jsinar

Anybody ever made them for the powercore 2 silencers? Just found out where we're going to ride next weekend requires spark arrestors.. Could I just take the end caps off and take some wire screen and sandwich it between the tip and the can?

Far as i know it's stock, fmf fattys/power core 2's, cool heads, v-force reeds..

What are you guys who ride in the mountains running for gears? Mine is geared 14/41 now, I've got a 13 I can put on, Planning on a ride at the end of the month at wolfpen gap in central Arkansas, Should I go 13 or leave the 14? Tires are 20x11x9

Sell me your stock plastic. lol.

I agree it looks bad ass without them, any idea if it'll gain any mph topend with them gone?

So my idea of fixing the scratches didn't work, made it worse. So I'm about to cut my fenders, going to leave the "wings" like I've seen on some pictures.. I try to avoid all mudholes as it is now, but sometimes you can't. My main concern is how bad is it as far as getting dirt and crap in your face is it with cut fenders vs. uncut?

How much for the black rear plastics?

Looking for some black fenders that's uncut, front and rear.. preferably in great shape, no gouges or anything.

Is anyone here running black and red fenders? I've seen the SE that has black fenders and red shroud, but I'm looking for one that has black fronts and red rears, like the setup mine has with the black and white.. Thinking about ordering new plastics and was wanting an idea on how it would look.

From the way it runs and the way the plugs look, it's jetted almost perfect, but I want to do a couple of things to the bike. Will I have to re-jet for adding an adjustable timing plate and running it +4 timing? Right now it has a k&n filter with airbox and lid with snorkel, if I pull the snorkel off will I need to jet for that?

Also, can I just eyeball or measure the idle gap before I remove the tors so I can get the screws set pretty much dead on the first time around?

I'm about to order one of those vito's tors removal kits, and while I've got it tore down I'm going to clean the hell out of the carbs, is there anything else I need? Are the bowl gaskets re-usable? or any other gaskets or o-rings inside the carbs that need to be replaced?

Hate to dig up an old thread, but what front tires are those?

I picked up one of those 3m headlight restore kits today, comes with the wheel for a drill and pads from 400 to 2000 grit. I'm going to try that, as long as I get the deeper scratches out iI can live with a little matte finish, I think the black parts would look good, but idk about the white..

or what about the paint/clear made for r/c cars? I've painted a couple of bodies and beat the hell out of them and the paint's still there.. Granted you paint them from the inside, the plastic twisting and bending hasn't made the stuff chip yet..

I want to freshen up my plastics, I don't want to change the color, I like the black/white scheme... Would it work to just sand/scuff them good to smooth the scratches out, then hit the whole thing with some 2000 grit paper and just use krylon fusion clear to give it some shine again?

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/222/958/-/-/195424/ Just got this one a few days ago, haven't been on a long ride yet, just running around the field, it seems like it's going to be a good one for the $.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Armadillo-Full-Chassis-Skid-Plate-YAMAHA-BANSHEE-350-/290599051919?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a90da28f&vxp=mtr Look how the skidplate has that goofy twist to it in the neck of the frame, I really don't think that frame is bent..

Does anyone make a carrier that has better chain adjustment?

I'm thinking about cutting the center tube off my upper carrier bolt, like the early ones, so I can use 2 shorter bolts instead of one long one, seems like you could tighten it down better like that.

He be goin an getin dose spinnas and shit nes week dawg. yeeeh

Mines also got that little offset spot above the circle. Think it's how it's made

The first time I adjusted it it was about .5" difference, then I took a ride, and when I got back to the house it had hella slack in the chain, I guess I didn't get the bolts tight enough and it pulled the chain side closer to the front.. This time I got on both ends of the bolts with a 13" ratchet and pusing with my foot on one and pulling on the other got them as tight as possible, anything tighter I'll have to use an impact on it. Maybe that will keep it from moving.

could anyone with a stock swingarm and stock axle banshee get me the measurement from center of the front hub to center of the rear on both sides? While putting my chain on and adjusting it I noticed that the right rear wheel is almost 1.5" in front of the left. going by front to rear hub measurements and measuring off the nerf bar to the tire. I can't see anything bent, so I have no idea why it's like this.

The offset's not that bad, maybe an inch or a little more, I'm over that now. lol. I was trying to figure out what it was so I could get the correct lock nuts for it, that cheap-o aluminum one that came on it, the threads aren't in that good of shape.