89mustang

Oh. Thank you ill check that out

It doesn't run right with out the parking brake switch plugged in. It was unplugged we were checking the wires buy the stator. Revving it then he grabbed it pushed the sensor in and it started running good

I did unplug the tors connector from the box. I already ordered the the tors delete kit so that'll be tomorrow's project

It's fixed took it to my neighbors he gave me a hand. It ended up being the parking break being disconnected from the handle bar connection. It runs sweet just gotta fine tune it and put the tors delete on

I've played with the air fuel screws. I have them set at a half turn out. The 340's were recommended by Jeff from fast. As a starting point for cold weather 160# in both cylinders Fresh 93 mixed at 32:1 with maxima 927 oil

I got it all sealed up. It held 6 psi for 10 minutes. I installed the the 30 pilot and 340 main left the needle on the middle clip. Put everything back together. It idles good, but the throttle reponse doesn't seem like it snappy. Could it be the rings aren't seated yet? I'm going to re-torque everything in the morning. Sorry for the Delayed reponse life's been getting in the way haha

I'm sorry I checked they are tight. I have v-force v4 reeds so I had to modify the reed block

I just rebuilt the top end. They've been on for about a week or so

I went back out to the garage and found a couple hose clamps. That fixed it. The reed blocks are leaking, so my question is would I be ok re using those gaskets and putting a little rtv on them and try it again or order new ones?

It must be stretched because it's cranked as far as it will go.

I'll give her hell tomorrow but it was both eyes of the clamps were touching haha

I got everything for the leak down test. The only thing I found leaking was the intake boot on the left hand side where I put the PVC in. I have stock carbs 1" PVC is the only thing that's close enough in size. The boot isn't sealing around that. Any suggestions?

Sorry have been busy with work. Cleaned the carbs. I ordered a tors eliminator and carb synch tool and got #30 pilots and 340 mains for it. Hoping to do a leak down in it tonight. Throttle response is still boggy. Carbs were outta synch as well

I haven't re-jetted the carbs yet. I just want to make sure everything is good before I change anything else. I'll take the stock carb apart tonight and clean it. It's almost like its flooding out now. I'll definitely get some 30 pilots on order though

I haven't fully cleaned the carbs. I made sure the pilot was clean and the main jet. It was warmer it was October. The only thing that changed was the porting,new pistons,and cool head. I know it was going to have to be adjusted I just wanted to make sure everything was good before I changed the jetting. I appreciate all the help so far

Slide was on correctly

Uman I'm going to check right now. I disconnected the tors and parking brake. I started easier and hit on both cylinders. But would only idle with me holding the throttle slightly. If I gave it any gas the rpm seemed like it would not increase and it died out

Yes the reeds have 2 hrs. On them. They still look brand new. It's just frustrating because it was running pretty good until I rebuilt the top end.

I've been messing with it since I got home. Swapped plug wires it didn't move. Tried a new plug didn't make any difference. The tors is still connected. Choke tube is intact and connected. I'll get the stuff tomorrow for a leak down test. It's incredibly hard to start. I'm done for the night ill check the carb synch as well. I've never used an ohm meter. I know what they are for though. The wife has to work a double tomorrow so ill have time

Sorry. I'll still have the 2 factory carbs

I just posted a few days ago I rebuilt my first top end. I took my time a d made sure everything was assembled correctly. I had the cylinders bored by fast and ported I also added a cool head. I finally had the time yesterday to finish putting it together. I put gas and coolant in it and kicked and kicked and kicked some more. It finally fired but then one cylinder dropped off. Then it was hard to start again. I pulled the plug and it has spark and the carb is getting gas. I took the carb off and cleaned everything because it was sitting for about 2 months since I took it apart. It took quite a few kicks until it fired up, both cylinders were firing the the same cylinder dropped off again. I pulled the plugs both were wet. I kicked it over a few times and it fired up fine both were firing then the same cylinder quit firing again. Any ideas? Mods: v-force v4 reeds, adjustable timing plate set at +4, ported cylinders, cool head with 20cc domes, pro design air filter no lid, and t-5's Jetting: 650' elevation 27.5 pilots, needle on third clip, 300 mains

Thank you. I messed with it and figured that was the way it had to go. Gotta do a leak down and fire it up. I'm excited to see how it runs

I wish I could up load pics. It the clymers manual it says the ring ends to center them with the wrist pin hole. The wiesco pistons have a stop its on the side that faces the reed cages they seem like the sit the grooves good. I've never rebuilt a top end before. I just don't want to tear it up on start up. I hope that helps more

That motor looks sweet!!

I just recently got my cylinders back from fast. I had Jeff clean up the cylinders I have a 64.50 bore size. My question is the wiesco pistons I have a dimple in the ring grooves where the ring ends would stop they are staggered. When I was reading my clymers manual it says to center them up with the wrist pin. Which way is correct? I appreciate any help.