blue97shee

Carbs are sold.

Dont have any. Sold my complete swingarm setup today. Sorry.

Most of my pics are too big too upload. Just shoot me a pm or something and I'll text what you want to you, I dont feel like resizing 10 pictures right now.

I cant seem to edit my original post. This is gonna be a mess from hell now. Oh well, sorry guys. I have an update on some things. The set of spindles I posted originally are for new style calipers. I have 2 sets of the front brake hard lines, they are a little bent up from someone removing them in a hurry, but no kinks, definitely useable. Again $15 ea. I have a third set of hard lines for the front, WITH the rubber hoses, bottom fitting clips, and newer style calipers. Would like $75 for the complete setup. I have 2 sets of front hubs, both new style, one powdercoated green stated above, one bare, both sets have rotors, but will need bearings/seals. $45 per set. Rear brake Rezzy, Master, rubber line setup. No caliper or pedal. $30 Extra misc stuff: 1 front brake rubber hose $10 1 Rear brake hose. $10 set of stock chain adjusters $10 Box full of misc Banshee/Blaster bolts and stuff. $10 for the box I'd like to up the price to $450 for the whole lot, cause I forgot i had some of this stuff. Again if my prices are high, make me an offer. I honestly didnt research a whole lot into the pricing. Some quick pictures coming. I will take better ones on request if anyone wants them.

you got a PM returned earlier today. sorry I've been busy today.

I see you're from North Carolina, area code wise. Those prices were not including shipping. I said I would rather not ship them, but if you really want them, I want 150 for either frame shipped. I will text you the pics like I said in the PM

I have 2 frames. Both are a-arm style. Years are unknown. No titles either. One is powdercoated Candy Blue, its an older PC job, but still looks good. This frame has a messed up footpeg bolt on the left side. I was looking for a fix for it a few months back, I have a fix for it I will include for the buyer, it just needs to be welded in place. Second frame is black spray painted, has the usual rear subframe area tweaking. Definitely useable, nothing major just a minor cosmetic thing. $100 for each frame. Stock steering stem with tie rods, straight. $30 Stock front spindles, good condition. $40. Stock front a-arms, straight, good ball joints, couple of the boots have some wear, but are definitely useable. caps and bolts included. $75 Stock front shocks, no leaks, yellow springs, decent condition, $40. Set of black steel handlebars, cheap but useable, $10. Set of silver Renthal Aluminum handlebars and blue pad, Definitely used but decent condition, unknown bend style. $20. Front hubs, good condition, need bearings, powdercoated a strange green, will include good rotors $45. Rear Brake rotor. Solid factory style, nothing fancy. good condition. $15 Set of factory ( I think. They are Dunlops) front tires, not on wheels, fair condition, maybe 50% tread left. $20 for the pair. Factory Carbs. Have TORS eliminator caps, no cable, unknown jets. $30 Front Brake hard lines and hose up to rezzy. $15 Im sure I forgot some small items and style of front hubs/rotors, so I'll update again in a day or 2. If you want the whole lot, I'll take $400 for everything I have, thats about what I have into it all. None of this stuff is exactly show quality, but they are good useable parts. I was trying to toss together a trail bike earlier this season, but lost my job and can't fund it anymore, and am losing interest again. Im gonna be a pain in the ass and NOT accept paypal, I'm stuck in the 90's and don't have an account. I'd REALLY rather not ship the frames or the front tires, it's just a pain in the ass to do it, not to mention expensive. I need this stuff gone quickly, I have a debt to pay this weekend, so I will entertain any reasonable offers. (I can borrow the debt money from my GF but will need this stuff gone ASAP) Its all for sale on Craigslist and Facebook so first come first serve of course. I didn't want to clutter (haha) the thread up with a million pics of every little thing, so let me know what you want and I'll text or e-mail or facebook you the pictures. I'm located in Northwest Indiana. Valparaiso area.

or 513m065...sorry

the 3m may be whats left of the wiseco number. 513M65.00

what fuel are you running right now? at 180psi and +5 timing I doubt premium pump gas is cutting the mustard so to speak.

SO you just need a set of cases?

try one lst time to convince him, then say screw it. Let him melt it down and then say "told ya so"

I got a NIB Renthal 12 tooth front sprocket in a parts lot I picked up. I don't want it, and would be willing to either trade someone for a new 14 tooth sprocket, or I would sell it outright for 12 bucks shipped. I really don't think it needs a picture, but if you want one I can come up with one. Its listed on another forum also, first come first serve. I may end up using it for a paperweight.

I guess one would think it would help (a little) with ring life? I mean when they stopped using it in cars, they had to start putting hardened valve seats in engines because without the lead to lubricate them they would pit up and not seal eventually. Maybe???

What weight are they valved for?

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/rvs/3806752858.html sounds like its all there but the electrics. 800 bucks

I also second the powdercoat thing. But it does look good for now. I dont think it will last long. rattle can paint isnt very tough. Great color though, looks just like my frame, although mine is PC.

I was kinda on the fence about using them. Sounds like I'm gonna go thru ATV Galaxy and just get LSR's and a bunch of other stuff and utilize the discount.

they tend to chew thru the upper arm bushings a bit faster than an a-arm, but thats not a huge deal.

IMO...for right now, I would get the engine squared away as is, maybe a few small and (relatively) inexpensive bolt ons. You can pretty easily find a buyer for your T5's. They certainly arent a bad pipe, but not well suited to MX. Take the money from them and You can easily score a set of Pro Circuits or even FMF fattys, and would probably have a few bucks left over if you searched for a nice used set. Personally I wouldn't go taking the jugs and stuff off for porting until its necessary, You'll have plenty of balls they way it is with a few bolt ons. If you're really serious about the MX thing, the suspension is where you need to put the coin, you'll get nowhere with the factory stuff obviously. Im no expert on suspension setups, but the +2+1 arms and a -1 or -2 swingarm and good shocks will be a good start, to correct the wierd balance of a banshee from the factory. Keep in mind that the banshee was designed for desert racing, and is still fantastic at that, but they need help (suspension wise) to be competitive as an MX bike. Its a piece of cake to make one a rocketship, but what good is that if you're losing ground because of the suspension? Its all out there and it can be done, just make sure you put your eggs in the right basket so to speak.

^^^ ported stock stroke FTW. IMO you'd be crazy to get a 4 mil crank without the 115mm rods.

hell yeah....i bet it runs circles around the original 250....

i might be out of line here....but could you have a long rod engine, and it has .50 over blaster pistons?