30years

The ball and rod were fine and adjustment was good. Any other thoughts?

I have done the clutch a ton of times and I know that the one of the arrows on the pressure plate is supposed to line up with the mark on the inner hub, so it's not that. I'm off to check the ball and push rod.

I recently toasted the backer plate on my hinson clutch basket. I replaced it with a new stock one and new cushions. I put it all back together and the damn bike won't move in any gear. It's like the clutch just won't grab. So I put new fibers and steels in and that still didn't solve the problem. The clutch won't engage/grab to move the bike. It has a neutral down 2 thru 5 override if that helps. I heard about the bearing and clutch push rod seizing together. I'm pretty sure I checked for that when I had it all apart and the bearing came out just fine. I just got back from out of town and I'll be checking that tomorrow sometime but I wanted to see if I could get some good input or advice between now and then. THANKS!

ttt

For those who don't know, they are 2 inches wider 1 inch forward a-arms. They are in nice shape, just a few small chips in the powder coat near the spindle heims. Hardly any use, not more than 20hrs total ride time. Just selling because I'm switching back to stock. When you buy these from Full Flight, you don't get tie-rod ends, just the tie rod. These are ready to bolt on and ride. Just need your bolts and some cotter pins. $300 +shipping firm

Turns out that the plate on the back of the drive gear was bent all to s#@t as you can see in the pictures. When I took everything apart I noticed that there wasn't an ear bent over on the lock washer that keeps the clutch nut from backing off. I was wondering if that could have broken off and caused all my problems. The pucks in the basket are worn and need to be replaced. So I hope this sparks some input. Thanks guys!

The last time I rode my quad I was doing a few launches and ran into some problems. I started hearing clunking when taking off but it was just in 2nd gear when taking off then seemed to smooth out. I let it sit for a minute and just kinda looked everything over. I tried it one more time and it did the same thing. I stopped and then tried to inch my way to the trailer and the clutch would engage and then slip and didn't want to push the quad at all. The clutch lever seemed to be harder to pull also. The setup is a 10mil cub, 2 thru 5 override, lockup, hinson billet basket, aftermarket clutch plates and the rest of the clutch is stock. When I pulled the clutch apart this is what I saw. some metal shavings in the basket and some scoring on the back of the clutch boss. I bought this motor used and complete except for the hinson basket, which I installed. I haven't rode this setup much, but last summer when I did, I was hearing the same clunking noise when launching and I thought it might have been chain slap and skipping teeth on the sprokets so I got a chain tensioner. The next time I ran it, I didn't seem to hear the clunking, but now it's back. Any thoughts on what might be going on, or maybe some of you might have run into this same problem, input would be appreciated.

Thanks so much for everyone's input. I'll be doing some more researching and maybe I might receive some more input from here before I start spending money.

Oh, when ur talking about the WR crank, ur talking about the dirt bike crank. Right? Can that crank just be thrown right in? I would just need a certain piston right? Does CP or diamond offer a stock bore piston, or my options limited to the dirt bike piston. And, does the WR crank have the longer stroke to make it the true 450 like the 06 crank? I wanna keep it on pump gas, but I want as much power as I can get for my money. I decided I shouldn't spend money on a whole new cylinder and whatever else I would end up buying before I was done, so I kinda set a budget for myself. I'm looking to just do the new crank and piston. My cylinder is surprisingly good shape, still showing cross hatching, so a good hone through that and I should be good. I thought about porting the head, and maybe aftermarket cams, but haven't priced that stuff yet.

So, does the 06 crank make it a true 450 without any other mods? I can just throw the 06 crank in? Is it crank works that makes the WR crank?

What I wanted to do is keep it mostly stock, but everyone wants more power. Right? I have a 10 mil cub for drag. I would drag the yfz at the local track for fun, but I'm not trying to go all out, full drag setup with it, I also want a reliable, get on it and go type of trail/play quad. So, with that said. ?

So I have never rebuilt a four stroke before, strictly two strokes. I have the motor out and cases split. What I don''t know is if the stock crank is rebuildable or not? I had connecting rod failure before I had the chance to have the oil mod done, by the way I have an early 04 model. I thought about buying a +4 stroke crank but don't know what is involved, what is needed? Run thicker base gasket? Stock piston? Any help and knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Looking for something around 22x11x8. Can call or text as well. 810-650-7470

Anyone???

I don't think I like the look of an arched swinger.

Looking for 22 by 11 by 8 12 paddle haulers or extremes. Might want something similar, open to suggestions. I have a stock frame 10mil cub. Also looking for a longer swinger, I have a +8 right now, looking for a +12, and also depending on what swinger I purchase, might also need a carrier for stock style axle. Also looking for Marvin shaw fronts, around 12 to 13 inches long. Might need a rear shaw as well. Thanks. Aaron

come n get what's left!

Ttt

Still have a few items for sale, anything not for sale has been marked SOLD! Stock head is in great shape, no pitting, can send more pictures via text. Thanks -Aaron

Try

It's sold. I bought it.

Bump

drag port

Stock stroke cylinders.

Bump it up. Obo deals on pipes. Both are great sets of pipes.