fixitrod

I've put one heck of a beating on a barnett dirt digger. I'm suprised it's still good.

How about nerfs for life. Nobody said they didn't work... the fit just sucks.

Never used it on the head either. Worst that can happen is the stud will come out when you try to take the head off. If that happens, just put the stud in a vise to get the nut off. If you need to heat it to get it off, don't heat it on the head if possible. Blue isn't super strong like red. Some people use blue on everything. Don't worry about it. Your motor will be just fine.

When we were at silver lake we saw these people with huge trailers and some of the nicest, cleanest quads I'd ever seen. On the trailer there was a sticker that said.... InThisTrailerThereIsADiseaseToWhichThereIsNoCure It was bad ass. Welcome again to the hq.

I've never used loc-tite on those bolts.

Since you have aftermarket carbs you can switch sides with them. Then you'll be able to tell if it's the carb or something in the engine. If the smoke follows the carbs, you know where to look without chasing your tail all day.

Depends what color the smoke is. White is coolant Blue tint is oil Black is gas

I didn't know meat posted all those torque specs on his site. Awesome.

Cylinder and head bolts are 20 ft/lbs

Did you hear, ac started making frames and a-arms. j/k... Man that'd be some messed up sh!t. They can't get anything straight.

The dome shape is different on Dave Noss's heads. I put a head on mine, added some compression and holy cow. It's a different machine now.

The best and cheapest I found is www.rickystator.com. You can get a stock sized replacement with an adjustable timing plate for $125. They have the big 200 watt ones too if you want extra lighting.

Welcome to the hq. Don't forget there is a great search function at the top to help you find answers you might be looking for.

Do you mean you want him to get a suzuki.

Here was my problem http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=32748&hl=

I don't have the book in front of me to give you the values. The red green is suppose to be around 25 ohms or something and the two whites with stripes are suppose to be around the 120 or 130 area. These are not the right numbers, just close to what I remember. The yellow and black are the lighting circuit.

It does stress the crank bearings more but 150 should be okay.

Suspension !!!!!!!!!! If you aren't looking for wider, start with the elka's!!!!

There was a dyno that mobile dyno or dyno edge or someone posted. It showed a lose in hp with the dmc two into one pipe. The set that has the single silencer but two pipes. That doesn't mean is going to be the same on all motors. If you like them, you like them. It may work on your machine but not another. Like always, there are a lot of factors. If there was always only one best, there'd be very few aftermarket parts.

You will see an improvement with the timing advance. Let us know how that goes.

Might as well stay with good ol wisecos. That's all I run.

Anything that revs high can get you hp. That's just how it work. The torque will get you off the line faster and up a hill faster. It's all give and take. That's why each rider likes a different set up. I'm having a hard time on this monitor telling what colors are what on the charts. Did you jet for each of these pipes. Looks like the fatty's made more power and torque, but they are very close. If I'm looking at the curve right... I still can't tell the colors, the t5 looked smoother on your bike than the fatty's. I have a stroker and I can tell you the fatty's work well on it.

Accoriding to the book yes. Sounds kind of strange to have both not reading right. Maybe it's your meter

You have to jet for each pipe or your wasting your time. I have fatty's and the topend would suprise the crap out of you. There are a lot of factors. A biggie is porting.

We put grey duct tape below our flags.