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i have my own thoughts how wide it can be without any problem but enough about that. im certain the V shape acts like a snowplow and forces the air somewhat toward the outside walls. thus decreasing the affective area of the window. thats another reason im not a fan of the steeply slanted roof to the window. on the rounder shape air can pass over it without being forced outward

traditional triangled divider. dont understand why people keep doing it. cant think of a worse shape to use. i bet even zillafuk would have more sense than that

godamit man i told you i dont know everything. just alot more than you

513 series is no good with 4mil 115 rod ?

when i got mine it was bogging pretty bad at lower rpm. pilots were 2 sizes to small. simple test you might try turning your airscrews almost all the way in and see if the bog decreases or goes away. that should be a indication your pilots need a size or so bigger

when a rod breaks you may as well throw everything but the transmission in the scrap bin. if you had good luck with oem and hotsrods then i see no reason you should change. i prefer to over build stuff alittle so i dont have to worry about it coming apart. wasnt my intention to change anyones way of thinking. cant remember what thread but some dude had a rod let go and it didnt look like there was much left to salvage while back i posted the full volume of these engines with stock components. after you install the +4 crank, 115 rod, 795 piston, vf4 etc, your case ratio changes. most people dont fool with anything under the piston but you can take the ratio higher or lower depending on which parts you mix and match.

you ever notice the tripples usually open couple degrees after the main. maybe it better for the windows to open more gradual rather than all 3 at once ?

that aint cool brah. im nothing like zillafdreak saladtosser

you mad bro

everyones entitled to their choice of parts. who am i to say its the wrong decision. aparently they felt the oem stuff was sufficient for the task.

zilla fag this is just one of several better options. dont bother asking for details cuz ill tell ya to piss up a rope. got one even superior to this rod but im not gonna show it. no made in taiwan shit here. it just boils down to whether you wanna be a sheep and follow or find a different better way. peace out bro

never said i was a expert, just alot smarter than you, which aint saying much i guess. to have a run of one off pistons or rods made costs money. im not in the business of selling parts so having a batch of 25 units sitting in my garage is a bad idea. besides i dont want to tie up my money on something like that either, again because im not in the parts selling business nor do i ever want to be. got better things to do than peddle parts out of my garage to low ballers like you. oem rods are junk on anything besides a bone stock engine. got one in the garage that looks like a banana. not real impressed with hotrods either. it wouldnt be difficult to design a superior rod but i dont have to because better stronger stuff is alreay out there, your just to stupid to know what parts to use.

you didnt walk me through anything. i inquired about the pin location on that new piston beause i ASSUMED calvins cylinders were cast for the different length rods. if i had read the fine print on the cp site i would of realized the cylinderes ARENT cast for longer rods and thus i would have known the reason for your piston. im new to the banshee scene but this aint my first rodeo with 2stroke engines

if you think outside the box theres several rods that can be used. 99% of people are better off going with the cookie cutter 115 hotrod 4mil crank. its a hassle free drop in procedure. hek even a parts changer wouldnt have any trouble. for the other 1% like myself that want to do things alittle different, theres better stronger rods than the 115 hotrod run of the mill stuff.

not that you couldnt use a variety of different rods but im thinking 115 is the rod used most on the 4mil. looks like 795 wiseco is what you would use unless you want to put in a spacer plate

the chariot bowls look pretty good. packard sells some but i think theyre a bit smaller and the nipples go out the sides

klotz probly one the best out there

50:1 is for weak sauce engines. but beyond that why would anyone swap back and forth between ratios. help me understand here, 50:1 is good for riding in grammas back yard then 40:1 for racing your fmf piped 40hp turd at the dunes ? the extra .64oz of oil aint gonna win you any races . i dont get it but what ever

a big difference in my book is 8oz versus 3.2oz. but call it what you want

hahahha i know zilla is a parts changer. his efi project failed miserably. 1000 other people never had a problem making it work

heres what i think. anyone with a suzuki zilla name on a banshee site has to be a salad tossing queer. who would use a zilla name on any site for that matter. everyone knows them things were junk. .64oz more oil per gallon is hardly anything in my book. who goes around changing their mix between 50 and 40:1 anyways. sounds gay to me

says the guy thats never done a ounce of his own engine work . run along parts changer . i was trying to say the same thing rubber neck did but i couldnt type it correctly so it probly didnt make sense. all any of you geniouses had to say from the very begining was: this new piston compensates for the length difference when a 115 rod is used in a 110 cylinder. yet you clueless fuks didnt say nothin. probly because you dont know nothin. banshee HP i understand now. problem is i havent been around banshees that long so im not yet familiar with all the possible cylinder, rod, piston combinations. i think what caused confusion for me at the begining was i thought the cylinders were cast for each length of rod which had me wondering why you would need a different pin height. once i realized the cylinders werent cast for each different rod length then your new piston made sense

ok that makes perfect sense. thats what i was trying to say in my earlier posts but i probly made it sound confusing. so theres just one cylinder and its cast for a 110 rod. i understand now and hence the reason you made the new piston, to accomidate the 115 rod without needing a spacer plate they might not cast a 10cub for 120 or 125 rods. it shows them listed on the site however but im thinking theyll just send you a 10cub cast for 115 rod and then if you choose to use a longer 120 or 125 rod youll either have to use a spacer or a different piston with a higher pin