dirtdigginjoe

Are the 64mm cyls still available?

Lol, don't get me wrong- It definitely would help if it were in the actual post!

4mil hotrods long rod crank(115mm), bearings and rods tight-300shippedStarted by bansheeboie, Today, 12:43 PM All in the details lol

By chance, your motor's not a 4mil, is it?

It's about an inch or so shorter. Many guys run Blaster pegs and shift levers. Not sure about the brake side, though Sent from the inner depths of your mom's vagina.

If you're running blaster pegs, you can run the blaster shift lever without modification. In case you're not looking to break the bank

Decon, will those hangers work with T5's? (N00bish question, I know)

I've found from working in a bike shop over summers the best way to put on non lock-on grips is taking an air compressor with the narrow blower attachment, and putting it between the flange and bar. You blow the air while pushing the grip on...The air causes the grip to expand and move onto the bar, then it tightens back up. You can also make the grips tighter by stretching them...It can also help make a lower profile for thicker grips (Oury). Example here: But lockons are way better. Btw, the grips in that video are super comfortable on both my bike and my Banshee. Odyssey Aaron Ross, for those who want to run BMX grips. Hope it helps!

PM Sent

Rode it today- tried the 4th gear throttle roll, and it didnt feel as if it were slipping. it feels like it's right at the top, where the pull falls off pretty quickly. Am I just an idiot? lol

On the case end or the lever end? I snugged the screw up, and left a little play in the lever. I didn't bother with trying to adjust the arrows, as if I lined them up, the set screw nut slides behind the PP. I feel like my clutch modulation is maybe 1/8th of my total pull, so something's definitely not adjusted correctly. If I get out of work early enough today I'll look at it again.

I didn't have the bolts bottomed out, as I was afraid of possibly stripping them. They're pretty tight though. No harm in checking them again. I'll try and take it out tomorrow and checking the roll-on-throttle technique. Is the smooth shiny pressure plate surface a concern?

Reinstalled the pressure plate according to the arrows- works a lot better now. When I was tightening down the springs (3 HD, 3 regular), it kept going with effort (I was only using a small socket). Should they bottom out at some point? I feel like it is still slipping though. My pressure plate mating surface is really smooth and shiny- should I replace the plate? I have a spare plate that has less wear on it, if it helps. If I try to line up the arrows on the case with the arm, the adjuster on the clutch doesn't come out far enough for the nut to seat itself on the PP- would that be due to my springs possibly not being tightened down all the way? I remember when taking the plate off that it took some effort to crack them loose. The best thing so far is that the shift from N-1 doesn't make the bike lurch forward anymore, and my Neutral is easier to find! (I feel like it's slipping because once it hits the higher RPMs, it hits them FAST...Am I just an idiot?)

Alright I'll double check the pressure plate when I have time...I didn't know about those markings! I'm praying that's what it is, since I followed the removal process to a tee lol. I wish I didnt have to drain everything again though! Sent from my $700 paperweight.

Yeah, the plate was moving with the lever. I read on here while doing a search that the plates might just be sticking. It was pretty cold out for the little while I had the plates soaking. I'm going to try the suggestion I saw a few minutes ago of putting the rear (giggity) in the air, then clicking into first to let the wheels move freely, so the trans oil can loosen everything up. Everything seemed to be adjusted (fairly) properly, with the exception of the arrows not lining up.

Hi guys, Installed a Barnett clutch kit, and new MotionPro cable today. After putting in the fibers/steel/cushions and adjusting the screw as best I could, the two arrows still did not line up on the cases. The arm is still off to the right of the mark, but I read on here that that's fairly common. I got it all back together, and when I started it and put it in gear and released the clutch...it sounded like it was slipping, and my RPM's would barely drop..not even enough to stall. Any idea what it might be? Any help is appreciated!

Yeah my bad- I did a quick Google search on my phone, and the last modified date was different than the post date

How much? And pic?

Are the Ohlins shocks still available? Sent from my $700 paperweight.

Is the clutch an OEM setup? And is it still available?

Would these work on a +2+1 a arm setup?

Hey is the clutch still available?

Damn, if it were stock black, I'd totaly go for it!

Pretty simple, really. Picked up this used '99 2 weeks ago, and looking to make changes already lol. It came with this billet grille that I'm actually not a fan of. I'm looking to trade it for a stock one, or one that's PCed black. Looking to go with a black/silver theme, and this grille is just killing it lol. It's currently at Diggin Racing for some maintenance, but if someone wants it, I'll grab it as soon as I have the quad back. Let me know what you have, and work something out! I'm located in Long Island, NY -Joe