JoeStar85

Anyone know of a reputable shop that has a dyno around Erie,Pa? Cleveland, Buffalo, and Pittsburgh are all about 2 hours away from me and I figure there has got to be a good shop with a dyno somewhere around here that knows what they are doing. Im curious to see what my 4 mil does and want some numbers.

I have not had it dynoed. Kevin estimated around 60-70hp. FMF Fatty's with turbinecore 2's, stock carbs with TORS eliminator, K&N with outerwearn no lid

I originally had Kevin ship me the parts. I tore the motor apart and was about to put the crank in but decided to ship everything back to Kevin after seeing a crank rod snap and trash a motor with little run time with the same setup I was doing. I upgraded to a 4mil Hot Rods crank, MX Hardcore port and polish, 23cc domes with chariot head, chariot reed cages, +4 timing plate, shift star mod, case matching. I was around $2,000 but I also ordered some other parts for the quad also. Kevin does excellent work with a quick turnaround time.

I was in the same boat as you, not sure how far I wanted to take it. I ended up having kevin at HJR build my motor with a 4mil Hot Rods crank, hardcore port and polish, chariot head with custom cut domes, +4 timing, shift star mod, Chariot reed cages, and wiseco pistons. Let me tell you that I couldn't be happier with my setup. I do mostly woods riding with some fields here and there and my bike rips. I would reccomend Kevin at HJR, his service and quick turn around time is great. If you decide to go this route make sure you do not skimp on any aspect of your build, you get what you pay for.

I moved the clip from the 3rd position to the 4th and now it is running a little to lean (porcelen is dark and light shades of brown and the first ring on the threads has no color. I did this in Erie at around 700ft. My question is if I put my air box lid back on and possibly the snorkel also do you think it would richen it up enough to ride in Erie, then when i ride in warren at elevation between 1,100-2,000ft remove the air box lid to lean it out to compensate for the higher elevation? Does the airbox lid make that much of a difference? I'm just trying to figure out the best way to set it up so I don't have to tear everything apart when I change locations. I measured and readjusted the floats and It help a little but still dripping a tiny bit of gas out of the right carb so I ordered a new needle valve and seat for it. I would post pictures of the plug but I can never get the link to the picture to work

Setup FMF Fatty pipes, turbinecore 2's 4 mil Hot Rods Crank MX hardcore port and polish Chariot Head (not sure what cc the domes are, setup for 93 octance) +4 timing K&N with outerwear, Stock air box with no lid Tors Delete Kit (Everything is disconnected and taped up) Kevin at HJR put the motor together and did all tests, air leak/squish 27.5 pilot's/air screw 1.5 turns out, needle clips in stock postion, 330 mains I synced the carbs using the tool from FAST (Reads 5 at idle and 19 just under half throttle) 32:1 Supertechniplate and 93 octane I live and do some riding around 700ft in Erie,PA..... I will be doing most of my riding in Warren, Pa with elevations from 1,100-2,000 ft The temperature around here has been 80-90 degrees I did all the initial tuning in Erie (I had the pilot air screw at 1 turn out). It ran good until I started cruising at 1/4 throttle then went to slightly accelerate, It would bog until I gave it a lot of throttle. The plugs seemed to be pretty close to good (evenly Light Brown/mocha color). Then I took it to Warren,Pa the other day to do some riding. I had to choke it to start and kicked it about 8 or 9 times (Started first kick every time at lower elevations in Erie Pa) It seemed to run almost the same way it did in Erie, and I turned the air screw out another 1/2 turn to let some more air in hoping it would help compensate for the elevation a little bit. But still had the same problem bogging down trying to slightly accelerate from 1/4 throttle. So I figure I should move the needle clip from the stock postion up one notch to lean it out because I think it is letting too much fuel in? I pulled the choke out while riding and it just about shut off from too much fuel. The biggest problem I had in Warren was if I proceeded to accelerate from a dead stop on an incline or go really slow up a hill the bike completely fell on its face and I had to rev it to the moon to get up the hill. If I was already cruising along at a good rate I did not notice this problem. After riding I pulled the plugs and they were running rich but not gunked up just a black color. I then discovered I was leaking some gas out of the right carb out of the bottom drain tube. I adjusted the floats in both carbs by eyesight while I was reassembling the bike recently after my total rebuild (I thought they both looked dead even but maybe I messed that up). I also cleaned the needle valves and seats using the toothpaste and cotton swab trick and ended up installing a new needle valve and seat in one carb, I also put a new gasket in one to replace a torn one ( but i can't remember which carb has the new one....shit). I read that the filter in the gas cap can get clogged and cause a vacuum that would push gas out of the drains in the carb, but the gas is only coming out of the right carb. My last problem is soot on the spark plugs from the plug wires and cap (The tips of the spark plugs are stuck in the caps so when I install new plugs I have to unscrew the tip off the new plug, I tried getting them out with needle nose pliers but had no luck). Kevin said they are arching and the wires could be bad and that I could cut the ends of the wires and recconect them. My question is that the coil and wires only had about 3 hours of run time on them when this problem started. The previous owner installed the current one on the bike the night before I purchased it beause he said it wouldn't run. What do I need to look for to make sure this is the correct setup. Possibly could be a cheap one or not the correct part. I have not done a plug chop test yet and It will be done soon. Just trying to work out the hiccups and hear some advice on any tunning tips or info. I also talked to a guy who seemed knowledgeable and owned a couple banshees used for drag racing and flat track. He said I should look into replacing the stock needle with an aftermaket on with different taper and length. Anyone have some input on that?

I just got my bike put back together a few days ago. I had HJR put a 4 mil hot rods crank, MX hardcore port and polish, new reeds and cages, chariot head, advanced timing, and a couple other things. All I have to say is that the bike rips. I do the same style riding you do, trails to fields and racing my buddies on the straight aways. If you want more power this is the way to go. Let me tell you in advance , DO NOT TAKE ANY "CHEAP" ROUTES. Make sure you get quality parts and install. Good luck with your build

2 short runs while riding today Youtube Youtube

Not sure why my link to the pictures didn't work in the first post.... try these [/img] [/img]

Kevin at HJR did an outstanding job with my motor! I couldn't ask for any better or faster service. Kevin either answered his phone or contacted me back very quickley everytime. I would reccomend him to anybody looking to get work done, awesome guy. My bike rips and I couldn't be happier with the final result. Thanks again Kev! 4 mil Hot Rods Crank Chariot Head, Domes cut for 93 octance Wiseco Pistons Chariot Reed Cages, boyseen reeds Hardcore MX port and Polish Case matching +4 Timing plate Shift Star CLICK LINK FOR PICTURES Banshee Pictures

I needed to do some machining on my swingarm and need to know the length of the swingarm between th frame rails where the pivot bolt goes through. Anyone know. I measured between the frame and came up with 9 1/8"

I have never messed with aligning the front end before and am having some difficulties trying to figure it out by trial and error. I am installing stock length RPM Industries a arms. Everything is out of wack. What is the best way to attack the front end? I see that the stock tie rod should be 14.2" end to end. So i started by adjusting the tie rods to the correct length ( I know I will probably have to tweak them a bit). Anyone have any measurements that would help me out? I'm not sure how far i need to thread the upper and lower ball joints into the a-arm or if there is a certain position the ball joints need to rest into the bracket with the wheel to keep them from wearing horribly. Any help is appreciated. thanks

I bought a set off Zilla.

So what did you go with? Im in need of new a arms because my ball joints are shot also. Wasn't planning on doing any suspension mods yet but now i am forced to. I want a good quality product but don't want to spend top dollar because it has a fancy sticker on it, if you know what i mean.

Im looking for the main pivot bolt for the swingarm. you have it?

Finally got it out, what a pain in the ass. Thanks for this tips

Craigslist is always a suprise, people never cease to amaze you. I had my leather Icon motorcycle jacket listed on craigslist. Guy calls me about it and asks how long i have owned it then tells me his same exact jacket was recently stolen from a local bike night. He accused me of stealing his jacket and told me if i gave it back to him he wouldn't press charges. People are idots, i told him to call the cops if it makes him feel better. Sucks he got his $600 jacket stolen but you don't just call someone up and accuse someone of theft. Just to piss him off I told him if he didn't have any luck recovering his jacket that I would sell him mine!

Im gonna try that bottle jack trick on it tomorrow. I couldnt get the sawzall blade in between the frame and the swingarm without cutting into one. If that don't work i'm gonna cut the swingarm off, which i really don't want to do because I'm tired of buying more and more parts for this damn thing. I cant believe that bolt won't come out! I hit it so hard with a sledge hammer that the threaded end is mushroomed out. It's crazy that i can spin the bolt with a small wrench now and it still won't move side to side.

Kevin is a great person to do business with. He received my motor last Monday and shipped it out to me today. He did a 4 mil crank build for me. Can't wait to get it back in the bike and test it out. You can't go wrong with kevin

Any suggestions on getting the shaft out? I have the nut and washer off the stator side of the bike but cannot get the shaft out. I have heated both ends up pretty good but can't break the clutch side loose. Is the shaft threaded or can I knock it out with a hammer?

Well........i have my cases split and was panning on installing my 4 mil crank tomorrow. After seeing this thread i went and checked the crank and it has 29L/R on the rod. Not sure what the hell to do now. I would be super pissed if that happens to my motor after all the money i have spent in parts up to this point.

My 4 mil kit will be here in a day or two. Gotta tear the motor apart to install it

Motion Pro Clutch Holding Tool This is what i was looking for. I guess it's a holder and not a puller.

I need to purchase a clutch puller. where can i get one?

Thank you