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Posts posted by Keno
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Get a head with orings.
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Gonna need a picture of what you are talking about.
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Anywhere that sells Yamaha OEM parts. RMATV, Partzilla, ect
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2004/banshee-yfz350s/cylinder
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/
You'll be better off buying a used set and having them bored and ported or just buying a setup from Driveline. -
Where are you getting the pwk 42?
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I would smash you and Tyler one after the other in less than 2 min and im completly out of shape.
Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk
Interesting choice of words.
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=smash
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I honestly don't know. Try it and adjust as needed. That was just a general range, not a rule. Starting high is usually easier to tune. If it is 4 stroking at the top and midrange go down and repeat until cleared up. If it sounds tinny and down on power, jet up immediately. Ect. Every combination Jets a little differently and differently depending on elevation and temperature.
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Verify that the carb slides are opening the same. Adjust with the adjusters on top of the caps.
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You can cut a little off the springs to lighten them, dont cut too much or else you'll have a run away. Or buy softer ones from FAST. You'll need to adjust the jetting. Most run jjh or n68a needles. And like a 45 to 52 pilot and 150 to 165 main. Read the jetting guide from Duncan racing for pwk carbs.
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Yep it defaults to curve 4 or "stock" if the selector switch is removed.
Curve 3 +5* means curve 3 selected and 5* of static timing. This is the reason the OPs motor detonated and broke.
Without the selector, you just flash whatever curve you want to curve 4 and it will be the one running.
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Well considering Keihin doesn't make 30mm carbs. Stick with the 28s.
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If you want you can clean them. But and 1/8 of an inch difference is the problem.
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Yes, the nut goes on the other side per the instructions.
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You may just need to sync your carbs. Do you still have tors or do you have a tors delete?
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Edit: New chart since it sounds like you are running curve 3. I guess my point is to get the programming cable so you can keep timing down low and pull back up top.
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Is there bottom ball joint screwed in? Are the arms installed with the correct sides facing forward? https://teamalbaracing.com/files/recreational-a-arm-standard-travel.pdf
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Sound does not equal power. Look at dyno room PC>T5 typically
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Honestly, I wouldn't bother replacing the head shell. Just get new domes from your builder as that head shell accepts normal domes.
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That's a projected tip spark plug. The electrode hangs an extra couple milimeter into the combustion chamber. Don't know if it's benefits anything.
I'm with Sully though, a 6 heat range is probably too hot. Go with an br8es.
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Also curious what +5 with a dynatek is? As it is a programmable that could be anything. Also +5 on a dynatek's "stock" curve is actually more than a stock cdi's +5.
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Plugs backing out is detonation. You are having it at sea level as your jetting is probably just lean enough (at sea level) to allow for detonation. You can either Jet up, pull back timing, or decrease compression.
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Correct, No reason to rejet.
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Head gasket went out..can I use old one with thin layer of gasket maker
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
Time sert m8 x 1.25
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