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Everything posted by registered user

  1. registered user
    anybody have direct experience with the +4 wsm forged crank from tdr or the vitos +4 ? not concearned about the case bearings or rods as ill pull it apart and use my own rods and case bearings. just wondering if the webs and center pin on either of these cranks are good. crankworks is saying $1000 for their billet +4 webs so im looking for a cheaper option that would still hold up
  2. registered user
    not sure who did this one http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=92161
  3. registered user
    well maybe i do care who makes the nut. dont want nothin from china or taiwan
  4. registered user
    cool. i didnt know they were a machine shop ? honestly i dont care who makes the nut as long as it aint a piece of shit
  5. registered user
    whos KAN ? you have a timeline for when the nuts will be available ? been looking to order the cover for a few months now but without a nut it wont do much good. what brand bearing you using in the cover ? sorry for all the questions. just wanting to get a idea what parts are supplied with the covers
  6. registered user
    you wouldnt think so. which makes it hard to understand whats taking so long
  7. registered user
    im sure lectrons are nice if theyre sorted out. with the wrong needle they can be a real pain in the ass
  8. registered user
  9. registered user
    if your refering to stock cylinders then i would think the windows are a benefit for sure. i would even bet money on it. however on something like a cub or other cp cylinders im doubting there would be a hell of alot of difference in power either way. mostly because it has large boyesen ports. maybe there would be a small difference but im thinking it wouldnt be much we know for sure you dont need windows for long life of the wristpin bearings. windows couldnt hurt but arent necesarry
  10. registered user
    if your using oem intake manifolds you only need a gasket between reed block and cylinder. oem manifold has a rubber oring gasket already. for aftermarket manifolds youll probly need 4 gaskets. between reed block and cylinder and manifold and reed block
  11. registered user
    without piston windows the engine would be a piston port of sorts since theres no boyesen ports, atleast on stock cylinders. even though theres still a reed cage, the piston would determine when the intake opens and closes. with windows or boyesen ports the crankcase is open 360*. without piston windows on a stock cylinder i imagine you would lose power for sure windows probly do help the wristpin bearing get more lube but i dont think the windows are 100% necesarry in this regard. many engines have no piston windows and manage to run for alot of years with no problem at the wristpin bearing
  12. registered user
    should of also got one of their aluminum nuetral switch covers while you were at it. the plastic ones seem to always be cracked
  13. registered user
    maxload (deep groove ballbearing) can be purchased with or without a clip. tz (cylindrical roller bearing) can also be purchased with or without a clip, along with numerous different cage materials. theres quite a few different companies that make these bearings depending on what brand you prefer. if theres no name on your bearings then their junk from china
  14. registered user
    should be clip bearing on the clutch side. just send it back and get one with a clip. they make the groove when they make the bearing. only time you might want to machine a groove is if you were using tz style on both ends then you may want to use a clip bearing in the center but you would cut a groove in the case not the bearing. this situation doesnt pertain to you however
  15. registered user
    rarely do you see any problems with webs, atleast i havent anyways. once in a blue moon youll see the flywheel snout snap off but 99% of the time it seems the rod is always the problem. with good rods and crank pin and case bearings i would think youll be fine with wang webs but then again ive never used them. vitos or hotrods webs should do the job fine i would think also.
  16. registered user
    yep when the rod lets go there usually aint much left to salvage. ive got a crankshaft assembly im gonna try that should be far better than any of the current available stuff. if it proves to be reliable ill let you know but i want to try it first before i start recomending untested parts. its mostly all jap components which ive had good luck with on other engines. in the meentime you might try the gold hotrods. dont know much about em but they cant be any worse than the grey ones from taiwan
  17. registered user
    what happened on the banshee. rod went tits up ?
  18. registered user
    you meen for weight reduction those pistons are from seperate batches. probly a early style and later style. the top numbers are either the forging number or maybe a batch number. like i said before wiseco changes shit more than people change underwear. suprised theres no coating yet. they put that stuff on some of the newer pistons
  19. registered user
    the little oval symbol is on all the hotrods stuff ive seen. since the rods are grey theyre taiwan and not worth pissing on
  20. registered user
    been more than 1 or 2 rods snap in half thats for sure
  21. registered user
    sweet ! another snowplow
  22. registered user
    wiseco changes little shit (and sometimes big shit) on their pistons more than most people change underwear. some of the honda stuff has changed numerous times in the last couple years. i think the top numbers are the forging numbers and bottom is a partnumber
  23. registered user
    not gonna say if you should or shouldnt use a spacer. thats your call but from my experience with them on various engines, the chance of a leak is very low, probly near zero, if all the mating surfaces are flat. never tried it with dry gaskets though so i cant speak for the results of that. always used some kind of sealer
  24. registered user
  25. registered user
    aint nothing wrong with diff oil. in subzero temps it probly isnt the best choice but the other 8mnths of the year its fine. some of the older engines from back in the day had diff oil speced in the service manual. as far as bottom ends are concearned nothing really has changed since the 70's

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