Keno

Probably a lot of labor included in the price. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

They don't need to be formed lines. Any 1/4" or 5/16" fuel line will work.

You might try bending the mount tab on the pipe a little. See if it helps any. It may wrinkle/crack the chrome on the tab though... edit: Space the silencer away from the frame and use hose clamps to pull the tubing closer to the frame near the carbs. Might help.

Can a mod move this to the "wanted" section?

PJ 34 intake flange in 41mm and filter flange is 59mm PJ 36 intake flange is 43mm and filter flange is 61mm PJ 38 intake flange is 45mm and filter flange is 63mm

Electric?

Silly question, but are the athena cylinders in good condition? If so, you might just run them if you are only going to right a few times a year. Otherwise, buy the used stock cylinders and have them ported. Dumping $200 into the athenas for sleeves or $300 for plating and another $300 for porting is a waste. The Driveline cylinders become a real option if you are wanting to buy a 4mil crank. BUT you can still get the stock cylinders ported for 4mil also.

Regular pwks or air strikers? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

F1 cars run very hot. like 257*F hot coolant temps. But, there is probably a trade off there between power and aerodynamics. What temp do people run at on the dyno?

1.Stock stator is good to about 75W, so you're fine. 2. Yes, but ideally no. At the very least a small bridge rectifier will keep the leds from burning out (bike leads to AC, +- to leds) . Or get a DC conversion from JD http://www.jdscustoms.com/product/jl-engineering-complete-dc-conversion-kit/ But everything has been discussed recently so search around.

Geez, Thack just needs to make the pipes himself. Here in a few years the FB group will be wanting Thackers instead of Toomeys

Good to know! Thanks for giving me the history of this. Makes me feel even better about having bought it.

Monies sent. Consider this SOLD!

I'll buy it. PM incoming.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/152472-info-on-tdr-cranks Sprinkler is gone, but maybe Cam will chime in. Someone could call Tony though. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

http://www.ebay.com/itm/yamaha-banshee-full-graphics-kit-/141973239374?hash=item210e43b64e:g:mQMAAOSw4hdXICtM&vxp=mtr Took all of 30 seconds to find

Yeah, I've actually never seen a 120 volt one. I stand corrected. But to be fair, that is the wrong base size and wont plug in So look for a 12V MR16 Gx5.3 base halogen bulb. Also, damn, you quoted me before I edited my previous post. lol

Most bi-pin MR16 bulbs are 6, 12, or 24 volts. They are almost always 12v though

There is a socket in the housing that the pins on the bulb plug into. The bulbs are common in house lighting, you can buy them at Lowes, Homedepot, or Walmart usually.

As far as I know, they've never changed since they came out. They may load the boost ports more, but probably not enough to offset the lost reed surface area caused by the tapering of the reed cage to add clearance for the side reeds. Add in the fact that the reeds wear out quickly makes them especially unattractive.

No. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55459 Anything V-force is better. Stock cages with carbontech reeds would probably be better.

If it ends up being the wrong one, just have Kompulsive Concepts build you an adapter.

Yikes! I meant to say the cut part away from the piston. Yes the slots should go down. As far as cleaning, I'm not familiar with the Trinity Power valves. I assume there is a bellow under that plate, or an oring on the sides that should be inspected. Definetely try asking @camatv

Cut away part of valve toward the piston. That screw is probably secured with high temp red loctite. Edit: Cut away should be Away from piston and towards exhaust.

I believe Cameron Potucek (CamATV on here) does pro mods also.