fixitrod

Admitting your problem is the first step

Usually if the quad fits through, you won't be hitting your hands. On a dirtbike the handlebars are the widest part of the bike. It's a whole different world there.

If it's ported, it may be over ported for a stroker. I'm not sure. Depends what all they did. I agree, the longrod will just give you reliablility. If the crank is in good shape now, that would be a waste. Have you advance your timing? 4-5 deg would be good. Sounds like you have a lot done already. More compression and race fuel may be your answer. That's about all I can think of without going nut. Jetting, that's a biggie. Make sure your jetting is dead on or just a touch rich. There is a lot of power to be had in jetting.

Someone else posted it in another forum. I don't remember which or who. Someone else built the web page. I just thought it deserved to be posted here. Here it is. http://www.roostingthedunes.com/clutch_perch_mod.htm

Benefits are more torque and power throughout the powerband because you can pull more fuel and air. They are as reliable as a builder want to make them. If they don't go crazy porting, the can be as reliable as stock for the most part. Maybe even more so because you'll have the crank welded and the quality is higher. Cost, depends on the builder. Crank around $500. Wiseco makes a 4mm long rod. Benefit of the long rod is a little more reliability. There's less stress on the piston skirt. Benefit of the short rod... they are faster. I can't see the reliablility decreasing must at only 4mm though. I can see it at a 7mm. Porting depends.. anyware from $200 for matching up to 500-700 depending how much porting is done. Fuel requirements depends on porting, timing advance, and compression ratios. A builder can make them run on 93 pump gas no problem. Downsides... they are expensive to build. That's it.

I use a fujifilm finepix 3800... same as the new 3000.. identical. They renamed it. It's unbelievable for stills. 6x optical zoom and has an adaptor to add filters and telephoto lens. I've 3x so far that are made just for the finepix. Also works on the new 5000 series finepix. 3.2 megapixel, 60 sec sound vid clips, but I prefer my digi video camera for that. The quality isn't the best on the vid clips. Macro works amazing. Detail is awesome. Here's a pic of my exhaust port I took. I've always had to get the light just right and angle just right with other cameras. Not this one. I pointed and shot that. I love it. And for less that $300, it was a steal. Actually, I paid $209 for that camera. It's awesome. If I bought another camera it'd be the finepix 5000 if I had the money. This is in the non-proffesional line of course. I can't afford a really nice 8 megapixel body style camera.

I have a set of vito's ported cages I'm gonna put on ebay. Pm me if your interested!

Where'd you get those?

How about painting the hubs, putting an inline fuel filter in, installing a tether kill switch (better do that after... 1 thing at a time), lube everything up, bleed the brakes, remove parking brake, how about a bumper or grab bar, new handle bar pad, welding on another set of foot pegs to make them wider, check your brake pads, lube all your cables, make sure your grips are glued on good, order any sprockets you may be changing for the new motor, ... I'm sure I can think of something else

Those work for low end but flutter on top end. I'd say go for the tdr reeds. They work better and are cheaper.

Did you take off the cylinders? If so, with the head off, make sure the tops of the cylinders are perfectly flat using a straight edge. I has a little piece of metal make it under the cylinder when I was bolting them on once. Made the head leak. Use a straight edge to check the head and domes too just to make sure. When the head is off, make sure the sleeves didn't move. They should be flush with the top of the cylinder. If they moved... uh oh. , but I dought it. The reason the coolant blows out so fast is because compression from the engine is building up in the cooling system. Not the coolant pump pushing it out that fast. If you take the radiator cap off while it's running, you'll probably see it bubble like crazy at the radiator or even blow out and the smoke will dye down some at the exhaust. Man, I wish we could see it in person. You'll get it fixed.

Might as well put a stroker in there now

Here's an email I got from Jims sand toys "They only make King's Tires in a 20" with 8 paddles. They're $139.00 on 8" wheels and $159.00 on 10"."

Are you asking for things you can do to it? Does he have the whole motor or just the topend?

Turned one inside out, kind of like you do underware.... she still got pregnant.

Sounds like you have bigger trouble than jetting right now. It doesn't run?

Yeah, I think the instructions said 15min.

I hoping this works. This is probably the most common way to mount the front. Hope you can see them. If you look between the pipe and the shock you can see the resivoir.

If you port your cages, tdr reeds seem to be the reed of choice for most and for all types of riding. The thicker ones flutter less on top and the thinner ones give just a touch more snap on the bottom. I'd rather it didn't flutter. Just me though.

You only need one site to become a jetting expert. BenBB, a member here made this site just for us. Click here to become a jetting expert.

Oh yeah, I'll be there too. My plans have come together. I'll be there on the 3rd and leave on the 7th.

Compression is one way to determine pre-igniton along with squish. You need to keep in mind compression ratios, dome angles on the heads , porting, and many factors. Some builders can make a motor run 180psi and never detonate on 93 pump gas. Other don't want too. There are a lot of factors to consider. Some play it safe and mix 50/50 race and gas 160 and over. But your squish is very important. That is the area that keeps the crown of the piston cool. If it's to tight, it gets to hot. YOu don't want that. It will melt down. Remember, fuel cools, oil lubes.

Agreed. I know there are other great builders out there. With my lack of education on the subject, those are the three I would go with. I believe though, Dan Hull and a few other are also great choices. Dan at patriot doesn't like to use long rods until 7mm for the extra performance. Choosing a builder is tough. You want the work done right the first time and spend the money only 1 time.

Our, would you want to sell them?

Excuses Excuses. Just through some paddles on and ride.