sprinklerman

If .030" is going to cause "premature bearing wear" I'd hate to see what out of round tires might do to a carrier. Also, you didn't check the axle in V Blocks. That's the only accurate way to do it. Why be so worried about .030" , but then not check it accurately? Your carrier bearings, even if brand new, could allow that much movement. Edit: for the record, I wouldn't want a bent axle either, I sympathize for you in that regard. But if I buy a used part that passes visual inspection, that's all I expect of a seller. (Example: crankshaft looks, sounds good, but ends up out of true)

Can you even feel .030" while riding it?That's little more than a sparkplug gap.

2 month warranty on used parts FTW!

TTt

Carb sync tool for sale Same kind FAST sells. Has both adapters and box. Cheapest I saw on ebay was 40.00

Yes. I think so . [emoji14]

Thanks man! Yes.

It's not the nut-behind-the-wheel...that's for sure.

Little more TnT. Banshee TnT3: http://youtu.be/ugZi71sv_-w

Bought complete motor from Abe, sight unseen. Motor as described, packaged properly. Would buy from again

It actually dissolves the spooge and especially any of that powdery residue that sometimes forms.

WD40 does good too. Seems to eat the spooge really well.

100ll is MON rated at 99.something. might as well call it 100. If you run it slightly rich , it's rated up to 130 octane. So if you want to play it safe at 100 octane , you're VERY safe. Independent testing shows it almost exactly the same as C12. minus an additive that helps with vapor lock and helps cold starting. It has almost the exact same amount of lead as C12 too.

Haha. The party van is semi-retired now.

Still have top case only? If so, I can get it for half that.

Updated pix . Incase someone prefers machined aluminum look.

Nobody said it DIDNT pull toward the PTO side. Just that it was strange that the stator side appears to have the great majority of rubbing. Maybe it should have be clarified as the R/H side of the stator side of the case. Looking at the pictures better (not in the sun) you can definitely see it pulled over hard to the right and the clip grooves look to be in good shape. It looks like the center pin pulled apart too. OP probably has very little usable parts left over out of the deal unfortunately. Bad deal.

Bumpskies

Could be. I don't know. It's a messed up deal no matter how you slice it.I'm just wondering if the crank didn't already have an issue ...like that un- welded pin not having the proper interference fit, and that's why it separated where it did.

^^^Not in 10 passes. Of probably sub 5 seconds each. But hey, it has rubbed , no doubt. I'm still trying to wrap my head around why it pulled the stator side without touching the side that is doing the pulling.

That would be mighty fine of you.I see the scrubbing. I doubt it's wore that face down past the weld and heat marks. I'm betting that it wasn't welded there. IF << it's rubbed any significant metal and aluminum off, I'd be leery of reusing that crank anyway. .so it's kind of a moot point. Basically I think the OP needs to work something out with tyson. I find It odd that the side MOST likely to pull over didn't. ..but the opposite side seems to have. Strange. HotRods crank failure in general?

This. I see rubbing indicated on the center of the crank, but nothing on the pto side. (Which is directly attached to the gear and bearing in question BTW).

Nobody is blaming you, you obviously have some unfortunate issue going on. Those pictures can't tell the whole story though. It sucks for you, no doubt. I'm just saying there's usually 3 sides to every story. Your side, their side, and the truth. This may have been a genuine flubb-up. Hope you get proper resolution, whatever that may be.

So you think an aluminum case will wear the whole face of the crank Web until the weld is literally worn away? 1/32" deep probably?