He's A Shee

Oh I know just what I'm doing this winter! Do you need to change the master cylinder or the rotor at all?

My old 400 with: 23x7-10 Front 22x12 - 9 Rear My banshee with 23x7-10 Front 20x10-9

Getting tires soon here. I've decided go go with the ITP GNCC's. I realize they're not the longest lasting tire, but they will suit my needs. I ride mostly woods trails, some hillclimbing (at times on shale), and some mx. I definitely want to get 21x11's in the back. Old bike had 22x12 and they were AWESOME in the woods, but rolled way too much for me. 20's are too small for what I do, need as much rear clearance as possible. 21's are the perfect medium, I think. The question I have is should I go with 21x7 fronts, or 22x7 fronts? It seems logical that it should be 22/21 and 21/20 (front/rear), but I'm thinking that if I run 21/21 it might be benefical on hills by keeping my front end lower. I really have no experience with tire purchases. Haven't needed new tires yet on really any bikes I've had. Oh by the way, right now I'm running 23/20's. It rides great on the MX track. Haven't gotten to the trails, or the hills with it like this though.. Any imput? Suggestions?

Search " max mekker " in google. It has a complete service manual for most high performance bikes. I think it might actually be the factory service manual! Completely free, its just a real large file.

Very interesting method. Never thought of doing it backwards! I'm eager to try that, now just gotta find a big syringe!

Having a bit of spongy-ness makes sence so you aren't locking them up, but mine are so spongy that if i pull hard enough I can pull the lever back to the grip! Again I bled the lines equally over and over and over. I was just out in the garage (at 8am) thinking about it, I double checked that no lines were kinked or anything. I'm not saying that I want my brakes to feel just like a brand new 450's, I just want to have some lever!

Don't quote me on this, but typically "clutch fading" is when your clutch starts to feel weak after riding hard on it. Similar to brake fade, your brakes grab real well when they are a cool to medium temperature, but when you lay into them over and over again, they begin to have less grab because of the heat buildup. Such as when your riding downhill for a good period of time. The clutch assembly is similar to a brake, therefor it creates immense amounts of heat especially when used freqently. If you think your experiencing this, first I'd try using a different/higher quality case oil. Or your clutch's are near the end of their usable life.

I suppose you could be right. I wish mine felt like my buddies yfz450's!!!!! Right there right now! What mods can be done? Can you do a swap to the yfz brakes without changing spindles?

Getting frustrated with my front brakes. Replaced the pads, rebuilt the cylinders, and rebuilt the master cylinder. I'm confident that I put the plunger in the master cylinder correctly, I know this can really cause problems. I've bleed what seems like a gallon of fluid equally between sides, also tried gravity bleeding. Also have lots of grease on the pins, lots of rotor, and correct level of fluid in the resivor. I still can't achieve that right there, tight feelling on the lever. Now they do work quite well, but they are still spongy. The only thing that I haven't invested is bradied lines. Will rubber lines really make them that spongy? Granted they are 10 years old, but still in great asthetic condition. Anything I'm missing here?? I've done many brake jobs on cars/trucks, including new master cylinders, lines, bleeding, pads/shoes, and rotors/drums. All of my automotive brake jobs end up fantastic! I feel like a novice working on this simple system because it doesn't feel like anything is working! I know somone is going to say "get bradied lines", but I'd like to see if I'm just stupid before I go and make an unnessicary investment.

Even if it is a reputable seller, is it possible to transfer titles when your not face to face?

Last week I tweaked my frame real bad when a hill climb at Wellsville went wrong. Handlebars, Rear Axle, and Frame are bent bad. Somehow managed to get back to camp! There are a lot of frames for sale on e-bay but I'm concerned with the title issue. If I buy one off e-bay, will they be able to transfer the title? Has anyone bought a bike or frame off e-bay and had any title problems? Most people wouldn't care about the title, but I ride some places that require insurance, tags, and registration. Any insight on this?

Hey sorry to get onto your thread, but I really didn't want to start a new one just for one stupid question. I just got a 2000 'shee, New to the forum! Used to have a '87 back in the day So anyways, my bike is .30 over, K&N airfilter, snorkel off, with gnarly @ turbine core II's. Elevation is 1130.45 above sea level What should the jetting be at? I bought it the way it is so I don't know if the guy ever jetted it or not. Just want to see if whats in there is close to what it should be. Thanks!!