91coupemike

I got this banshee on a good deal. Not really a lot of trails around here. I mainly just ride it around town over to my friends house, I've taken it to the drag strip once. Any time I ride it, it's wot and I guess you can say I "drag race" it.

Engine died. Haven't taken it apart yet but I think it are a piston/rod. No holes in the case though. I was thinking ported serval or ported stock cylinders by fast. Here's my other parts, worth re using? T5s and pwk 28s and pd cool head. 4mm worth it over stock stroke? I just want something considerably faster then before.

Yeah, it's the gmc version of the SS. They came with 20s! It doesn't run bad for a truck. I feel like if I didn't derp the launch it should be in the 8s easily A low 9 is average for your typical pony car in factory trim

My 04 gmc vho with the 6.0 ran a 9.4 at 77 on 20"s lol!

Busy night, pushing it through the staging lanes for 45 minutes wasnt my idea of good time. Cost me $15. Easy launch in 2nd gear :/

Stock cyl non ported cyls, stock reeds, pwk 28 with pods, +4 timing with 19cc cool head. 104 octane , t5s. Stock sprockets with 18in tires on itp ss. Stock suspension and swing arm. 9.3 at 75 with a 2.5 60ft lol only got to make one pass.

Finally got it all buttoned up and she rips again. Never found anything wrong with it besides draining a bit of gas out and resetting my floats. Carbs are slightly out of sync but I went for a test drive and its running good.

ive fou nd vf4s on ebay for $180 and the chariots were $130 or so, so its not a big price differance.

my current set up is: stock jugs, no porting .020 over. toomey t5 +4 timing plate cool head 19cc domes 28mm pwk carbs pod filters I have stock reed valves now, and was wondering which would be best for my set up, ive heard the VF4 would be good, but i was wondering if my small motor would benifit from them as much as much as RAD valves or maybe even chariot or modded stock cages. I dont plan on changing the set up anytime soon, just looking to upgrade while its apart.

Yeah I'm using stock intakes, I figured the rubber would seal but f it I'll go back with 4.

When I took my engine apart from the previous owner there was only a gasket on the reed to cylinder side, the vitos gasket kit I got came with only 2 gaskets, but upon further research Ive seen some people say they use 4 total, adding some to the intake to reed side. It passed a leak down test with only 2, but I wanted to know what the common practice was, I'll be making my own gasket from felpro 3157, oil/gas resistant material, the grey stuff, going to spray copper gasket on them too.

I would think you would be on the edge with that much timing. But I don't know squat!

Correct plugs? I went out and ran it and pulled the plugs, they looked decent but I didn't have a way to cut the threads off so not a "chop"

I'm kind of stuck on the fuel tank being over filled, does that happen? Waiting on new reed gaskets to get it back together and do a leak down test although my thinking has me to believe If it were an air leak issue the extra fuel from wot should have made it run better instead of great part throttle and lousy wot. I've ran my banshee out of gas once a few months ago and it felt identical to this. I'm running br9 plugs as well, should I go to a br8? Not related to this issue but j/w. 353cc, stock stroke, .020 over piston, stock reeds, pwk 28, pods, t5s, coolhead 19cc, matoon timing plate @ +4. 138 main and 45pilot. Starts great unless it's below 60* outside, otherwise 1 kick with the chokes pulled will get her going. Bike runs good imo, ran a few cars/bikes that run high 8sec 1/8miles and beat them in a race launching in 2nd to keep the nose down but they come around me in the top end of 6th, stock sprockets and 18in tires.

Fuel is a few months old 104 sonoco with redline premix. Jets did have some powder build up but not bad, they're soaking in Chem dip right now. The floats looked good, I did have fuel in the over flow hose, so I'll reset them as well

Never! I'll give it a go too.

It was running fine in colder weather, this was actually warmer then lately, was 70* out. Don't really ride it of its less then 50 out anyways. It was just running like the fuel was turned off and the bowls we're going dry.

Banshee has ran great and gives me no issues until the other day, went wot and it lost power and popped a few times out of the exhaust. It runs fine into the band a part throttle but once you go wot it feels like it's running out of gas. This happened after I filled it up, the fuel level was about 1/2 inch from being "topped off", put a little too much. Could it be vapor locking the fuel cap vent? It's an alba racing cap with thier short vent. Would that cause this issue? Just took the carbs apart and pulled reeds, all looks good. Going to clean them up real nice and try it out. Plugs looked fine. Any suggestions?

Currently have a 138 and a 45 in my pwk 28s. It was jetted this way when i got it and after 5 gallons of gas i pulled the plugs and they looked fine, i havent had time to do a plug chop but it starts easy and seems to run fine. I do have to use choke to get it started if its below 45ish outside. Im at 600ft. stock motor with t5s, cool head 19cc, +4*,stock reeds, pwk 28 with pod filters, May buy some vf4s later on. What size jets should i use for around 20-30 degrees?

^ My banshee came with those green led strips you buy at auto parts stores hooked into the headlight circuit and they worked. I did however remove them.

Had the same issue, it'll eventually go out completly. What I found to be my problem was the nut for the pancake bolt on the clutch had come off, the falling and returning of the clutch was the nut backing off and when it came off there was no clutch at all. Simple fix, pulled clutch cover. Put the washer and nut on, set the cable (use loctite, failure to will result in this), and reassemble.

Sweet, I was debating using the stock/stiffer spring with it.

Hmm seems like it wouldn't matter much on a modded star? Hmm I'll wait on the shift shaft mod, all see how I like the pro shift and mull star first

Can you explain the modded shift shaft ? What difference / feel does it make compared to stock?

Shift lever eccentric bolt is snapped off. What causes that to happen? To much force shifting? Ordered all the stuff to rebuild that part of it. A pro shift and a mull shift star. Hopefully it'll be good to go for a while.