Zillaguy

Hey, how'd you know i was doing this naked?! [emoji12]

They should still work properly, just not speced exactly how i want. Im thinking 2° shouldn't hurt it. But yes, i have more into tooling than i would have paid to just let a pro port them. The Matco long shank solid carbide burr tool kit was $250 by itself, and only contains 3 bits. Then the old 90° pencil grinder broke, so i had to buy a new one $243 from Snapon and the 1/8 solid carbide burr set was $100. I have the tooling now, so im not going to stop, i have 3 other sets of virgin cylinders to play with if these don't work. Got to start somewhere, and sometime, no better time than now!

Exhaust opens 79°ATDC, and transfers open 112° ATDC

When i measured just now i got 33° of blowdown. My ex port comes in slightly higher than i would have liked. It's measuring 202°, and transfers are 134°. Damn! I hate screwing up, it is my first though. I give the guys who do this and are masters at it huge credit, it's not easy. One false move, or too much pressure, incorrect cutting speed, angle of the tool to the port hole, and it's over.

That may be^, but the glass usually blocks the mechanics, up or down. In my experience if it's in the way, remove it.

Yes, but you need to inspect all related parts. Most times the window glass will need to be removed to access all the moving parts easily. Im betting the lock lever on the door latch itself is the culprit. Probably rusted.

The lock cylinder IS removable, but once it's in your hand it, itself is peened together. You can't dismantle it. More than likely it's the latch mechanism that's rusted and seizing. You'll need to take the door panel off and inspect all the moving parts. I've had luck soaking the latches in mineral spirits, then in ATF to free them up.

Yes the bike will be dynoed and dyno sheets will be posted in this thread. As far as the R3's go, the first set is at the chromer right now. They are designed for 500cc and bigger.

Sleeper are you meaning the boost port starting right at the floor pretty flush to the radius? I was thinking that too, that it would act like a scoop when the air passes across/through it.. i was afraid to break through the bottom. I already had to weld up the outside around the boost ports near the rear mounting studs so i could open them up as far as i did.

Yeah that old copper magnet works sweet!

It's really hard to see in the picture but the inside of the intake is ground out almost like a tunnel up to the mouth of the boost port. Almost a tear drop shape before the mouth of the port

Finished intake, the dime is for size reference on the boost ports.

The transfers need some more work for sure. im afraid to go any further until i get the angles correct, then I'll blend them all the way, and get that divider a little thinner. As far as the boost parts. How much bigger can i go? Can i take it all the way up to the sleeve? Can i make them taller? As of right now, id say they're just over 3/8" dia. but i haven't measured them.

Tom*

The specs i got from 2 weeks ago are identical to the ones Tricked just posted. Same exact specs. I know from my days of Maico dirt bikes, when you have a flat roof you need a generous chamfer.

They aren't fiinished yet, i still have to sand the ports out and polish the exhaust. When i degreed the ports in the ex only got raised about 2ish mm and the trans about the same. I started with virgin 64mm cylinders. These pics are of just the rough in. Why won't a squared ex port work? I've seen lots of old school port jobs with squared ex ports scream.

The only difference is the added boost ports

I did copy a set of Tom Borrinks og drag cylinders setup for Rocket Pipes. Tom actually gave me all the specs.

Because you failed, i will too?

Why do you say that?

Gotcha. Most of it was done with the Matco die grinder. 18yrs ago i paid $200 for the kit, it came with straight and 90° die grinders, and some stones, 2 rol-roc pads, and the wrenchs for the chucks.

That was the Matco long shank burr tools

It's an oldy, got it from my dad actually. So to me it was free. I know my Snap-On dealer has a straight one on his truck, i think it's about $350ish.

These are some pics i took while doing my first real port job. Im using Matco long shank burr tools for steel and aluminum, and a 1/4" straight Matco die grinder for the big areas. For the angled transfer areas im using a Snap-On pencil grinder with a 90° head, and various 1/8" rotary files/burr tools. It's going to be a "drag" port, stock stroke, 64.50mm bore. Port times are 200°ex/134° trans. Transfers pitched towards the center, opening simultaneously at an upswept angle. Exhaust outlet is 38mm, and port is widened up to 1.5mm from the front transfers. The plan is to run it on alky. What are my best, easiest to tune carb options? I see a lot of people using Lectrons. They are jetless, correct?

Prices?