[New to me, Banshee Build/opinions thread]

 

Talk to Redline about your goals and motor questions since they are going to be building your motor.

 

Keep the stock main gearing ratio. 2.68 is for asphalt mainly.

 

Congrats on the purchase. You sound excited.

 

 

 

 

[Not liking these Lectrons right now!]

Wtf happened to Whitebread. He was going to start selling EFI kits but dissapeared.

[Jetting concern w T5’s]

Download Tapatalk on your phone to post pictures. Your pictures suck.

 

Stock cylinders are not nikasil coated.

 

WSM are not Wiseco. WSM started as a jetski aftermarket parts company. IDK about their banshee pistons, but their PWC pictons are pretty okay.

 

Does the bore look good? 120psi is fine for a stock banshee. It could be that the head damage is from before the topend was repaired. Buy an aftermarket head with 22cc small bore domes and run premium gasoline.

 

 

[Boyesen Rad VS. Vforce 4]

Basically, Vforce wins due to increased petal tip area.

Old chart from Planet Sand.

 

 

 

 

[Oxygenated fuel]

Depends.  Pick a fuel and jet for it.  E85 takes bigger jets than E10.  Methanol takes bigger jets than those.  The more alcohol or other oxygen containing molecules in the fuel, the richer the jetting. 

[Can a hone be the cause of lower compression after top end rebuild?]

No one on the sponsor list would have given a motor back to the customer with the pistons 5mm below the deck height.

[Can a hone be the cause of lower compression after top end rebuild?]

Have them order the correct pistons and replace the head.

[Can a hone be the cause of lower compression after top end rebuild?]

So they put long rod Pistons in a regular rod motor? There's 5mm difference in pin to piston crown... That's a lot of port timing change.

[Chariot Clutch Basket]

Shoot me an offer.

 

[Adaptive timing advance.]

Yeah, on my setup and I think a lot of Banshees there is a dip in the power output around 5000 RPM right before the motor comes on pipe.  I found that the dip doesn't seem as bad if I keep the timing high through the dip. 

[Adaptive timing advance.]

Midrange detonation is a thing, but is harder to notice and I don't think causes much damage. If the midrange gets worse , gets hot, or feels like it is fighting itself drop the timing in that range and see if it improves But is a little more forgiving than at WOT.

You'll need to test your curve while riding. I adjust a degree or two at a time and switch between curves and decide if I can tell a difference.

Just don't get greedy with the timing unless you are prepared to rebuild the motor.

[Adaptive timing advance.]

So, I'm not an expert, but basically I run flat timing from just above idle to through the dead spot in the power band. You can extend the off idle ramp up a little to smooth the throttle off idle.   I keep raising the timing here until I can't tell a difference.  In my case I hit the limits of the Dynatek Ignition at 27*.  Just as the pipe comes on I drop the timing to stock and add back until I can't tell a difference again.  Then at peak power I add until I have signs of light deto then back the timing back down a degree or two.  After peak power I drop the timing to about 5 degrees to allow for increased overrev.  The dropping of the timing after peak power transfers heat from the cylinder to the pipe allowing for a broader powerband.

I mainly run curve 3, but will run 2 sometimes if its super hot out or bad fuel.  My setup is a Pump Gas Ported 421 Serval with 24cc domes, PWK 33s, and SBIF Shearers.  Throttle response is pretty good and I can overrev to about 11.3K to 11.5K rpm in 6th.  This curve hasn't been dyno'd but I've been happy with it for the last 2 years or so. I could probably hold a little more timing between 10-11K but this has been a safe setup and I like it better than the stock curve or a +4.

[Adaptive timing advance.]

Those look nice. I kinda wish you could program your own curve though. Claude, you'll have to design a battery tray though.

[26 Mikuni VS 28 Mikuni flats]

They are flat slides. I don't have experience with TMs but they are a similar carb.

 

[26 Mikuni VS 28 Mikuni flats]

Keihin pwk is considered the best.

[Adaptive timing advance.]

So like a programmable ignition? Dynatek, Zeel, and maybe some others make or made Ignitions.

[Chariot Clutch Basket]

 

Used Chariot basket with Used cushions. Cushions look to be in good condition. The basket had a clutch pack shatter in it causing some scrapes through the anodizing. I tried taking pictures of the worst of it. Basket is very usable and scrapes are mostly cosmetic.

 

$125 shipped with tracking. Paypal only.

 

 

[rpm of a banshee]

Probably has a tach in 1 pulse per cycle mode lol.

[VForce 4 Reeds]

PM sent.

[VForce 4 Reeds]

Set of used Moto Tassinari VForce 4 Reed cages and reeds. These have about 25 hours on them. These have never seen methanol and are in excellent condition for being used. I cannot see any gaps at the reed tips.

 

Price is $155 shipped with tracking. Paypal only.

[Reed spacers on stock carbs ?]

They are only beneficial on some case induction motors (not Banshees) to space the reed tips away from the turbulence of the crankshaft to increase reed life.

Or where the reed cages occlude a transfer port.

Seadoo 951 motors need reed spacers, so chances are your Skidoo had a similar motor.

 

 

 

[Dyna Programming Cables]

Been a few years since a made a batch of programming cables.  Made some new, better than Dyna cables.  These do not require a separate serial converter or a 9v battery like the ones from Dynatek.

These are hand made by me using 5FT of Canare Cable and Genuine Prolific USB adapters.  Works for the Banshee Dynatek ignition and any other that uses the Dyna dfspk-1 cable.  NO 9V battery required.  Literally plug into your computer plug into the ignition and flash with the Dynatek software.

 

Cheaper and better than the one from Dynatek.  I have 3 available.

 

PRICE: $49 shipped each Via Paypal.

 

 

 

Download and install these:

Programmer Driver: http://www.prolific.com.tw/UserFiles/files/PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1_12_0.zip

Dynatek Curvemaker for ATV: http://docs.dynaonline.com/Document/18801

 

Download and Read these:

Dynatek Curvemaker Instructions: http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/Curvemakerv21.pdf

Dyna FS for Banshee install instructions: http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/DFS7-1.pdf

 

 

 

 

[T. Fluid]

What gender neutral shifting juice does ary body recommend?

The gender fluid fluid of choice is tranny oil.

I use Rotella T6 5w-40. Cheap enough and works well for a play bike.

[Hotrod crank tight after installing new seals]

Yes, perfectly normal for the oil seals to make it a little harder to rotate.

[Hotrod crank tight after installing new seals]

The pink thing is a labyrinth seal. The orings keep it and the bearings from moving and chattering.
You can just CA glue the oring back together, or buy a new one. You can also just smear motoseal around it.