SlowMoe

I'm trying to get the dome info from my builder. I don't think anything else is out of the ordinary. -Cool head pump gas domes -vf4 -34mm PJ -porting -+4mm crank -+4 timing It could be domes but my builder is pretty reputable around here and I doubt he would have totally dropped the ball on that. So. Sleeper, you've seen my dyno chart. Does it look to you like the power is falling off faster than normal on the top end? Maybe it's all in my head because the midrange is so strong Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because I've seen bikes with more power than mine, putting all the power to the ground without a lockup. This was more cost effective with less moving parts to malfunction. One day if I decide to go all out drag with 100+ hp I will do a lockup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't have a shitload of experience with different banshee pipes. T-5's, Paul turner hi revs, Pro circuit platinums and now CPI. Each one of these pipes had something the CPI pipes seem to be missing; overrev. When the CPI's hit, it's a very hard midrange hit that pulls decent RPM's, but prefer to be short shifted, unlike the aforementioned pipes, which don't mind revving to the moon before hitting the next gear. I guess my question is, is this typical of a CPI pipe, and if not I was wondering if my porting has something to do with. My numbers are 196 exhaust 124 transfer. The exhaust port is very wide, probably 75% of bore. The intake ports were not opened up much. No boyesen ports. Is there anything I can do porting wise to improve my overrev? Do boyesen ports help any? Will more transfer timing help it rev out further? Or is this just the nature of the pipes? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update: I went with the driveline performance "drag racing" clutch kit. Came with new smooth steels, new fibers and 6 stiff springs. Doesn't slip at all any more, pulls like a sumbitch all the way through. Thanks for all the advice guys. I think I made the right choice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh shit Ayesully I bought from someone else, I thought it was you I was texting the whole time. Wow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it from you or so I thought Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got everything I needed. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry can't see your number 3375808044 text me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need: -the 4 bolts that hold the bumper on -O-rings for expansion chamber to exhaust flange joint -Exhaust clamps (expansion chamber to silencer) Hoping to get them all from the same person. Please shoot me a PM if you can help a nigga out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After weighing my options, I ended up with the driveline drag racing clutch kit. I feel as though it would not be slipping if my clutch pack was up to par. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I think on most of these big name builders' dynos my motor would make 75 hp+. I too suspect poor quality clutch plates though. I've seen race gas servals with no lock up and no slip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah you can see it on the dyno plus when I'm riding the RPM's will just shoot up with a subsequent lack of acceleration Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I plan on doing a good bit of sand riding including the occasional drag race. I appreciate your advice I will give redline a call Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dirt sand and asphalt lol. So far I have only taken it on. The road and like every 3rd run it will slip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know what I need. I just don't think my clutch should be slipping at my power level if my clutch is good. I think I'm just gonna order new plates and the lock up from driveline. I think that will give me peace of mind Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm just confused honestly. Isn't there a clutch upgrade that doesn't involve a lock up? Like an extra plate or something? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think if that were the case Brantley would have caught it during assembly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And my clutch is stiffer than Ron Jeremy with a belly full of viagra Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's what I don't get. This is a 4 mill serval with no lockup and it ain't slipping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have CPI's in my 4 mill and they pull like crazy in the mid to top end but they do not have a lot of over-rev like my old Paul turner hi-revs and shearers do. So it depends on your style, if you don't like to rev to the moon and you want the power to come on reasonably soon CPI's are a good choice. But if you like to rev to the moon every time you shift and don't mind having like zero bottom to midrange power then go for shearers or other top end pipes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess we will see. I'm gonna go ahead and order a driveline lock out and report back. I was just surprised by how much power my DIY ported motor made, didn't think it would overwhelm the stiff ass springs I put in it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have your tranny modded? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I think I did a diy like 5 years ago. Fawk. Just literally paid someone to put it back together because I am too lazy these days. I'd hate to have to pull it back apart to cut the transmission. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do they affect shifting at all? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input. I should say they are typical numbers.... On HIS dyno.. Hear anything bad about the driveline lock up? That's the one I was considering. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk