thomas h.

this is the instructions The quick change timing plate is pre-set at 0 degrees. To adjust simply loosen the two allen screws on either end. Adjust downward for advance ( + ) and upward for retard ( - ) . Each line equals 1 degree plus or minus. Remember to tighten the screws when finished. Your done! The average timing for a bike on race gas is 5 degrees advance you may push it a little further to 7 degrees, pump gas go to 2 degrees. If you have a stroker crank you will have to adjust it differently as the ( o ) mark will change. i do have the stroker crank sooo... what do I do, pump gas 91 4 mil 310 mains toomie t4 no air lid should I start @ +3 degrees?

good progress rubeat, I'm working on my dc conversion right now, got the battery mounted and stator floated, waiting on timing plate and skid plate. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=user_posts&mid=40305&search_filter_app[gallery]=1 latest pics

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=5552 put up some more pics

yes i cleaned up the harness(super easy to do), I put the CDI on a aluminum tab mounted to the stock location. also the coil is mounted to the rail that holds the gas tank, I bought from home depot all tread connector bolts ( basicaly a nut that is threaded from both ends ) make sure you mount the coil low so it clears the gas tank. message me if you want pics. test drive went good today, going to get the plastics to fiit better on the right side and also spend more time getting the pipes to look better, stingers look wall eyed. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=5552 two new pics.

porting is the ticket, then pipes to match porting. he is kidding about the boost bottle

thought i would document my jetting had 310rd main, o35 pilot, o5n7 middle clip alba recommend from my specs 310rd main, 32.5 pilot, dno 304 i think 4th down( I'll call them tommarow ) I have toomy t-4's, 4 mil crank, dual foam filter, stock heads and timing, cool head( cc unknown )

Long travel is tight wiring is done (not tested), plastics fit, chain done, plugs and caps done tonight flush brakes, install dyno kit from alba, clean air filter , and change oil, waiting on rear grab bar and rear skid plate if test ride goes well, DC conversion. pic's up tommarow. talked to nn2 a.k.a yfzrd and his project hybrid stalled, he want more upgrades and it got on to the back burner. he said his rode great with a +5 swing arm "great hole shots"

agreed about skeeter, any down sides on the yfz chassie swap?

oops i ment my 1st one had play between the crank and the connecting rods. if my crank was welded it would not have the 3/16 play

help me out some one named skeeter thinks i'm wasting my time money what ever, is there something i'm missing here? puting my fastest, funest cheaper to rebuild than a fourjoke engine into a lighter stronger better in most ways chassie is some how a waste of any thing. not to mention it did not cost my anything to build. rolling yfz 450 chassie with plastics and extras 300.00 1996 banshee part out 950.00 ( less engine and stuff) I did a work trade for a pro fabricator to make the engine mount up and intake and exhaust. sooo i'm i making some kind of down grade? i do understand that the pipes are compromised by cutting and changing them ( I'm ok with this) could some one tell me a down side to this setup ( I 95% dune )

My banshee motor is in a yfz 450 frame and I need to test fit the pipes. Rusty ok looking for cheaper price than a set of barly used

cool I never saw that video thanks bro. Airtitie and yfzrd was a big insperation, any dune time on the hybrids guys? any changes? pros or cons. still trimming plastics and making coil mounts over here.

new here and wanted to see progress pictures. Also how does your ride. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=5507 three pics here

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=5507 two more pictures

Ask about the crank, welded is what you want. My 1st one had about 3/16 play in the crank and the tech ( yakkey racing heard it when it revved) so I got lucky it didn't come apart. so 3/16 play means that the conneting rods could wiggle back and forth 3/16 of an inch(appartly that is alot). to check this you have to take off the carbs and reeds to look in side.

the shifter is too far away need about 1 inch taken off. thaks for the pipes comment starting to install the plastic(some trimming to do) and mount the cpu and need the do the dc converision to run the dc yfz 450 fan, waiting for some parts to arrive. first trip to glamis is may 6,7 2011, repaort back with info. mean while i'll post more when i hit more mile stones. taxes are taking alot of my time. oh btw my old banshee parted out for like 800+ dollars and the roller(semi roller) was like 500.00. p.s. i won't post the left side pipes untill i have more money to fab it in frame( out of frame right now, it works) may try some kind of drag pipe.

Banshee engine in a yfz 450 chassie. is their a better combo(except a dean sundal chassie) p.s. i dune @ glamis

mine turned out this way, little plastic trimming. toomie t4 pipes http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=5498 could not fit it to 50k so made a link.

I have them just make sure they are tight noproblems.

I ran the +3 +1 a-arms three time befor i upgraded my frame, they where setup for the yfz 450 shock and i really liked them but I parted out the banshee frame and noticed that all the heims where loose and a little rusty(out side storage). For my new frame i found a used set of leagers and wow the joints look twice as beef so i'm really glad to get away from them full flight.