30years

Dropping the asking price for the motor to $3200. Willing to accept offers if you'd want intakes and carbs and even pipes to go with the motor sale.

I haven't run at all this summer, or at all last summer. I have videos of me at the motorcycle club from the summer before that. Which is only a total of about 8 or 10 passes on this fresh motor.

Port Huron MI Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd really like to see the motor go as a whole, minus the intakes carbs and pipes.

please delete this post, thank you

I'd really like to see the motor go first before I start tearing apart the rest of the bike. stock titled frame nothing cut or modified, 10 mill cub on alky, full drag port by K&T, TZ and max load bearings, WCR extreme duneable override 2 thru 5, lock up, fast racing fibers and plates, chariot head w/ removable domes, still has off the shelf 23cc domes, full polished packard lectrons 40mm bored to 41.5w/dual power jets, v'3's, small bore shearers, dual pingle,dynatek coil This motor has very little time on it after sending cylinders to millennium technologies to be honed and re nikasiled. +12 swingarm, JJ&A play axle, 14 paddle staggered extremes on drag cuts, 76 RO, marvin shaw fronts Looking for $3400 for complete motor without pipes or carbs, if that goes, I would list prices on everything else. thank you

I'm trying to figure out how to delete the whole post so I can do it again properly.

Stock frame banshee.10 mil cub, setup on alkyFull drag port by K & THave the needles to run race or pump gas. Also have floats to run pump feed.+ 12 swingarm14 paddle staggered extreme haulers on drag cut blue labels, 76" ro (almost brand new) WCR extreme duneabale 2 thru 5 neutral downcentrifugal lock up full polished Packard Lectrons 40mm bored to 41.5mmChariot O ringed headV force 3'sDual pingleK&N pods with outerwearsChain tensionerHigh tensile strength non o-ring chainFAST racing clutch plates and fibersAftermarket tie rodsMarvin Shaw frontscurrently setup rigid rear with full wheelie bar which is easily removablesmall bore Shearers both out of left sideJJ&A play axledouglas blue label frontsdynatek iginitionI don't know why I should have to even explain any of this. Just look at the pictures. It's not a bunch of thrown together crap. lots of other extras to possibly go with, might be negotiable on other parts to go with a sale frame is titledburned a plug strap in winter of 2015 on Anchor Bay, had cylinders sent out to millennium technologies to be honed and nikasiled, new pistons, rings, and TZ and Max Load bearings along with freshen up Have had probably 8 track passes since new. I still don't have it set to it's potential.Didn't run it at all last summer except for running a little alky through it then purging, only to be stored in garage!have videos

Thanks for the replies. Had to stop what I was doing for a family emergency. I'll just grind the full c clip ends a bit to ensure that it fits when the cases go together. As far as the circlip. Your talking about the kicker gear in the end of the trans? Or the other assembly that has the spring and stuff on it? Because the circlip that holds the idler gear on was intact and in its place. Just had my tranny redone. Could it have come from one of the tranny shafts? Because like I said, it was on the tranny side if the motor and I find it hard to believe that that thing could have made it through the little return fluid hole in the cases to end up below the trans.

Also. Does anyone know where this circlip might have come from? It was in the tranny side if the motor laying in the bottom, obliviously chewed up.

I'm putting my motor together and for the life of me I can't figure out what the hell is going on. I received maxload and tz bearings. The maxload has a full c clip and tz didn't come with one at all! Also my motor doesn't have a grove for a c clip on maxload side??? WTF? Am I just supposed to take the c clip off the maxload and use it on the tz bearing? My old stator side crank bearing didn't have a grove cut in it for a c clip. ?

Where would you suggest having cylinders replated? I found a place called Kustom Kraft that charges $400 with pistons.

It was in the low 20's. I forgot to mention that the plug strap on that cylinder was gone after that last fatal run. The base gasket on that side looked fine. By the way. Anyone have really nice cylinders for sale?

Was hoping someone could help out in describing what has happened in the pictures. Was running in cold weather at the ice drags. I thought I had it tuned in for the cold. Is this typical of detonation? Something else?

Looking for a rear shaw 11" to 12" in length. 180lb rider +12 swing arm.

How much for the rear tires? Haven't seen an answer on that yet! And what size? Exactly?

Looking to trade my 12.5 eye to eye for some 11.5 eye to eye, maybe 11.

X2 on the vacuum tube between the two carbs.

Bearing part #93317-32231-00. And for future reference, just google oem yamaha parts dealers and you can look up ANY oem yamaha part from diagrams of all parts of the machine!

The boost bottle doesn't do much at all. To eliminate it you need the stock crossover tube, new intakes, or some sort of plug for the holes in the intakes.

Time to tear into it. Thanks man.

Can I just get a new second gear cut, or should I have a whole new trans cut?

I put in new all new fibers, steel's, and inner and outer clutch hubs and that didn't work. I rode the bike but had to take off in third. When I tried to take off in second, it would move about 3 feet and stop, like it was slipping out of gear. So now my question is... Can just one gear go bad? Would it have something to do with the shift forks, or something else?

Yes, neutral down, no first.

I'm almost positive that it was all put back together correctly. I just haven't had time to sit and stare at it all for too long. The plate was bent and warped. (no longer flat) I have the magnum hinson basket, had stock inner and outer hubs, and just got new inner and outer hubs from Fast and their clutch fibers and steel's. I'm gonna take it all apart and go over it all AGAIN and see if I just made a stupid mistake. If not, I'm hoping that the new hubs and plates will solve the problem. But... I just don't understand how the bike won't even move because of some clutch plates and hubs being out of spec! Hmmm? Thanks for the reply's, sorry I wasn't quick to respond, just been busy. I have all day today and tomorrow though.