Starwriter

What ball are you talking about? Here is a pic of the float bowl ball. It's on the bottom of the right carb in the pic. (Left carb on the bike) Well, that didn't work. Try clicking on this link. http://www.rb-designs.com/Banshee%20carb%2001.jpg

Did you forget the choke tube between the carbs?

You might see if this guy has a title. Not too bad of a deal on a cheap Banshee with some aftermarket goodies. http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/mcy/3416696858.html

Cool, glad you got it sorted out. So, if you've done a bunch of reading, you know about the choke tube between the carbs and the left float bowl that has the brass ball pressed into the outside, right?

Uh, no, you're not getting it. The "cutaway" is shown below. It should be towards the air filter. Both guide pin grooves go towards the middle, so if you swap them side for side, and line up the pin, you end up with the cutaway towards the motor.

Make sure the cutaway on the bottom of the slide is facing the air filter. If you have them swapped side to side, the cutaway will be towards the motor when you line up the slide pin in the slot.

They appear to be stock width, +2 forward. Not having the lowers is kind of like having 1 walkie talkie.

So, he rode a bone stock bike 3,858 miles at the track? It doesn't matter to me, but that's the fishiest story I have heard today. Sounds to me more like he financed it, never paid it off, and the finance company went out of business. None of my business. Just my thoughts. Good luck with your parts sales.

Yep, very commonly made mistake. The pressure plate has 3 arrows on it. Line 1 of them up with the dimple in the edge of the inner hub. Obviously, you can't see the dimple after you put the pressure plate on. The pressure plate will go on correctly 3 different ways. The other 3 ways, it won't go on far enough to mesh with the inner hub. And what you're gonna try with the wheels in the air and running it will not be good for your new clutch.

Interesting design on the spacer tube. Don't know if it's good or bad, but it's kind of cool. If it's stainless bolts and stainless tube, make sure you use Never-seize on the bolts.

Even the little respected Blaster comes from the factory with enough shift shaft travel, both up and down, to allow enough travel for a full positive shift into each gear. That's all I'm going to say about that. It's obvious that the whole Banshee (RZ350) transmission was designed by a crack head. "Hey, let's do 3 dogs into 7. Oh, wait, that won't work. OK, how about 3 into 6? Now, pass me back the crack pipe."

If you're anywhere near fond du lac, you should check this one out. You're never gonna find anything this good for this cheap. http://greenbay.craigslist.org/rvs/3387326974.html

Shaft wear? WTF? FAST does it to brand new shafts.

Get out your multimeter and start checking resistance. Yellow to yellow, yellow to ground, etc.

Wow, this thread has been a great source of amusement. The seller above is a scammer. He's trying to pass off a stock cylindered, boost bottled, Amp link equipped, stock swingarmed bike as a 421 cub.

This seller just raised the bar on stupid to a whole new level. "this quad it is retarted fast with top speed over 150 trade for super nice slower banshee" http://cincinnati.cr...3365790194.html This guy's a little bit of an idiot, and it's an old ad, but it's worth looking into. http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/3370403286.html

I would definitely do the mod. The stock design is that when you shift, you are only moving the shift drum just past the peak of the star. The roller on the downhill side of the ramp completes the shift. Cheeseball!!! Grind the slot in the shift shaft at the location that contacts the eccentric bolt. Grind out just enough to allow it to travel enough to rotate the drum all the way into the next gear. (The roller goes all the way into the valley. Roughly about 1/8" out of each side of the slot.) Be carefull not to grind too much to where the roller starts going up the next ramp. Adjust your eccentric before you start.

I've put it back together right side up so that you don't have to guess where the shift forks are gonna go. Assemble the trans in the lower case, then put a ratchet strap from the crank over the head, cross between the spark plugs and down to the other end of the crank. Then set the upper case half down onto the lower. Of coarse, you're gonna want to put in new crank seals first.

Actually, I live in Oregon and have gotten the best deals in Washington. I have come to the realization that the farther from the dunes that you look, the better the deals you find. I just don't need another Banshee right now.

You can play AC/DC with the stock stator as long as you have black rear plastics.

Man, I dig the clear for a couple reasons. With an aluminum tank and a polished radiator, would look bitchin'. Or, you could paint the inside, like they do with RC cars and have a super shiny, durable look.

Sub box in a 6 pack rack FTW.

This looks like a good deal for someone in Washington. It's dumb that somebody put T6 pipes on a 4mill, but otherwise it looks good. http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/mcy/3396616934.html

Man, that sucks. I like the looks and concept of the Wicked head with the external bolts, but I don't want to have to deal with oddball domes all the time.