Leadmonster

yeah

no there 28s taken out to 30mm.

crap so I guess i have to get bigger carbs if i do the 7mill. kinda figured i would need to.

Runnin them with my stock stroke lrd port now. They work good but I want more. Prob is I don't want to get bigger carbs or have to put money into the clutch or trans at this point. Just more reliable hp

Thinking of doing some work this winter . How much will a 30mm support? I know I've read stock carbs will handle 70 if im right. Thinking of a 7 mill build, with my stock ported cylenders gitting sent in.

you put it together. take it apart and look. you can tell if something isn't right. just look it over

Your up there. Well ive had PWks on mine. But when i would ride up in elevation fast you can feel the power loss . So your 6500 ft up, = less air So if you have 200s in there for stock jet. Prob not right. Is it cold there? Cold air you might be able to run a bigger jet hard to tell

Yep everyones diff. You can run any type of trans oil you want for wet clutch. I went to gear saver because i didnt like how type f needed to be changed so fast. But it works. Personally if your not just drag racing i dont see the point. I run 36:1 golden spectral. Its been run in my family's bikes for over 20 years. But again there's other oils .

Just run the b8es. Did you look in the jetting section stickies? http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqresistor.asp

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? T5 2) What type of airfilter do you have? Uni w/skins 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all. No box 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ). 0-600 5) What size pilot jets are you using? Na 6) What size main jets are you using? 145 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 60-110 8) Do you have a port job? 10 year old lrd port 9) What kind of carbs? Pwk 10) What size carbs? 30mm 14/40 +4 swing +4 timing Stock stroke motor. Runs like a champ with that old port job . im very happy with this play/dune bike

man if you have low hours on it, just make sure the pistons go back in the same way if your on a budget . your just porting it . clean reassemble. shouldn't be a prob at all. you don't have to put new pistons in every time you take the jugs off. but I do not know if you should put new rings in. mabey someone else can answer that one. id say fresh bore/plate for new rings. idk

you have been running the 33's right?

idk make sure your not loosing spark , or swap carbs to see if you get left plug to do it. you already covered a lot ,mabey pull that pipe and have a look at piston. first id swap carbs. that's just me

So in the 4th pic i have a question. With all that steel shaved off shouldnt the gap be almost un seen around the pressed pin? Or do i see it because it has turned?

So both seals blew and have a tear? Hmm 2 months old. Dont sound right to me. I guess the seals could have been just crap

No

they look nice though

you don't have any idea what the intakes were on organally? there prob just vac lines . I don't know if fuel fuel injected bikes need a vacuum for a regulator but that could be it. just plug them

I know lots of people use type f and like it but if i didnt hold my clutch in for a min before i shifted to first after not riding it would stall

When you put it in gear it stalls .Mine was doing that with type f. Its when you first ride after few days. I went to gear saver dont do it anymore. Try diff oil cant hurt

I just went ahead and sprayed them let dry should be fine. I was just worried about it eating at any glue or how ever they make them. they look fine.

so im replacing the shift shaft and was planning on running different trans oil on reassembly. would it be ok to spray the clutch with brake cleaner and resoak in new oil befor I install it? going from type f to gear saver.