your saying when you type. Do it when your sober.

Had a similar problem a few months back. Turned out I had a bad connection to the coil. Only reason I say that is I had the same symptoms as you described. I pinched the connector a little bit and cleaned up the contacts, problem solved. Worth a look.

As far as cdi's go, stick with stock factory. Ive read a lot about junk aftermarket cdi's doing some weird things. No spark, engines running backwards, ect...

Looks to me like your missing a roundhouse style swinger and a bearing carrier?

Mostly meant the notorious 1 but thanks. He todded. I got some questions for the majority of the brotherhood later, but I the meantime I'm trying to figure out who knows WTF up.

I have noticed the faggottry runs deep here.

And I would be looking for a deal for a new frame while my engine was out. Why have a sound motor and a fucked off frame?

I would definitely do a leak down on this motor to verify seals or other leaks. Keeps things simple when you know what is broken and why.

"Expensive" is relative. I would guess if I was rebuilding around 1500 to 2000. And for me a rebuild on a motor in yours condition, all the upgrades the basic upgrades that make it better than stock. Including a mild trail port and stock crank being welded, clutch, billet pump n stuff. But you could do it for less just dont be a cheap ass about it and cut corners. You dont want to have to do it again in 2 hours after start up.

Dealing with minkia right now... everything was as described, but missing a ctiticallittle spacer. No mention of it in the add and the fucking tie rod ends were held in with jb weld. Cheap and shipped fast though. Learned my lesson. Left negative feedback and communicated with him and he still wonders why.

What kind of shape are your reeds in? If you remove the fuel linesfrom the carbs, do they flow freely when you turn the gas on? Are the vent lines on the carbs plugged. Are they able to vent?

Get a leakdown test done yet?

Another thing... check the reeds make sure they lay flat on the cage. Also chech there is no spare parts holding them open. But lets finish the basics first.

What blows cold air? The exhaust?

Your welcome. Just trying to rule everything out that makes any engine run. If every thing is in spec this thing has no choice but to run. And no offence but I dont know you so dont take offence to stupid questions I ask. Just want to make sure on shit... I dont know everything and never claim to, but I have to assume your ignant. Lol

Check compression on both cylinders. Should be around 125 to 130 I believe. Does the right cylinder fire if you rev it up? I know you said carbs are as clean as can be, but you might have a plugged pilot or missed something. I would check compression first though. Also wouldnt hurt to take the plug out and shine a light in the cylinder to see what direction the arrowin top of the piston is pointed. And as long as you have the plug out check the gap. .18~.20 I believe?

Have you verified spark on both cylinders yet?

Check all your fuel vent lines coming off the carbs and off the tank. Ill bet that it does the same thing if you let it sit and idle for a bit in nuetral. How long does it take you to get to 6th gear when this happens. Sounds like vapor lock and the bowls are being emptied.

Yup^ and choke tube. He wanted to swap carbs to see if the problem followed them. Hence the longer choke tube, I assume.

Did you JUST rebuild it? Have you actually verified that your getting spark at both plugs? Has it been verified that both carbs are getting fuel? Did you use both sets of rings when you put it together? Spark. Fuel. Compression.