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turbowrenchhead

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Everything posted by turbowrenchhead

  1. I'm looking to replace my white ones soon. Does anyone know what year model I should be looking for?
  2. Is the maier real close in quality and design as the oem?
  3. how much shipped to WI via greyhound?
  4. I'm not kean on painting white plastics black. Get a scratch and its going to stick out. I can get oem fenders with my discount for $400
  5. If you go to an area where there are trails and dunes. How do the paddle tires do with trail riding? Do they kick out on corners more?
  6. What about the fronts? The single ridge in the center the best for turning?
  7. If you have the time to build it right and patient you can find some really good deals on this site or ebay. I got a lot of my stuff cheaper then retail. Check out my frame off http://www.bluetraxx.com/forums/yamaha-yfz350-banshee-1987-present/83475-my-1987-banshee-build.html
  8. Rode it 30 hours and blew it up. So I'm already on my second build.
  9. Took me 1.5 years and $9000 and I'm still not done. I want a 4.0 IMS gas tank and black oem fenders.
  10. I'm curious to know how much of a difference they make? Never had the opportunity to try it for myself. Any recommendations on a certain tire? Not looking to spend a shit ton. I'm probably going to use them once a year if that.
  11. I don't know how one would classify my motor. I did all the port work myself. If I change my base gaskets then I have to change domes again. I had .015 thick paper base gaskets in it just prior. It changed my compression by 10 psi. So I was at 170 psi. I went back to the .030 oem's and it dropped to 160psi. Replaced the 20cc's with 21's and now I'm at 150psi. Since the bike is running good. I'm leaving it till the next blow up.
  12. I got it back together last night. Now I'm at 150psi on both cylinders. Have a .055 squish. Passes leak down test. I took it for a short street run and it feels stronger then it ever did.
  13. I'm looking to buy outright if the price is right.
  14. I am using an oem base gasket. I really don't want to go to a paper gasket.
  15. My squish is at .060 with the 20cc's. I'll redo a compression test and a squish test with the new domes when they come.
  16. My first rebuild I ended up with 130psi cranking compression w/ 20cc domes. The dyno set me up with 350 mains. This was with a cfm air box with foam filters. The cfm didn't pan out so well. I was getting a lot of water/dirt into the box and then running right into the carbs. I sold the cfm and went to a direct bolt K&N w/ prefilters. I blew the quad in WV on my last trip. I'm currently got the cylinders bored to 65.50 now and new cast pistons. The pistons must of have a higher dome on them because my compression is now at 160psi with 20cc domes. I have a set of 21cc domes on the way which should put me at 150psi. So my question is when you raise your compression does it require richer or leaner jetting. I have read that a raise in compression has more pull on the carbs therefore pulling more fuel.
  17. I forget who asked. I got some bigger gauge solder today. Test results are .060 squish and 160psi cranking compression.
  18. I will when I make it rich. For now I have to get by with what I have.
  19. I'm don't know how to calculate my real compression ratio. The only thing I have to go off of is my kicking compression. I imagine that is true with the other 95% of the other members.
  20. But they can change compression. The paper gaskets were .15 as opposed to .30 on oem's. That made a 10psi change.
  21. The old ones were not very old. Maybe 30 hours on them. I had 130psi on them right after the first rebuild.
  22. Thanks for the input everyone!
  23. I have to get bigger solder. I only have .050 gauge and it doesn't catch.
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