sprinklerman

Yea, i understand that. But since you are having to bolt on the leak tester, why not test everything you can at the same time? It only makes sense to do it the way Thrill and 99% of people and professional builders show to do it. Just checking it all at once and be done with it.

Wow,,,cant believe i missed that. Thanks man! That reminds me...while i have this thing tore down, i need to ship you those Elkas to rebuild. Will be in touch soon.

That kit is nice,but all i need is the bearing. No need to spend the extra 40.00 for parts that'll just sit on the shelf. I already have the other parts.

Pm'd on round carrrier.

Hey. Thought i'd rebuild my swinger while i have everything apart for paint..I found these bearings on ebay. I did some research but only found 1 post that mentioned a bearing number. None of my local parts stores/dealers can help me out. Anybody know if this is the right bearing number? > http://compare.ebay.com/like/360216222612?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&rvr_id=207251179207&crlp=1_263602_309572&UA=WVF%3F&GUID=e9534cfc12d0a06c1b501820fff03936&itemid=360216222612&ff4=263602_309572 Thanks

How would you know if your intake boots were leaking if you did it that way? Thrill has the right idea with what he's doing for sure. I do them like this but both ways accomplish the same thing > http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=139586

Pm'd

They are complete and utter JUNK,,do yourself a favor and get rid of it immediately!!! In fact i'll do you a favor and take it off your hands free of charge...hit me up! I've only seen one run,but i dont know what stroke it was,,,that was awhile ago,but it was a sweet setup at the time. I'm not sure it'll run,without major work,wit hsome of the newer cylinders. If your talking strictly drags that is.

Man,, that is so slick! I've been wondering about F.I for the Banshee since i first had one in the 90's... Didnt Stalworth or Gigot do a F.I setup several years ago? Regardless, keep the progress pix coming for sure!

Those gouges by the transfer look like someone had the shaky-hands when they were porting the cylinder maybe?

Count me in. I'm always interested in custom fabricated stuff. I like it when people think outside the box.

Excellent post , Dirty. Just to add to it a bit, to check your squish clearance, a common method is to use some hollow solder down through the spark plug hole. As you turn the engine over by hand,,SLOWLY,,the piston compresses the solder piece and that end of the solder is measured to get your squish clearance. Make sure the solder piece goes all the way to the edge of the cylinder. Also make sure the solder is running the same way as the pistons wrist pin so that the piston wont rock and give a false reading. I prefer to use 2 pieces of solder at the same time, facing away from each other so that the piston doesn't rock.

I believe its 16mm. You tilt the carb on its side to measure from the carb body (where the gasket would go if it had one) and make sure the metal tang is just touching the needle & seat (without compressing it) while measuring to the bottom of the float. http://scootrs.com/tech.cfm?tip=float

Here's what i use to do my leakdown tests > This works on 2-1 intakes OR 2-2 setups, you would just need another cap to plug the other side if its a dual carb setup. I have about 12.00 in this setup and it uses less fittings than i've seen in some. 1"x3/4"mpt Male adapter> this goes into the intake boot. I grind off the raised lettering just in case it might make a leak. The Male adapter goes into this> It has both fitting ( gauge & valve) already installed. About$ 5.00 at plumbing supply. Its a water line pressure tester. Bicycle air pump. Gauge installed Exhaust plugged with rubber caps $1.55 each Soap bubbles sprayed everywhere

Put me down as a satisfied buyer. Parts as described ,well packed so we didnt have shipping damage, was shipped promptly.

Bansheemandan bought my wifes V-2's and payed within minutes from receiving my Paypal invoice. Ultra fast payer. Would do business again.

Heads up, i bought some parts from theeechozen1 and he went up and beyond what was required in supplying some missing hardware,,,without being asked. Good seller,would do business again.

Thats exactly why i use this one > http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-4025 It seals against the face side of the carb bell. I know i've posted a few times lately about this particular part,but i really like it and i have no stocks in Edelbrock either! hehe

This vid has the tors removal kit in it,but it'll help t hem to see the general process. Doing it by eye will only get hem so close. This is the tool i prefer > http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-4025 It is easy to use and very accurate.

Here's the carb sync tool i use > http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-4025 Its about 25.00 and very accurate. Made out of alum,not plastic ,so its pretty tough. Also a lot easier to use than the Motion Pro ones I've seen before. Hope it helps.

If your bike is just a basic "bolt on" bike, i'd go with Toomey T-5's . If you have an aftermarket cylinder and all the things that go with that, I'd do some Snipers. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=138495

Looking to buy a Black radiator shroud. Only looking for FACTORY black ones,not painted. Also interested in a + 4" swinger. Would prefer a round carrier,but might consider a factory style. Also looking for a SINGLE 33-35mm Keihin carb for my wifes 2-1. Thanks!

Shipped USPS Priority Mail.

I'd still do a quick spray with some carb cleaner while its running around where the carb mates to the boot. You cant check that connection via a leakdown test. Plus it only takes a second to do. It eliminates that being a possible problem real easy.

Thanks! Payment received . Will go out 1st thing tomorrow.