JoeStar85

I am going to have my buddy take my shift star to his shop so he can round the edges. Is there a certain amount to cut off when rounding the edges? I don't want to mess it up. Thanks Joe

I got them off....they were stuck on there good though!

I got the head off. I was saying that the cylinders wont pull off the from the motor. My bad, I worded my question wrong

I pulled all the bolts around the cylinders. The cylinder heads will not pull off the motor. Any tips on gettin them loose? I was thinking I should put some heat to it.

I am just looking to add some more power to the bike. I already need to rebuild the top end so i was checking around to see what i could upgrade to get some more power. $1500 is already a little more than i was planning on spending on the motor. any ideas?

I am also pondering doing the 4 mil to my motor also. All i have on it now is FMF fatties with turbinecore 2's and K&N filter. The compression is kinda low (115 on both) so i have to do a top end anyway. I just bought my banshee 2 weeks ago, and i am still learning this machine (mostly by reading all the articles on this site, but i am confused as to what is the best setup for me). I mostly ride trails and don't want to have issues with overheating or ridablility in the woods. I would like to have as much power as possible without worry about stringing the motor out to the point where it could blow up. Do you think the motor work shown in the first post is the route i should go?

Borrowed a compression tester from a buddy and retested the cylinders. Both are reading 115. I am not able to ride it for the next 3 months. So i am thinking what i want to do with it. I want to add some more power to it without spending rediculous money. I am going to re ring it and hone the cylinders. Any ideas about what upgrades are good for mostly trail riding. Anyone know how much a port and polish would be? Thinking about V force reeds and cages. Im new to the banshee scene, any opinions as to what upgrades you reccomend and why would be appreciated. As of now all i have on it is FMF fatty pipes turbinecore 2 silencers and a K&N air filter. Thanks Joe

I took the exhaust off and had my friend who is pretty knowledgeable with two strokes inspect the pistons, rings, and what you could see of the cyclinder through the head where the pipe attaches ( I didn't remove the head). He said everything looked fine and nothing seemed like it was too worn. So I went to a local shop and got 27.5 pilot jets. Tore the wheeler back apart and realized they were not the correct jets for the carb so I left the 25's in there. I resynced the carbs and i got them pretty darn good this time. I have the pilot air screws at 1 turn out and adjusted the idle while it was running. It seemed to idle fine and is now response on bottom end. I put new spark plugs in and ripped it up the street and a 3rd gear wide open i shut it off so i could do that plug test that i read on here (the picture is below). One plug is brown and the other is barely even colored, just on the tip a little. The weird part is the plug with no residue this time was black before. It seemed to run fine and is not cutting out or bogging down when i let of the throttle like it was before.

Do i need to drain the coolant before removing the head?

The thread length for the compression tester is about half the length of spark plug thread length

Here is some more info i got today when i messed with it. It blows a normal amount of smoke when the engine is cold started. Once i rip it up the road and back i notice it really isn't blowing smoke at all like it is way too lean once it warms up. And it seems to warm up quick. It idles a little bit when it is cold also. I looked through the post with all the different setups with every brand of pipes on this site and i see a decent amount of people are still using the 25 pilot jet with the same setup i have. I can't get a 27.5 in town so i would have to order it. Is there anything i can change in the carb to possibly fix this situation using the stock pilot. Like the air screw or changing where the clip is? I just bought this thing last week and have been itching to get it good enough to ride this weekend because i won't get another chance to ride it at all for about three months. I did a compression test at WOT and got 90 on each cyclinder. But i also read that the chamber for the compression tester must be the same length and diameter as the spark plug to get a correct reading and the one i used wasn't even have the size of the spark plug. SO i don't know how accurate my results are. I pulled the spark plugs and the cyclinder that is firing all the time is black (left cylinder if you are sitting on quad). The other is a brownish color (right cylinder).

I have the TORS (i think i wanna get rid of them) I have the stock pilots in. The instructions said to leave the clip in the stock position so i didn't mess with that. I only changed the main jet like it said in the instructions. I thought it would run fine because it was running good before i changed the exhaust so i didn't bother tearing the carb completely apart. I guess i was way off on that thought! I also have the leaking gas out of the carb problem, which i saw the link on how to fix that with the toothpaste trick bt not before i had it all put back together. Now it seems like it is dumping way more gas out of the carbs than it did before. I guess i have some work a head of me!

Thanks Wildcard2 i will take a look at those I probably messed it up when i tried to get the slides adjusted. It ran pretty good and always fired on both cyclinders with the stock air filter, pipes and silencers so im thinking it shouldn't be anything major. My buddy checked it out when i bought it and told me that the slides needed adjusted which was the only reason i attempted syncing them. I also never touched the pilot air screws after putting the exhaust on it. I never really messed with any carbs before so it's kinda greek to me. I have the factory service manual and have been trying to use that as a guide to anything i do. I do know that the previous owner put a brand new coil on it right before i bought it and after taking the plastics off i can see it is new.

I just bought this banshee last saturday and am still trying to learn the in's and outs of this machine. Its a 1998 all stock with the exception of the K&N air filter and FMF Fattys with turbinecore 2 silencers and 260 main jet the kit came with that i just finished installing tonight. I am about 500ft above sea level. It is bogging out and not firing on the right cyclinder at idle. Both cylinders fire when i get into the throttle about 1/4 turn. I assume this is a carb issue but I don't know where to start. Before i even finished putting the exhaust on I attempted to sync the carbs. At full thottle both carbs had the ping mark in the sight glass so i then tried to adjust the slides so they opened in unison. I had a hard time getting them to open exactly the same. I got them to the point where they both moved at the exact same time but it seemed like one side would move at a higher rate on the way up even though they intially started moving at the same time. So I stopped there and hoped it would be good but it is not. Like i said all i changed in the carb was the main jet to a 260. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you Joe

For some reason I thought the stock silencers would fit but I was wrong. I ended up ordering turbinecore 2 silencers yesterday.

I just bought a 1999 banshee on saturday and it came with a brand new set of FMF fatty pipes. I just took the stock pipes off tonight and attempted to install the FMF pipes. I am using the stock silencers for now. But i see that i need to pull what looks like an insert out of the stock silencers to connect them to the fmf pipes. I couldn't get the inserts out or even to budge at that. Any help would be much appreciated on how to get these inserts out? or if i am going the wrong way about it. Thank you Joe